kawasaki KX 250 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support - Page 4

"Learn to like smoke for awhile. Smell the aroma". Pardon the humor. I couldn't resist. Chances are there is oil built up in the crankcase. It is going to take some time for the oil to dissipate. How long? I don't know. It all depends on how much is in there. Cleaning the muffler is no help since the oil burning is coming from the crank not the muffler. If you are careful, and keep a vigilant eye, you could cut the gas/oil mix in half to 64 to 1 instead of the normal 32 to 1. That would mean only 2 ounces of oil per gallon instead of the normal 4 ounces. Let the crank add the rest. This will help burn the crank oil excess, but BE CAREFUL. When the crank drys up you had best not ride until more oil is added to the gas.

A “very helpful” rating for this answer? Thanks!

will it free roll with the clutch pulled in ? If no adjust your clutch its dragging and mis aligned , if yes , your shift linkage needs to be adjusted

Obviously you haven't got a manual so the simplest solution would be to ring your nearest kawasaki dealer/or pop in and ask the mechanic to consult his workshop manual. Some will know off the top of their heads as they do it week in week out.

Technicaly it is designated " Lever-comp-change shaft ". Ask the parts counter for that and they will kinda look at you funny. Generally they are called a " shift shaft ". Your Kawasaki dealer should have one or you can go online to Babbitt's and get one there. www.babbittsonline.com

Remove the carburator to gain access. Unbolt the reed block from the back (rear) of the cylinder. You can replce the reed block assembly, or if you just got the reed pedals, they attatch with small screws. Use blue loc-tite #242 on the reed pedal screws so they don't loosen up. You will need to replace the gasket (s) with new ones and torque the cage bolts to spec. (Pay close attention when you remove it, so you know how it is re-assembled.)

If you can kick it over, it's not siezed. Or it did seize and broke the connecting rod. If it's a 2-stroke, removing the cylinder head and inspecting it should be relatively easy. if it's a 4-stroke, I would recommend the factory repair manual before doing any disassembly. Good luck!

The owners manual provided with the bike has all the info required to do the top end on this motor. Be advised that this motor has a chrome cylinder that cannot be overbored to clean up damage or wear. There are a number of sources to send this cylinder into to be re-chromed, and they will provide you with piston and gaskets as a complete package as well. It is a fairly simple job if you have the book, you should be able to find that online to download at little cost if you don't have it.

check/clean the carburator, adjust the air screw... lack of fuel, causing the the engine to backfire when you close the throttle... adjust idle...

Just remove the right side cover to expose the kick start mechanism. Remove the bolt on the end of the shaft, tow washers and guide then the spring. It has been awhile since I worked on the KX 250, but as I recall, the clutch does not need to be removed in the process of replacing the spring. I could be wrong on that. Below is the kick mechanism on your bike. Please rate my answer. Thanks.

it sounds like the float,in the carb is stuck,,so not stopping fuel as it fills.....give it a tap on the bottom of the carb if no joy take off and clean,,,

There should be a allen key plug to take out of the caliper then once this is out there will be another allen key head behind the plug to undo (this is the pin) just undo, take out and the pads should be able to be removed.
Pay close attention to the direction pads come out and any spacers between the pads and brake piston as you want them all back in exactly the same with the new pads they stop the pads from rattling around when riding
good luck regards Jamie

Could you let us know what model it is as many different Kawasaki's and all take different volumes of oil

Replace the sleeve is the only option - I think there would not be enough cylinder wall left if you rebored it as it is a sleeved cylinder it relys on the sleeve for extra wall thickness and strength you can rehone the sleeve if it is not too badly scratched you can get honing tools around $80 ish? they fit into cordless drill

Please check your jetting ( main & pilot ). Are they work. Check also your floating valve for stuck. A stuck floating valve will not allow the fuel flow.

Regards

A couple of possibilities- - Float is corroded and not floating - Valve either gummed up or worn and stuck - Float level not properly set
Typical float valves
Typical floats

does it have spark and are the rings in right aliment and is the gas on i have made that mistake

Change your oil immediately - replacing with the proper quantity and quality lubricant recommended by Kawasaki.

The clutch fluid may need filling up and replacing. If the lever and cabling are ok it could also be an issue with the mechanical parts. I am thinking on the tension of the clutch as it is engaged on the gear. You may have to inspect the inside as the cable is not transferring force to relieve the clutch. Check for linkages that may have come off.

The reason the system will not pump fluid is because there is air in the master cylinder pump. Typically, air trapped in the master cylinder is the cause of the lack of pressure. Cover your paint and plastic first with a plastic bag and then with a towel in case of spillage. Now loosen the banjo bolt on the master cylinder just enough to let allow fluid to leak out when you pump the master cylinder. Pump the master cylinder until you get a big push of DOT 3/4 brake fluid at the banjo bolt(usually 2 or 3 pumps). Now tighten the banjo bolt and bleed the system (slave cylinder) to get the rest of the air out. Be careful to keep DOT 3/4 brake fluid in the reservoir. Do not pump it dry, if you **** air into the master cylinder you will have to start all over again.

603 ml per fork