Honda Hunter S SLD005 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support
Drain bolt tool
You don't need one just a good quality 17mm socket the filters in the drain bolt so be careful as you undo it
Reset honda s wing
Sounds like your system is not charging the rectifier in this model fails you should be getting 14 volts at the battery witb the engine running. I've changed one recently not an easy job get a meter reading across the battery 14volts is reqd
1998 Honda CBR 1100 XX Super blackbird remove coolant reservoir
To remove the coolant reservoir on a 1998 Honda CBR1100XX Super Blackbird, you'll typically follow these steps:
1. **Locate the Coolant Reservoir:** The coolant reservoir is usually located near the front of the motorcycle, typically on the left side. It's a translucent or semi-transparent plastic tank with hoses connected to it.
2. **Drain the Coolant:** Before removing the reservoir, it's essential to drain the coolant from the system to prevent spills. You can do this by locating the drain bolt or plug on the bottom of the radiator and carefully loosening it to allow the coolant to drain into a suitable container.
3. **Disconnect Hoses:** Once the coolant is drained, locate the hoses connected to the coolant reservoir. There may be one or more hoses connected to the reservoir. Carefully loosen the hose clamps using pliers and slide them back along the hoses. Then, gently pull the hoses off the reservoir fittings. Be prepared for some residual coolant to leak out.
4. **Remove Mounting Bolts or Screws:** With the hoses disconnected, locate the mounting bolts or screws that secure the coolant reservoir to the motorcycle frame or other mounting points. Use an appropriate wrench or screwdriver to loosen and remove these bolts or screws.
5. **Remove the Reservoir:** Once the mounting hardware is removed, carefully lift the coolant reservoir away from the motorcycle. Be mindful of any remaining coolant in the reservoir and try to avoid spilling it.
6. **Inspect and Clean:** With the reservoir removed, you can inspect it for any signs of damage or wear. You can also clean the reservoir and hoses with water or a mild detergent solution if necessary.
7. **Reinstallation:** To reinstall the coolant reservoir, simply reverse the removal steps. Ensure that the hoses are securely reconnected, the mounting bolts or screws are tightened properly, and the coolant drain bolt or plug is tightened to prevent leaks.
8. **Refill Coolant:** After reinstalling the reservoir, refill the cooling system with the appropriate type and amount of coolant according to the manufacturer's specifications.
Always refer to the motorcycle's service manual for specific instructions and torque specifications when working on the cooling system. If you're unsure or uncomfortable with any step of the process, it's best to seek assistance from a qualified motorcycle mechanic.
Honda 500 TRX fa6 has PS on the dash….what does it mean ?
The Power Steering has failed. There has been a factory recall for a suddenly failing electrical steering shaft, that could cause the rider to loose control. This does not have to be your problem but anyhow either the electronics or the pump failed. Error codes or messages usually have to be erased by a simple reset procedure or disconnecting a plug, after repairs are done.
3/26/2024 9:47:07 AM •
Honda...
•
Answered
2 days ago
2003 Honda VT 750 C2 Shadow carburetor adjustment
Let's focus on adjusting the air/fuel mixture. This adjustment can help balance the fuel-to-air ratio for both cylinders. Here are the steps you can follow:
Idle Screw (Air/Fuel Mix):
The idle screw, also known as the pilot screw, adjusts the air/fuel mixture at idle. It affects the fuel flow from the pilot jets (idle jets) into the carburetors.
Locate the idle screw on your carburetor. It's usually a small black knob near the choke.
Turn the idle screw to achieve the desired idle speed. Listen to how the bike sounds while adjusting it.
Note: Adjusting the idle screw shouldn't significantly affect the mixture setting.
Pilot Screw (Idle Mixture):
The pilot screw (idle mixture screw) fine-tunes the air/fuel mixture from idle rpm up to about 1/8th throttle.
To access the pilot screws, you may need to remove the air box and carb side cover.
The factory default setting for the pilot screws is typically 2.5 turns out.
Carefully screw each one in until it lightly seats closed, and then count the number of turns.
You can adjust the pilot screws to make the mixture richer (more turns out) or leaner (less than 2.5 turns).
Dual Carburetor Sync:
Since your bike has dual carburetors, it's essential to ensure they are synchronized.
