Honda Motorcycles - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals


Hi, Bryan and the usual suspects are:
1. The Run-Off switch is in the Off position.
2. Corroded contacts inside the Run-Off switch need cleaning.
3. A faulty wire from the Run-Off switch to the starter button.
4. Corroded contacts inside the starter button need cleaning.
5. Faulty wire leaving the starter button going to the starter relay.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.hondashadow.net/forum/72-technical-discussion/102672-starter-button-not-working.html
https://www.hondaatvforums.net/forums/repair-maintenance/76842-push-button-start-doesn-t-work.html
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2001 Honda Vigor... | 124 views | 1 helpful votes


here's a website that has all this information about all this and manuals everything totally free there are many actually but I personally like few .. let me k now if u need help
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Honda... | 337 views | 1 helpful votes


Hi, Eric for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Honda Motorcycle Wiring Diagrams
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Honda Motorcycle Manuals 1950 to 1980

1972 Honda CB... | 31 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Kim before testing any electrical component in the Reverse Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries otherwise the usual suspects are:
1. The reverse electric motor safety switch has tripped and needs to be "PROPERLY" reset.
2. Improper button engagement procedure
3. Reverse button stuck in the depressed position.
4. The run-off switch is in the off position.
5. Bike not in neutral.
6. Faulty relay, reverse actuator, solenoid, regulator module,
7. Wire connectors in the reverse system faulty due to corroded, bent, broken, loose, retracted or missing wire pins and sockets.
8. Reverse cables not properly adjusted.
9. Faulty reverse lever components.
10. Reverse lever not in the on position.
11. The reverse motor has failed and needs an overhaul.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=17081
Gold Wing Cruise Control And Reverse Troubleshooting
Honda GL1800 Service Manual
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Honda Goldwing GL1800 Owner Manual

2005 Honda GL... | 39 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Anonymous if your headlight is not working, intermittent, only one beam works, keeps burning out, blinking, dim or surges from bright to dim to bright the first thing you need to check is the headlight bulb for damaged filaments then check your light circuit fuse, then check your headlight bulb socket ground wire for a clean tight connection, that being said the usual suspects are:
1. Faulty ground or power supply wire to the headlight bulb socket.
2. Worn down solder contacts or loose fit of the bulb base in the socket due to vibration.
3. Worn, chafed, or broken wires in the light circuit.
4. Corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets in wire connectors.
5. Faulty hi/low beam switch.
6. Faulty ignition switch.
7. Fuse is good but no continuity on both sides.
8. Faulty headlight relay.
9. Faulty wiring between battery positive and headlight bulb socket.
10. Weak charging alternator/generator/lighting coil
11. Faulty voltage regulator/rectifier ground or overcharging.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.google.com/search?q=2010+Honda+CBF+600+wiring+diagram&tbm=isch&source=univ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwj5jeKF77PhAhXPzlkKHTLLBwoQsAR6BAgIEAE&biw=1440&bih=757
Honda Motorcycle Wiring Diagrams
Honda CBF600SA Service Manual
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https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1447240/Honda-Cbf600s-2006.html

2008 Honda CBF... | 32 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Jason if some or all of your instrument cluster goes dark/blank immediately upon startup or a few minutes later riding down the road the usual suspects are:
1. Blown instrument fuse.
2. A bad ground in the instrument circuit.
3. Faulty wiring before or after the fuse.
4. Faulty wiring or connector between the fuse and the instrument cluster.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Instrument Cluster not Working CBR Forum Enthusiast forums for Honda CBR...
Honda cbr 600 speedometer gauge problem fix
Honda CBR954RR 2002 Service Manual
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Honda CBR900RR FIRE BLADE Owner Manual

