kawasaki KX 125 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support - Page 8

Perhaps you mean brake disc not sprocket..
no you will have problems mounting the brakes

If the float is stuck or the valve is not sealing correctly, petrol will flood the engine.

700cc or 0.7 litres of oil

run 14 psi on hard pack and in dirt with a lot of traction. I run 12 when its a little bit slippery, and 9-10 when it is greasy.

i know it says 30 psi on there tyre but thats to much

John

There are 2 circlips (1 on either side that need to be removed first. Then you can either use the special tool available in most tool shops or a bolt and 2 washers and piece of pipe, one washer must be smaller than the outside diameter of the gudgeon pin and the other must be bigger than the pipe. The pipe must have an inside diameter that allows the gudgoen to be pulled through it. You slide the bolt through the large washer then the pipe and then the gudgeon pin hole, then the small washer and then put a nut on the bolt that is slightly smaller thann the washer so it doesn't score the piston as you wind it and the gudgeon pin through the piston and into the pipe.

Take the top off the master cylinder and slacken the bleed nipples on the slaves.
The frot should self drain and whilst that is happening, press up and down on the rear brake whilst topping up the level. When enough has gone through, tightnen the rear slave bleed nipple finger tight so as to allow fluid through under pressure and keep going until all air has gone and tighten the nipple. Top up the master cylinder and put the cover back on.
Top up the front master and tighten the slave nipple enough to let, under pressure, the fluid to flow. Ensure the air has been expelled and tighten the nipple. Top up the master cylinder and replace the cover.

dont think its a fluid issue. more like a clutch adjustment either at lever or in mid section of cable if that doesnt fix you might have to replace either clutch cable or clutch disks

sounds like the inner seal of water pump is bad and should be replaced. really not that hard to fix

the fuel to oil ratio is 32. to 1

probably not the timing.
what happened when it stopped?
maybe the carb has flooded the crankcase, or something more serious with the piston and rings.
does it kick over with the plug out( make sure the plug is in the plug cap and grouded when you try this )

check compression, does the motor spin ez? you should talk with the previous owner and find out what he did. if he did change the piston and ring he should have rebuilt the whole motor. if he did change them why did he!?!
find out and get back to me
Mark Woodring

hi, you can get a cylinder repaire kit, but first of it would be recomended you remove the cylinder and check the bore for any damage or pitting due to corrosion and iregular fluid changes, paul

hope this helps

sounds like u have a crank seal going bad sometimes you can put the old one back in place and fix all the extra oil in the exhaust it would be the seal on the right side of the bike. sounds like the seal came out if you get to much fuel in the case it could cause the seal to pop out I would ck that first any questions send me a email i will be happy to help.

This could be 2 things :
Wrong oil or your clutch is old and needs replacing

Could have low compression or bad reed valves, if you take your hand and move the kick starter is it easy to do? i would do a compression test.

start with a new spark plug,if the bike sat for along period of time ,gas can gum up the carburator

o.k......you can try checking you have the correct plug(heat range)and nice blue spark,check your air cleaner.What about your engine oil.Is it the correct viscosety(weight)?.Are you running oil injected or premix?You could be running rich.Also make sure idling isnt set to high and have you the correct gas?These suggestions are just a start to check with.

Who put the new crankcase seals in your bike? Sounds like your sucking oil out of your crankcase if it is blowing all that smoke.just fixed Cr125 doing same thing. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/michael_18b4936ebf017b21

There could be debris in the float bowl preventing the float valve from closing. If this is the case it is likely this debris may get into other passages / circuits within the carb. Or the float has become full of fuel itself and cannot exert enough pressure on the valve to stop the flow of fuel. Also the float level has to be at the proper height to meter the fuel at the proper rate of flow for the engine in all conditions. Too low and the bike will starve for fuel before the valve can respond....to high and it'll pour out as your friend's is doing.
Drop the bowl off the carb and check to see if the float is full of fuel or there is any sign of debris in the bowl. Any sign of crud in the bowl and I would suggest cleaning the carb. You may be able the clear things enough to get the fuel to stop flowing by messing about but may have trouble down the road shortly if you don't get it all **** and span.
Do some more research into cleaning the carb as there are some parts you need to be careful of exposing to chemicals like solvents and cleaners...the rubber tip on the needle valve on the float. Basic rule is don't soak any plastic or rubber bits in any nasty chemicals. Same goes for you...lol...
You can check the float level without removing the carb by shutting of the gas and draining the float bowl. Take a short piece of clear tubing (8 inches or so) and slip it over the nipple where the drain screw was. Hold the tubing alongside the carb / bowl body so the open end is up and above the level the fuel should come to. Mark a small line on the tubing say 1/4" above the join between carb bowl and body. Turn on the fuel and observe the fuel flowing into tube....once it stops carefully lower the tube until the line you made is even with the split between bowl and body. The fuel shold stop flowing just before the top of the bowl....measure between your line and the fuel level....in your case the fuel may well just keep climbing out the tube as it seems you have issues there. After you get it sorted out this info is more useful.

Air screw setting = 1 1/2 turns Float height = 15 - 17 mm Fuel level = 0 - 2 mm below edge of bowl.

Get about three feet of clear neoprene fuel line at a motorcycle dealershop or car parts store. It should be small enough to fit securely over the bleeder nipple of your rear brake caliper. You want to put one end of the fuel line on the bleeder valve and the other end in a small jar with a little brake fluid in it. I usually put a box end wrench in the bleeder valve and then push the fuel line on, but you could use an open end wrench. Take the lid off the brake master cylinder to make sure you don't drain the reservoir and get air into the brake lines. With one hand pull on the brake lever, and with the other loosen the bleeder valve so that brake fluid flows out the valve and through the fuel line into the jar. Once the fuel line is completely full of brake fluid you don't have to worry about air getting back into the caliper when you let up on the brake lever. You will be able to see the bubbles come out of the caliper and go down the fuel line, and that way you will know when the job is done. It's easier to just unscrew the valve as you pull the lever, and screw it back in before you release the lever, and do this several times to bleed the caliper without going to the trouble of using the clear fuel line. But the way I recommended is not so messy, as all the brake doesn't spill out onto the ground, and you have a safety factor with the fuel line preventing air from getting back into the bleeder valve.