kawasaki KLX 300 - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals - Page 5

Using a lighter viscosity engine oil can make all the difference. Try something on the order of a 5W-30 for ambient temperatures of 60F or below. Of course, it could also be that your starter solenoid is in the early stages of failure. You can easily check it by using a large screwdriver to bridge the two large cable connections on the top of the solenoid. If the starter spins when you do this, then the solenoid is bad.

hi,might be able to help,a compression test would be a good start,however,if you already have the engine apart,replace the rings anyway,if the engine has been overheated the rings although they look ok will have lost their tension and therefore their ability to hold sufficent pressure against the cylinder walls,therefore allowing blowby,or compression leakage,the other area i would look is the condition of the valve seals and seats,both intake and exhaust,if the engine has been overheated,the seals may have cracked or become weak,whenever i have my race bike apart with the head off i always relap the valves(just a light cut)and this ensures a good seal through the head etc,hope all this helps...cheers ian

Fill to 3/4 full in the glass.

manual or electronic design?

basic 2 pole flasher relay manual design = battery -ve to lights return (metal shroud of bulb)

battery +ve to fuse holder (10A on 12volt system)
output of fuseholder to flasher unit +ve pin (sometimes marked input or L)

output of flasher unit to centre (common) connection of flasher direction switch.

output of one side (left or right) of switch to front and rear bulbs (wire from switch to front, wire from switch to rear) = centre pin of bulb

repeat last instruction for other pair of bulbs

Done!

Hi there Joseph.
Sorry to hear you wrecked the 4 wheeler - I think we do that at least once.
Hope you're recovering well.

Now for the question.
There is a lot of swapping like this going on. Of course the more parts and wiring you have the easier and cheaper it is. In a word YES you can do the swap and right in your garage.

Be sure to take many pictures of the wrecked bike for wiring - - colors - routing - and sizes.
Be sure to take pics of the position of the rear end and front components.
Moving everything will be easier. You may have some simple modifications and or welding but it is doable and will be great fun and unique to you when it is finished.
Please consider sending me some pictures of how it is going.
I hope this answers your question.

Best of it

RICE

i do believe that its easier to replace the silynoid with the starter out of the machine that is if it isattached to the start other wise no if its like most kawasaki four wheelers you need to disconect the abttery and then trace the main power to the silynoid and disconect it there also and then remove and install new silynoid

Valve setting procedure for this unit is a "go-no-go". By this I mean that for the intake valves a .02 feeler gauge will go but a .04 will not go. For the exhaust valves it is .04 will go and .06 will not go.
So, that being said, the intake is .02 and the exhaust is .04.

could be the transfer gear or "bevel gears". does it **** in the drivetrain when it makes the noise? if so, check those gears!

ok buddy to stop the back firing on the carb will be a screw turn this in 1/4 of a turn and try this the mixture screw on pic below

hi im JACK. i am thinking about buying a 1998 KAWASAKI KLX300 but there is no spark is that a common fault. because there is no spark i can not hear it run and what else shoud i check on this bike because i am not familliar with this bike.
please help thanks, JACK

ok buddy your not getting enough fuel in the carb so on the carb will be a screw you need to turn this mixture screw out a turn and try it if this doesnt work get back to me buddy

A service manual is a very good thing to have for an aging bike. Look up Clymer books, or buy from dealer.
In the meantime, check out the 646 stacks in reference at the library.

Check for good fuel flow from carburetor end of fuel line. If no, check fuel tap filter screen inside of tap bowl.

is it 2 stroke or 4 stroke buddy

have a kawasaki dealer duplicate it for you, else, you will have to change the ignition system

ok buddy strip carb off and 4 screws on the bowl and inside you will see the float slide the pivot pin out holding the float in and the float will come off with the inlet fuel valve still attached take this off and the tab it was still connected on you need to bend that down wards to allow more fuel in the carb and into the engine or another thing could be the main jet blocked check the jet first blow down it if ok do the float bit and get back to me

check the carbs float height if to high will keep blowing spark plugs also do the fuel/air mixture screw it will say in the manual e.g 2 1/2 turns out this means screw this screw right in and unscrew the correct amount off turns also make sure your running the correct plug as i have used too cold plugs and have kept blowing try a hotter plugeg br8es <cold br9es<hotter good luck bud

it is not getting fuel, check fuel supply, carbs,etc

hi mate on the carb there are 2 screws below picture will demonstrate on the mixture screw you need to fiddle around with it either screw it in 1/2 turns and see if it improves in not unscrew it a full 1 turn just fiddle with it till it runs perfect also try replacing plug

coil gone or the plug broken down replace the plug 1 st and get back to me