Honda CBR 900 RR Fireblade - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

Question edited for clarity. Question moved from Misc to Model category. (W)ater (D)isplacement formula (40) is great for water intrusion, but possibly too late. Relays have 4 contacts if it is a relay and can be tested. It may be an electronic module though. like the ECM or a BCM if it has one. https://www.google.com/search?q=relay+testing+procedure The appears to be two relays, one for high beam and one for low. https://www.fireblades.org/threads/wiring-diagrams-93-95-98-99-900rr.57231/ Hope that helps.

If the switch is out put one in.

Might try removing or disconnecting the alarm to see if you have tripped an anti-theft circuit on the bike. If you have then you'll need to refer to your owner manual or local Honda dealer. If the bike works fine without the alarm then I would reset the alarm. I found the manual on Google pretty quickly

the stator produces ac power which is rectified by the rectifier pack to dc power which is what the electrics uses the voltage regulator controls the voltage to 14.5-14.8 volts dc the voltage regulator by controlling the voltage also controls the maximum out put from the stator or the current being produced to charge the battery and run the lights and what ever else you have connected hot stator and rectifier indicates uncontrolled out put so take it to an accredited bike electrician and have it fixed properly have the battery load tested as uncontrolled output will boil a battery and ruin it

Somethin is probly failin...get a clymer repairguide etc. An alternator or loose connect...but its an oldbike tu

Sorry the selector forks are gone and possibly some gears.

Check the ground for regulator or another ground that is common with lights and fuel pump if is there any.

Hi D"Jesus: Could be one of three things that I can think of: 1) The battery is at the end of its life. It can't hold a charge any more. Solution is to replace battery. 2) The electical system is not charging. You can check this with a voltmeter. With the engine off you will get maybe 12.2 volts. With the engine running it should increase by 1 to 2 volts. 3) The bike is not getting used much and something is draining the electrical system. Not too probable, but maybe you've wired in a stereo and left it playing? Kidding. But an example of a drain on the battery. Personally, I'd be betting on the dead battery. Hope this helps.

sounds like the shifting fork in the transmission is bad

There was a facelift model in 1996 so the fairings are slightly at the front as different as Honda came up with the fox/tiger eye headlights. Other than that, they look very similar including the tank. The support bracket which holds the top fairing on might be different. If you're buying these parts off the internet, I'd contact your local Honda dealer first as you could be stuck with these parts if they don't fit.

Sounds electrical, try checking for spark first. Don't ground the plug to the valve cover because it's made of magnesium and will burn a hole thru it. Or at least that's what I've heard.

It look likes it is your thermostat. It is located underneath the carbs, behind the engine block. It is inside an aluminium housing. You can strip the housing, cut the valve of the thermostat and put it back together. It will keep you going until you replace it. Just be gentle with the bike until it's fully warm, it will take longer without the stat. Franck

if carbs are worn, have them profesionally cleaned (you can do it yourself by dipping a day in CHEM DIP carburetor cleaner, of course you will need to disasemble ALL the carb and there are a lot of very small o rings take note where are they located, usually under a small washer thats been pressed by a spring and a setscrew) have new set of needle jets, and main jets (two numbers LEANER!!) Also buy an instrument that called a unisyn, when reasembly try that all carbs open EXACTLY at same time, all air jets should be opened 1 1/2 turns from closed. when starting, try to set a medium iddle, engine hot, use the unisyn, and try to sinch all the carbs the same. lower iddle further, and turn iddle air screw one cyl at a time, 1/8 turn each time, opening or closing, you should hear engine changing tone (IS NOT INMEDIATE and takes up to 30 seconds to tell the difference) until satisfied with THAT CYLINDER, go to the next cyl... until you have all four, by then the iddle is possible to have risen slightly... lower it again and do the air screw procedure again but with 1/16 turn or less each cyl. dont forget to clean the tank and tank strainer!

Multiple carbs need a carb sync tool to adjust.

Probably do-able but you will have to make sure you can support the bike from under the engine. Some bikes will allow this all depends on what is below the oil sump area. If you can support the bike from under the engine I would suggest getting an ABBA stand and a small car jack. With the front wheel raised remove front wheel, fork brace if fitted, mudguard and brake calipers ( I always hang the calipers on string tied to the handle bars. You will have to remove anything that is fixed to the fork sliders i.e. cable clamps, brake line unions and fixing bolts speedo cable clamps etc etc. Undo the top and bottom yoke clamp bolts the forks should then be able to be gently twisted out. Be very careful when twisting the fork legs as the yokes are quite hard metal and can easily score the chrome plating. Hope this helps

Basically yes, any wire that is not insulated can cause a short. Your bike engine, frame and all parts fixed to them are at negative potential. Lights work by switching the positive side of the circuit through the filament of the bulb and connecting to the negative. The resistance in the bulb filament creates light. Any bare wire or connection that holds a positive potential if it contacts with engine, frame, or another wire, will blow either a fuse or could damage regulator, ecu, or other expensive to replace electrical component. Keep all wire insulated bare wires cause grief.

Check that the terminals on the battery are tight. Look for corrosion on the 4 wire plug on the starter solenoid. unplug from solenoid to check and clean as required.

Replace the cable, the gear is slowly being stripped away.

A locksmith should be able to cut you a new key if you take them the ignition switch.