kawasaki KLX 300 - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals - Page 4

how do i adjust the vaulves

Take the recoil cover off, loosen the tensioner screws, and hold the crankshaft in place with your mark in the right position. I hope this helps you out!

better look at carb-probly medium n hi jets need ajust-and shud hav a pro do that cause to lean or rich can ruin the engine--buy a clymer manual-it explains kawa carbs well

Go to the website below to see the part and get the name. Please rate my answer. Thanks
www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrand/default.aspx

Sounds like it has sat for a while. I had a Suzuki 850 like this. It turns out that when a motorcycle carburetor sits, main jet, and the needle that goes through it, oxidize. This causes the metal surface to grow. The jet's inside surface growing makes the hole smaller, and the needle's surface growing makes it fill the jet too much.

Replace the jets and the needles that go through them.

Make sure the carburetor's diaphragm that opens the carb is in good shape, if it has one.

G'Day b shrum,
You can download a service manual for the bike here, (click on "free user") I checked the link working fine for now at least. Get a copy for yourself while the link is hot.
The Kawasaki shop manual suggest Engine Oil as SE Class SAE viscosity of 10W40, 10W50, 20W40, 20W50 Is really a subjective thing, use the oil that suits your riding conditions, and climate. 10w40 for lower temps, 20w50 for hotter heavier duty conditions. Thicker oil protects better, thinner oil makes you go faster :)
I suggest using any good quality synthetic oil engineered for motorcycles. The brands here are endless. Chose what you can afford, but always get good quality oil and change it and the oil filter every 1000 k's
regards robotek

have the voltage regulator checked for the proper output

the floates are probally stuck open.. you can tap on the float bowl with the blunt side of a screw driver and see if it stops.. if not you will need to pull the card off and take the float bowl off and see why they are sticking

Are you sure you put them back together in the correct sequence and spacings? To me it sounds as you missed something such as over tightneing or wrong clutch sequence. Try re-do it again.

Try a new plug. Chances are the carbon build up on the old plug is providing a ground path for the spark to the motor.

idle jets are clogged needs to have carb cleaned

you have a dead short in your brake light wiring somewhere. Check the switch first as it is a common weak link in the system. Check for pinched areas like seat and kiil switch also

has the bike sat up for any amount of time?? if so first clean you carb, replace spark plug. when was the last time you had the valves adj.? remove the airbox and spary alittle carb cleaner, starter fuild , wd-40 in the carb with the thorttle wide open, then close the throttle and see what happens if wants to start clean your carb.
good luck ride safe
Mark
C.C. Motorsports

Look in the recycler or craigs list and average out what the asking prices are for that model. Bump your price a couple hundred for negotiating and see what happens? Chaz Moto DC

Well there is a dating service on the internet. ha ha whats wrong

If spark plug is wet with petrol then float level is incorrect either by dirt under float needle or set too high.

If you havent altered / removed the carb and it has just happened, somtimes gently tapping the float bowl can dislodge the dirt. Otherwise you will need to remove carby, (I assume it has one) and clean out.

Black and white is ground
White and black is Brakes
Brown is Running

looking at the wiring diagram i think thats right, if you have a new light hook the ground definitly to Black and white (mainly black with a white streak) and then take turns with the other 2 wires until the less bright one is always on and the bright one is on when the brake pedal is down.

probably the stator. It can be tested with an ohm meter, but you need to call a dealer to get the correct readings and wires to check across.

your carb is durty need to pull it apart and clean it both jets idle and main

Jack, find a newer bike. Most dealers will not work on a bike over ten years old. Parts availability is one reason. Another is the workload in the shop and the need for the mechanics to stay current with the new models coming out yearly. If they fixed every bike that came in the service backlog would be really bad.

The KLX 300 was never a popular bike. Not many still arround. I would not buy the bike until I rode it for an hour or so. You gotta check the suspension, handling, power, shifting smoothly, shocks, forks, power valve, clutch, water pump, oil pump, radiator, electrical system, front and rear brakes, carb, rings,