2003 Honda CBR... | 36 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Mickey and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. The fuel tank has old dead gas.
3. Fuel tank bottom contaminated with ethanol sludge, dirt, water, rust, etc.
4. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
5. Fouled spark plugs.
6. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the choke.
7. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
8. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
9. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched, kinked or blocked.
10. Carburetor float stuck.
11. Fuel injectors clogged.
12. Fuel injectors stuck open.
13. Quick disconnect check ball stuck.
14. Compression below 75 PSI.
15. A stuck-bent-burnt valve.
16. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
17. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
18. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil or plug between ignition sensor and ECM module.
19. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for spark leakage in the dark, cable connections are loose or connected to the wrong cylinders.
20. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC sensors.
21. Faulty neutral, clutch, kickstand safety switch.
22. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
23. Faulty or corroded run/stop switch.
24. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
25. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
26. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Honda Shadow vt600 won start ideas Motorcycle Forum
https://www.hondashadow.net/forum/72-technical-discussion/440201-help-new-ish-shadow-vlx-owner-bike-won-t-start-battery.html
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Honda... | 31 views | 0 helpful votes


It's 5 3/4". See pic and link below. You can buy one anywhere, the link is just an example but could be used if you'd like, they have great customer service as well and are glad to talk if you need to call. Have an awesome day & ride safe my friend! https://www.jpcycles.com/product/330-224/5-3-4-sealed-beam-bulb
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Honda... | 41 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Angela before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for a 32 amp system.
4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).
5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.
6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if passed step 2)
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2006 Honda VTX... | 32 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Bob and the usual suspects are:
1. The front wheel or transmission drive unit has failed.
2. The drive unit tab is not properly indexed.
3. Broken speedometer cable.
4. The speedometer has failed.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4671
https://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/2-goldwing-technical-forum/325037-speedometer-not-working.html
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/826011/Honda-Gold-Wing-Gl1200d.html
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Honda GL1200 1986 Owner Manual

1986 Honda GL... | 23 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Niko derestrict is a negative term rider's use to express their wish to improve performance on their bike or scooter. Depending on the country and motor vehicles laws some bikes and scooters are designed to conform with said laws and their performance is slightly lower than other countries. All vehicles in the world are designed to perform at 75-80% of their maximum potential, this ensures the longevity of the engine. Derestricting or improving performance is always possible on any vehicle but the tradeoff of engine longevity numbers go down, how much depends on the number and type of performance upgrades. Your local dealership or reputable independent shop are best equipped to provide you with technical data and willingness to comply with your needs.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/SHADOW-400-Derestrict-CDI-for-Ignitor-Ignition-ECU-MBA/608255718.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iprgkDhLXFQ
Honda VT600C Shadow VLX Service Manual
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Honda VT600C Owner Manual

1994 Honda VT... | 42 views | 1 helpful votes


Sounds like you are not getting enough gas. Check the fuel filter and change if plugged. Also, you might have gotten bad gas.

Honda VT 1100 C3... | 25 views | 0 helpful votes


better get the VALVE timing/clearance checked and adjusted

Honda... | 29 views | 0 helpful votes


Time to go back to basics and ensure the ignition timing is correct. Remove the spark plug and highlight the timing mark or make a mark on the flywheel/rotor that indicates a few degrees BTDC and use a stroboscope to ensure the marks are approximately in line when the kickstarter is operated fairly vigorously.

Could be something has been fitted wrong or has been damaged. The electrics/electronics are fairly complex and I am not familiar with the model. I don't know how the ignition is triggered for instance, but I once encountered a 2-stroke that had seized but refused to start after the rebuild. The engine had stopped so suddenly the flywheel (rotor) had kept going for a very small amount of time and had become twisted so the relationship between the hub/crankshaft keyway and spark timing had been lost. A replacement flywheel was fitted and it started first kick...

Honda... | 27 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Bob and the usual suspects are:
1. The front wheel or transmission drive unit has failed.
2. The drive unit tab is not properly indexed.
3. Broken speedometer cable.
4. The speedometer has failed.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4671
https://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/2-goldwing-technical-forum/325037-speedometer-not-working.html
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/826011/Honda-Gold-Wing-Gl1200d.html
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
Honda GL1200 1986 Owner Manual

1986 Honda GL... | 21 views | 0 helpful votes

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