kawasaki KLX 300 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support - Page 3

• Yes it does on klf.Usually there is a oil cooler in the area.I do put a manual switch inline and run it on
• hot days.

i have an idea how about you make your own nice alluminium or something can withstand heat and oil dipstick and a place to keep at your bike and mark it after u have a new oil change.

Depending of the bike , the tensioner should be a Teflon push plate or a metal plate which pushes on the chain to reduce the slack in the chain .Adjustment can be made manually from the back of the cylinders but all tensioner are different .Some do have a spring which could need replacement . sometimes if the timing chain is too old it make noise due to the tensioner out to the maximum tension and does not apply enough pressure on the chain and therefore noise and slight vibration .

of course it can and i miss my kawasaki KLX 300 a lot it is a great bike

If you are still having fuel feed problems then check the fuel pump (pump may be faulty) and the fuel line filter ( filter may be clogged - replace).

Depends on which one, one will go to the tank valve. Another one is a vent and just goes down to vent gas if overfilled or wrecked.

i think you need to clean the exhaust pipe.sounds like it might be clogged.Dont know if this is a 2 stroke or not.They definately had problems

If it's the one I'm thinking of -it has a vacuum operated shutoff valve on the tank. So your leaky -read stuck- needle and seat only leak when the engine is turning over.

Pull the carb loose and roll over and remove the float bowl. drop the float pin and remove the float and needle. Find the vacuum line to the fuel valve and **** it open to flush out the needle and seat. When the fuel runs clean, put the needle and float back on and open the fuel valve again. If the upside down carbs holds back the fuel- it's fixed and you can put it back together.

All vehicles use the 10th character of the VIN number.

VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) Year Identifier: Year: 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 10th: B C D E F G H J K L

Year: 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 00 10th: M N P R S T V W X Y

Year: 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10th: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

The head and cylinder can not be removed as a single unit. You will need to put the piston on TDC compression, then check for the cam positioning mark or marks to see where they line up. This is the exact positioning the cam gear must be reinstalled at. Remove the cam gear from the cam and the chain but first hook a piece of wire to the chain so it can't fall down into the crank area. Now the head can come off then the cylinder. The simple diagram is your engine. the other one is generic and shows alignment. Please rate my answer. Thanks.

check you coils and pick up i have had to replace the pick up on those little klf alot
Good Luck
M.Woodring

Sounds like the relay contacts are bent or welded closed or the solenoid is stuck. Check the solenoid first by removing the small wire from it and seeing if the starter stops turning. If it does not stop, the contacts in the solenoid are stuck closed.

the easiest way i find is to drain the resevoir, refil and drain with a vaccuum bleeder until clean fluid comes through the bleeder (topping up the resevoir as you do so)
this works for front or rear brakes.
hope this helps

make sure u have the right compression and after 5 years of not kicking it a 300 is probably pretty tough to kick. but u should be ok

manual or electronic design?

basic 2 pole flasher relay manual design = battery -ve to lights return (metal shroud of bulb)

battery +ve to fuse holder (10A on 12volt system)
output of fuseholder to flasher unit +ve pin (sometimes marked input or L)

output of flasher unit to centre (common) connection of flasher direction switch.

output of one side (left or right) of switch to front and rear bulbs (wire from switch to front, wire from switch to rear) = centre pin of bulb

repeat last instruction for other pair of bulbs

Done!

Kawasaki 10w40 motor oil. This is the oem recommended oil... Good luck and happy riding.
HDTV GURU JAY

Wath was before problems starting?
Details needed.

Lock the bike in gear so the sprocket won't turn. Remember that the locknut is a left-hand thread and may have locktite on. If the sprocket still turns then get a friend to hold the drivechain tight and wrap it around the sprocket, this should "jam" the sprocket and not allow it to move.

sounds like it may need clutch adjustment,may be an adjustment on cable at the motor turn it out couple turns and try again,theres also an adjustment at the lever,try that also,based on what you have described if the clutch is not fully engaged when shift into 1st gear it will shut down on you,also if you have it running with clutch lever pulled in and it wants to still move forward that is the problem,hope that helps.

how do i adjust the vaulves