kawasaki KX 125 - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals - Page 7

hi, you can get a cylinder repaire kit, but first of it would be recomended you remove the cylinder and check the bore for any damage or pitting due to corrosion and iregular fluid changes, paul

Who put the new crankcase seals in your bike? Sounds like your sucking oil out of your crankcase if it is blowing all that smoke.just fixed Cr125 doing same thing. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/michael_18b4936ebf017b21

probably need to remove the caliper frmm the disc, usually 2 bolts

probably not the timing.
what happened when it stopped?
maybe the carb has flooded the crankcase, or something more serious with the piston and rings.
does it kick over with the plug out( make sure the plug is in the plug cap and grouded when you try this )

start with a new spark plug,if the bike sat for along period of time ,gas can gum up the carburator

sounds like u have a crank seal going bad sometimes you can put the old one back in place and fix all the extra oil in the exhaust it would be the seal on the right side of the bike. sounds like the seal came out if you get to much fuel in the case it could cause the seal to pop out I would ck that first any questions send me a email i will be happy to help.

There could be debris in the float bowl preventing the float valve from closing. If this is the case it is likely this debris may get into other passages / circuits within the carb. Or the float has become full of fuel itself and cannot exert enough pressure on the valve to stop the flow of fuel. Also the float level has to be at the proper height to meter the fuel at the proper rate of flow for the engine in all conditions. Too low and the bike will starve for fuel before the valve can respond....to high and it'll pour out as your friend's is doing.
Drop the bowl off the carb and check to see if the float is full of fuel or there is any sign of debris in the bowl. Any sign of crud in the bowl and I would suggest cleaning the carb. You may be able the clear things enough to get the fuel to stop flowing by messing about but may have trouble down the road shortly if you don't get it all **** and span.
Do some more research into cleaning the carb as there are some parts you need to be careful of exposing to chemicals like solvents and cleaners...the rubber tip on the needle valve on the float. Basic rule is don't soak any plastic or rubber bits in any nasty chemicals. Same goes for you...lol...
You can check the float level without removing the carb by shutting of the gas and draining the float bowl. Take a short piece of clear tubing (8 inches or so) and slip it over the nipple where the drain screw was. Hold the tubing alongside the carb / bowl body so the open end is up and above the level the fuel should come to. Mark a small line on the tubing say 1/4" above the join between carb bowl and body. Turn on the fuel and observe the fuel flowing into tube....once it stops carefully lower the tube until the line you made is even with the split between bowl and body. The fuel shold stop flowing just before the top of the bowl....measure between your line and the fuel level....in your case the fuel may well just keep climbing out the tube as it seems you have issues there. After you get it sorted out this info is more useful.

Air screw setting = 1 1/2 turns Float height = 15 - 17 mm Fuel level = 0 - 2 mm below edge of bowl.

hope this helps

o.k......you can try checking you have the correct plug(heat range)and nice blue spark,check your air cleaner.What about your engine oil.Is it the correct viscosety(weight)?.Are you running oil injected or premix?You could be running rich.Also make sure idling isnt set to high and have you the correct gas?These suggestions are just a start to check with.

700cc or 0.7 litres of oil

run 14 psi on hard pack and in dirt with a lot of traction. I run 12 when its a little bit slippery, and 9-10 when it is greasy.

i know it says 30 psi on there tyre but thats to much

John

the fuel to oil ratio is 32. to 1

Get about three feet of clear neoprene fuel line at a motorcycle dealershop or car parts store. It should be small enough to fit securely over the bleeder nipple of your rear brake caliper. You want to put one end of the fuel line on the bleeder valve and the other end in a small jar with a little brake fluid in it. I usually put a box end wrench in the bleeder valve and then push the fuel line on, but you could use an open end wrench. Take the lid off the brake master cylinder to make sure you don't drain the reservoir and get air into the brake lines. With one hand pull on the brake lever, and with the other loosen the bleeder valve so that brake fluid flows out the valve and through the fuel line into the jar. Once the fuel line is completely full of brake fluid you don't have to worry about air getting back into the caliper when you let up on the brake lever. You will be able to see the bubbles come out of the caliper and go down the fuel line, and that way you will know when the job is done. It's easier to just unscrew the valve as you pull the lever, and screw it back in before you release the lever, and do this several times to bleed the caliper without going to the trouble of using the clear fuel line. But the way I recommended is not so messy, as all the brake doesn't spill out onto the ground, and you have a safety factor with the fuel line preventing air from getting back into the bleeder valve.

bit more information needed here what model kawasaki do you have and what problem
do you have with it

It just need new oil seals, but make sure that you don't put to much oil
back in, or it will be very hard and could blow the seals again,
hope this helps

.7 liters or 700 cc's

sounds like a siezure, tear down the top end and inspect it!

hopefully its just the piston and not the crankshaft.

remove the piston and see if the rod has nice smooth movement, and no up and down movement on the big-end bearing

Now, you need to find out what caused the siezure, so you dont sieze it again after its rebuilt

Unhook both ends of your clutch cable if it is binding at all replace it. If the lever on the motor does not go all the way back to riding position (disengaged clutch position). You may have to disassemble the motor to check for a broken spring or damaged clutch engagement mechanism.

sounds like the inner seal of water pump is bad and should be replaced. really not that hard to fix

I would use a motorcycle gearbox oil weight 10/40 Hope this is what you needed.
Deke

HI FIRST YOU WILL HAVE TO REMOVE THE ENGINE FROM THE FRAME, DRAIN THE GEARBOX OIL OUT, YOU WILL ALSO NEED A FLYWHEEL PULLER THIS IS A SPECIAL TOOL, DAMAGE CAN OCCURE AT GREAT EXPENSE IF YOU DONT USE CORRECT TOOLS, COMPLETLY DISMANTLE THE ENGINE AND GEARBOX, CAREFULLY EXAMINE ALL INTERNALLS AND SEEK REPLACMENT PARTS, A DELICATE JOB REQUIRES FINESS AND COMPETENCE