Use a vacuum gauge set to synchronize the carbs. Adjust the linkage screw until both throttle butterflies are in the same position for idle2.
Synchronization helps maintain consistent performance between the front and rear cylinders.
Check Rear Cylinder Idle:
If the rear cylinder isn't running correctly at idle, it could be due to a partially plugged idle jet.
Consider cleaning the carburetors if needed. While it can be a bit of work, it's essential for proper performance.
If the issue persists, consult a mechanic or consider opening up the carburetor for a thorough inspection.
Remember to take your time and make gradual adjustments. If you're unsure, consult your bike's service manual or seek professional assistance.
Adjusting the Mixture Screws - VT750DC.com
Carb Cleaning on 03 spirit 750 ' Honda Shadow Forums
Carb Adjustments ' Honda Shadow Forums
1985 Honda CB 700 SC Nighthawk hydraulic clutch hard to pull
If you've already bled the hydraulic clutch system, and you're still experiencing difficulty pulling the lever with no apparent kinks or obstructions in the lines, there are a few other potential issues to consider:
- Master Cylinder or Slave Cylinder Issues: Check the master cylinder and slave cylinder for any signs of leaks or damage. If either of these components is faulty, it can lead to a loss of hydraulic pressure. Replace or rebuild the faulty cylinder if needed.
- Clutch Fluid Contamination: Ensure that the clutch fluid is clean and free from contaminants. Contaminated fluid can affect the performance of the hydraulic system. If the fluid is discolored or contains debris, consider flushing the entire system and refilling it with fresh clutch fluid.
- Air in the System: Despite bleeding, there might still be air trapped in the system. Ensure that you've thoroughly bled the system, starting from the master cylinder and working your way down to the slave cylinder. Sometimes, it may take multiple bleeding sessions to completely remove all air bubbles.
- Clutch Cable Adjustment (if applicable): If your motorcycle has a hydraulic clutch, cable adjustment may not be applicable. However, if it uses a cable-operated clutch, check for proper cable tension and adjust it according to the manufacturer's specifications.
- Clutch Components Wear: Check the clutch components such as the clutch plates and springs for wear. Worn-out components may result in poor clutch engagement. If necessary, replace the clutch components.
If the issue persists after checking these aspects, it might be worthwhile to consult with a professional motorcycle mechanic. They can conduct a thorough inspection and diagnose the problem accurately. It's important to address clutch issues promptly to ensure safe and reliable operation of your motorcycle.
My 2005 450x is hard to start and when it does
Install a new stock spark plug. Clean the air filter then remove and clean the carb. Drain the gas tank, clean out rust and any trash, and remove the fuel valve to clean the internal tank filters. Now install an in-line fuel filter in addition to the tank filter.
What follows is just in case it will help out.
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There
is a proper way to start the engine. Four controls are on your bike to assist
in starting. Below are generic instructions.
- The choke, used
when the engine is cold. Pull the red knob for choke.
- The " Hot
Start " Lever, used when the engine is hot. Pull the lever to lean
the fuel mix when the engine has been running.
- The de-compression
lever, always used.
- The throttle, used
to prime the cylinder, (power valve).
Don't
kick, instead, push
the kick lever downward. You will feel the back pressure as the piston is going
upward on the compression stroke to the point the pressure is great enough that
the kick lever "locks up". You are very close to TDC. NOW, pull in
the de-compression lever. Push the kick lever a little bit more to get the
piston past TDC. Now release the de-compression lever. Give the throttle a 1/4 turn then let it snap closed. A diaphragm,
(Power valve), in the carb gives a shot of gas when this is done. DO NOT
do this multiple times because you will flood the engine. Leave the
throttle closed when kicking. A flooded engine will often
backfire. Now give a strong kick through the full sweep of the kick start
lever. Quickly get your foot off the kick lever at the end of the kick to avoid
any chance of "kickback" from the kick lever. This happens in the
case of a misfire, aka > backfire. It can be very painful, and can even
break a leg. I am serious about that. Repeat the process (but without the
throttle priming), for six kicks. After six kicks go ahead and twist the
throttle again for a second priming. A good battery, a clean spark plug, a
clean carb and clean air filter will also aid in starting. Note that not
all carbs have a power valve. When a power valve is not present you should crack
the throttle open only 1/8 inch from closed on each kick.
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