kawasaki KLX 300 - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals - Page 6

The float is stuck in the bottom of the carb. Remove the bowl, pull out the float and needle valve, and clean the valve and the hole it sits in.

look for a short / worn wiring in head light itself or in loom under the tank.

I'm not familiar with all quads and all the kill switch locations. Does it have a tip-over kill switch? Is it working? Is the quad in neutral? Is the neutral light on? Many engines will not spark if the neutral light is not on. Are the headlights off when starting?

How good is your battery? A low battery can kill spark. Test for spark by grounding the threads of the plug against the cylinder. Have a friend kick the bike while you watch for spark. Assuming no spark, then check all the kill switches with an Ohmmeter to be sure each switch is working properly. Sometimes a switch goes bad. Try disconnecting all kill switches then check spark.

Check the wiring harness, even under the gas tank and seat. Are all the connectors clean and with a tight connection? Any abraded wires? Check the ignition switch also. The switch can go bad as well. Are the flywheel coils good > is the battery getting a charge?

Still no spark? If CDI then get it checked.
If points then file or replace them along with a new condensor and reset the gap then time the engine. >> I hope this helps.

Please rate this answer. Thanks trsrhntr!

i have an idea how about you make your own nice alluminium or something can withstand heat and oil dipstick and a place to keep at your bike and mark it after u have a new oil change.

it's .8 "

open the clucth cover and check if rod is installed

also how was it packed solid/friction/solid/friction

while open check clutch basket for ruff edges where solids plates ride should be smooth

Re-jet it leaner.

I personally run 11 psi in the front and 12-13 psi in the rear but it is all based on riding style, technique, and personal preference. What do you mean by shifting pattern.
I think it is
1st all the way down
neutral half click up from first
2nd 1 click up from 1st
and so on.

sounds like that the piston o-rings are warn out. replace them on the master cylinder and get your self a 12 inch tube and a small glass jar loosen the bleeder valve put the tube on the bleeder valve and the other end in the jar put brake fluid in the jar and put it in the reservoir don't let ether run out and keep moving the brake lever it will get the air out of the lines quicker, repeat this for the other side

dear atv owner there is no need to remove the pulleys to replace the drive belt. you must open the large pulley by hand and drop the new belt in bottom of this pulley this will hold it open then pull the belt across to engine pulley then turn the rear wheels in clockwise direction this should force the belt on the engine pulley job done jim

Headlight should not be your worry. I have a feeling the kill switch was cut for a reason.(faulty)disconnect the kill switch, leave the 2 wires bare and try starting, if no luck connect the 2 wires to each other and try again, thats the only 2 ways a kill switch works so if no luck look elsewhere...Good Luck to you friend....Tim

go here http://www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrand/parts.aspx

look up your bike and you can find exploded view to show how to do it.

15 thousandths

does this model use a chain tensioner? a spring riding on the chain? it maybe broken. you have too much play in the timing chain

You said the motor cut out and popped and backfired when it quit, this is almost always one of two things; either the low speed pulse coil or the actual CDI "black" box. You will almost never lose a main coil. One thing I would also check to make sure did not happen is shearing a flywheel mag key. When the motor backfires you can easily shear a mag key if you have a heavy flywheel, (external). However when this happens you don't usually lose spark but it will certainly cause the backfire.
One other item of importance is that the bike you are in question about does not emit a bright spark when you are checking for fire. Make sure you are using a brand new plug and ground it on the head. Try to make sure you are in a dark environment when you check the spark.

hello my friend,, try these guyz out,,there a downloadable web site,, www.repairmanual.com

hi idont believe that you have piston to valve problems as the valves would simply bend, this would then reduce your compression and your m/c would not run correctly .
wot you may be suffering from is just large valve clearance or worn camshaft and or valve gear,however this must be investigated further
hope this is of help ian

has it got an aftermarket 'manual' tensioner fitted ? if so you should adjust it when you hear it rattling.

are you keeping your oil topped up and changed regularly

Absolutely, the rectifier on your Kawasaki Mean Streak 1500 can be repositioned during a customization project. The rectifier is a crucial part of the motorcycle's electrical system, converting alternating current (AC) from the stator into direct current (DC) to charge the battery and power the bike's electrical components. While relocating the rectifier, it's important to consider a few key factors:

1. Space and Mounting: Assess the available space on the motorcycle to find a suitable location for the rectifier. Ensure that the new position allows for proper mounting and secure attachment without interfering with other components or the bike's functionality.
2. Heat Dissipation: The rectifier generates heat during operation, so it's essential to relocate it to an area with adequate airflow for cooling. Mounting it in a well-ventilated area helps prevent overheating issues.
3. Wiring and Connections: When moving the rectifier, ensure that the wiring can be appropriately rerouted to reach its new location. Take care to maintain proper electrical connections and ensure a secure, stable wiring setup.
4. Protection: Consider adding protective measures, such as shields or guards, to safeguard the relocated rectifier from road debris, water, or other potential hazards.

Modifying the placement of the rectifier may require custom brackets, mounts, or fabrication work to secure it in the desired location. It's crucial to execute the relocation carefully, maintaining proper electrical connections and ensuring the rectifier's safety and functionality. If you're not confident in performing these modifications yourself, consulting a professional motorcycle mechanic or technician with experience in customizations can be highly beneficial. They can offer guidance, expertise, and ensure that the modifications are carried out safely and effectively.

It is is firing out of the carb and the exhaust, the timing must be off, but also slipping. Is the flywheel tight? https://www.google.com/search?q=1984+kawasaki+klt+250+backfiring+problem ..