kawasaki KX 125 - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals - Page 9

u might need a new top end

That's specifically made for marine use. I'd steer clear. Try the Mobil 1 4T racing, if you want a good oil.

hopefully u put the rite size rings n piston in--du u hav proper libricant in case-what that model calls for--how is the cam chain tensioner @ correct value--du u have a shop book like clymer etc

WOW, I haven't ran into this for decades. Well, I would bet, the circlip that keeps the shift shaft into place is missing, the bike fall hard on the left side sometime? Well, if the clip is missing, the shaft can move to the right and there is a lever with a hooked arm that rides upon a shift drum (all trail bikes have similar system) and moving the shift lever, moves the hooked arm over the drum, causing a shift in gears. If the shaft is loose, the hooked arm will eventually come off the drum. Not sure, but it's probably under the r/s cover. This is a repair I did a lot in jr.high school for my friends. Not too hard.

32 to 1. That means 4 ounces of engine oil per gallon of gas. Be sure to use 2 stroke ENGINE oil, not standard Motor oil. Please rate my answer. Thanks.

i had the same problem. sorry to say but its your piston again. have you been letting it warm up before riding. checked oil before and after every ride. if yes then when the new piston was fitted something wasnt done properly

there is not much to adjust. Leave the float levels alone, they are set at the factory, leave alone the sliding needle adjustment too. All you have left, is an idle screw, and an air screw. adjustment for the air screw, turn all the way in till it stops, then 2 full turns out. mabey more , mabey less, listen for best idle. Then adjust your idle speed, thats it.

It can be un-flooded if you let the bike sit for a half an hour to an hour if its not starting check your spark plug or replace it and check to make sure your carburetor is not dirty.

It is a massive job you are talking about doing there. The engine must be removed, and entirely dismantled. Then the engine cases must be split to remove the crank. Not something you should attempt without a work shop manual, and lots of mechanical knowledge.
The crank bearings need to be pressed on.

Sounds serious, but good that you have compression. Can you remove the head? If yes, you can get a look at the cylinder walls.
Hard to diagnose without disassembly.

You can go to the following website and see every part on your bike as an exploded view. Please rate my answer. Thanks.
www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrand/default.aspx

anytime u deal with bottom end work it takes precision-did u open case up?

anything over 120 on compression test is ok. anything under 120 and its time for top end. and for bog you might try cleaning carb.

That will depend on what model motorcycle you have.
D.

32:1

http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/2005-kawasaki-motorcycle-kx125-kx125-m3/o/m3786

if you have all the electrics for the newer motor a would run the bike with them

when your putting the barrel back onto the piston start lowering it down. when you lower so far swing the power rod into posistion cause you cant fit it after you have reinstalled the barrel. hope this helps just fitted a new piston and rings on ma kx80 and a had the same problem lol

Take off fuel tap and check if worn and If there is a diaphram check it for holes.

Normally located on right side of bike just above the rear swing arm connection. It may be dirty so you might need to clean the frame to locate the full serial number.