kawasaki KX 125 - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues - Page 9

Go to local motorcycle shop or try online.

i hope you are talking about tire tubes, check the rim for rough spots, aluminium rims will corrode have sharp edges, use emery cloth on the inside of the rim to remove any burrs, check the spoke cover rubber boot for tears , and inflate the tire to max pressure , it may be slipping on the rim and tearing the valve stem

Do you have a rim strip to protect the tube from the spokes? Is the rim damaged from tire irons or a sharp burr where the tube might contact it? A broken or missing spoke? Did you take a rag and wipe the inside of the tire to look for sharp objects? After the rag did you feel around with your hand ? You do have to be very careful not to fold over the tube or pinch the tube with the tire iron, the tire bead, or the rim lock.Maybe you are running to low of an air pressure for the type of riding (jumping) you are doing. Maybe the brand of tube you are using is too light of a duty for off road riding.You may want to check into the heavy duty tubes available for off road use.

change the plug then drain the carb and ck compression and that will tell u the story

That's specifically made for marine use. I'd steer clear. Try the Mobil 1 4T racing, if you want a good oil.

sounds like you need to rejet the carb..

u might need a new top end

muffler bearings definately

ur batt is failin-test it for 12v hold--voltage regulator may be at fault also

anytime u deal with bottom end work it takes precision-did u open case up?

shifter drum

if your talking about fuel mix oil the best is either amsoil or red line fully synthetic oil is the best out there(not cheep though)...if your talking about engine oil (wet clutch)i think bel-ray is the best..(thats what i have had best luck and less breakdowns with)

32:1--40:1 any less than 40:1 And you take risk of damaging engine(crank and top end),Any more than 32:1 and it will smoke real bad and foul spark plugs alot.....

hopefully u put the rite size rings n piston in--du u hav proper libricant in case-what that model calls for--how is the cam chain tensioner @ correct value--du u have a shop book like clymer etc

Sounds serious, but good that you have compression. Can you remove the head? If yes, you can get a look at the cylinder walls.
Hard to diagnose without disassembly.

If you have spark but putting gas down the spark plug hole doesn't even seem to allow the engine to fire up for a few seconds, then you might have a timing problem.

Compression, if you feel it or measure it with a gauge, is usually not the problem on these motorcycles.

Look for timing.

32 to 1. That means 4 ounces of engine oil per gallon of gas. Be sure to use 2 stroke ENGINE oil, not standard Motor oil. Please rate my answer. Thanks.

You can go to the following website and see every part on your bike as an exploded view. Please rate my answer. Thanks.
www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrand/default.aspx

set it between 18 and 20 lbs do this on cold settings

WOW, I haven't ran into this for decades. Well, I would bet, the circlip that keeps the shift shaft into place is missing, the bike fall hard on the left side sometime? Well, if the clip is missing, the shaft can move to the right and there is a lever with a hooked arm that rides upon a shift drum (all trail bikes have similar system) and moving the shift lever, moves the hooked arm over the drum, causing a shift in gears. If the shaft is loose, the hooked arm will eventually come off the drum. Not sure, but it's probably under the r/s cover. This is a repair I did a lot in jr.high school for my friends. Not too hard.