kawasaki KX 125 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support - Page 9

HI FIRST YOU WILL HAVE TO REMOVE THE ENGINE FROM THE FRAME, DRAIN THE GEARBOX OIL OUT, YOU WILL ALSO NEED A FLYWHEEL PULLER THIS IS A SPECIAL TOOL, DAMAGE CAN OCCURE AT GREAT EXPENSE IF YOU DONT USE CORRECT TOOLS, COMPLETLY DISMANTLE THE ENGINE AND GEARBOX, CAREFULLY EXAMINE ALL INTERNALLS AND SEEK REPLACMENT PARTS, A DELICATE JOB REQUIRES FINESS AND COMPETENCE

175mililitars per leg!

sounds like a siezure, tear down the top end and inspect it!

hopefully its just the piston and not the crankshaft.

remove the piston and see if the rod has nice smooth movement, and no up and down movement on the big-end bearing

Now, you need to find out what caused the siezure, so you dont sieze it again after its rebuilt

It just need new oil seals, but make sure that you don't put to much oil
back in, or it will be very hard and could blow the seals again,
hope this helps

Make sure the choke is fully disengaged while riding. Is it two stroke? If so, make sure fuel/oil mixture is not too rich. If four stroke, try a colder plug. If four stroke, make sure valves are adjusted properly.

Unhook both ends of your clutch cable if it is binding at all replace it. If the lever on the motor does not go all the way back to riding position (disengaged clutch position). You may have to disassemble the motor to check for a broken spring or damaged clutch engagement mechanism.

.7 liters or 700 cc's

is the compression good on your engine have you checked and cleaned the carb out also are you running the right pre mix ratio about 32:1 which is about 156 ml oil to 5 litres of petrol

See: https://www.cyclepedia.com/1988-2004-kawasaki-kx60-kdx80-kx80-kx100-online-manual/

The KX 125 is a two stroke and is lubricated with the fuel.
A good quality synthetic two stroke oil will be best in my view as the engine is used by many manufacturers including Aprillia in their RS 125 recomend it. Halfords do a good few types. It has a pump that meters the oil into the float chamber of the carbourettor, very cunning! Unlike my 1956 Lambretta LD150 that used 18 to 1 petrol to oil mixed as it goes into the fuel tank. Yours uses about 45 to 1.

Remember horizontal split or vertical split your cases are glued together so they do not leak oil. ALSO, the Japanese are notorious for hiding a bolt some where that has to be removed before the separation can take place . Make sure anything you can take off is off and look carefully. You may want to go to a site like bikebandit.com or babbitsonline.com. There a blow pictures of your motor there. They will show you all the parts and what you can not see to help you determine if you have missed a bolt some where. Remember to tap or pry gently at different points on the case so you do not damage the case halves. Once you get one area loosened you should be able to work your way around to loosen up the rest. Remember you are also fighting with alignment pins. Work carefully and good luck.

Connect the the + to the kill switch, and - to the CDI module.

HI FIRST OFF CLAMP THE BRAKE HOSE CLOSE TO THE MASTER CILINDER AS YOU CAN IF YOU HAVE RUBBER BRAKE LINES, YOU CANT DO THIS IF YOU HAVE BRAIDED OR SIM HOSES.
WITH THE CLAMP ON YOU SHOULD HAVE A GOOD SOLID PEDAL, IF THIS IS THE CASE,, UNDO THE BLEED NIPPLE ON THE REAR CALIPER, USE A PIPE TO CATCH THE FLUID, WHILE PUSHING DOWN ON THE PEDAL, GENTLY RELEASE THE PRESURE OF THE CLAMP, NOT ALL THE WAY THIS WILL ALOW YOU TO FORCE THE FLUID PAST THE CLAMP, BEFORE YOU ALOW THE PEDAL TO RETURN RE APPLY THE PRESURE ON THE CLAMP, REPEAT THIS SEVERAL TIMES TILL THE FLUID STARTS CUMING OUT OF THE NIPPLE, THEN TIGHTEN THE NIPPLE REMOVE THE CLAMP AND PROCEED TO BLEED IN THE NORMAL WAY TO REMOVE ANY FURTHER AIR WHICH MAY BE IN THE SYSTEM,

I would use a motorcycle gearbox oil weight 10/40 Hope this is what you needed.
Deke

if your still fouling plugs then you still need to go with smaller # on main jet...are you spooging allot out of pipe and muffler? then your to rich still,smaller jet size!!!! 32:1 is a good mix ratio

if your fouling plugs then either your fuel/mix ratio is off ( should be mixing 32:1 ) (or) your bike is running to rich( getting to much fuel to engine) which means you need to rejet the carb....example:( if you have a #50 jet,you need a #48 or 49) to install a new jet, #1.)remove carb,#2.)remove the bowl(4-screws),you will see the jet and #3.)unscrew jet and replace with smaller # ( number is stamped on the jet.) you can get jets from local motorcycle dealer( but they will probably have to order them). or go online to bikebandit.com enter your bikes year,make,model,ect.and just order from them........

That will depend on what model motorcycle you have.
D.

Go to local motorcycle shop or try online.

i hope you are talking about tire tubes, check the rim for rough spots, aluminium rims will corrode have sharp edges, use emery cloth on the inside of the rim to remove any burrs, check the spoke cover rubber boot for tears , and inflate the tire to max pressure , it may be slipping on the rim and tearing the valve stem

Do you have a rim strip to protect the tube from the spokes? Is the rim damaged from tire irons or a sharp burr where the tube might contact it? A broken or missing spoke? Did you take a rag and wipe the inside of the tire to look for sharp objects? After the rag did you feel around with your hand ? You do have to be very careful not to fold over the tube or pinch the tube with the tire iron, the tire bead, or the rim lock.Maybe you are running to low of an air pressure for the type of riding (jumping) you are doing. Maybe the brand of tube you are using is too light of a duty for off road riding.You may want to check into the heavy duty tubes available for off road use.