Honda CB 750 Nighthawk - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

Contact Honda directly to request the diagram or a source.

It's in your wiring you will have to chase it down hope this helps Merry Christmas

Since you've already proved that the bulb is OK, the problem must be with the socket or the wiring going to it. You are lucky that the problem seems to be with the running light filament rather than the turn direction filament since a turn signal electrical fault can be anywhere from the handlebar switch to the rear bulb socket. In your case, one bulb in the housing is being fed power so the problem has to be within the tail light area. I would remove both light bulbs from their sockets. With the running lights on, use a power meter to find which contact in the good side has 12 volts to ground. This will tell you which contact in the bad socket should have power. Look at the condition of the contact that is not working properly. If it has corrosion on it, turn the power to the lights off and rub the bad contact's area with an appropriately sized flat bladed screwdriver until it is shiny and clean. See if it now works. If it doesn't work, use an appropriately sized non-metal object (like a plastic or wooden screw driver handle) to try to push the contact pad inside the light socket in and out. There should be a spring behind the contact pad that keeps pressure on the contact pad when the bulb is inserted. If that spring and pad seem jammed inward, you may need to loosen it up so it has good contact. If the problem persists, look at the wiring harness at the tail light. There should be three wires entering the tail light. Two are for left and right signaling and one is for running light power. Examine the harness to see why the running light power is getting to one socket but not the other. The problem should be obvious either visually (corrosion or bent contacts) or by using the meter. If you are getting power TO the contact that drives the running lights and the bulb still doesn't light up then it must be the ground path between the socket and the rear fender area. It would take a lot of ugly corrosion to do this and the fact that the blinker part of the socket works makes it highly unlikely. Good Luck!

The valve timing is off.

if it has one it will be either on the end of the oil filler cap or just below the oil filler.if its not there it probably has an oil level sight glass on either the clutch cover or on the left hand crankcase.you may have to get on the floor with a torch to see it.

I don't think there is any on it; it has a show glass.

Does the clutch still operate ok ? Does the gear lever still move up and down with the usual springyness.or is it stiff .

obviously some people dont read the questions before they answer but my first question would be why are you wanting to replace the cam chain but that aside heres a reasonable tip for most of japenese overhead cam fourstrokes.......if you do in fact have a " master link" then remove your valve cover and magneto cover and get your timing marks lined up.Take a picture or make some marks with a sharpie or whatever you need to have a reference point for timing marks. Take 2 pieces of flexible coated wire like some heavy guage speaker wire and cut off prob 5 feet or so twice. Take one piece and loop it around the last roller in front of your link your removing and do the same to the other side. with those two tied off loosely to your frame from above remove your link. So the front side should be suspending the front half of the chain to the frame above and the rear side of the separated chain should be suspended by the other wire. Now join your new chain to the old chain hanging off the front side with your master link. remove all tension from your cam chain tensioner then your ready to do some threading. Lay your new chain off the front of the motor hanging down somewhere it wont be collecting debris. this is where you need an assistant. Have your friend hold the new chain up and off to the front and keep sufficient pressure so slack wont fall inside the motor and jam up then take the back side wire and start slowly with your right hand lifting the backside of the old chain out as your turning your magneto counterclockwise with your left hand. Make sure you and your friend keep sufficient pressure on the chain ends to keep the chain contacting the bottom sprocket. So the rear chain holder is actually pulling the old chain out and turning the whole rotating assembly with the magneto in a delicate dance till the new chain is up out of the rear casing and the friends chain is ready to get sucked into the front end. If its a dual overhead motor then drape the front slack over the front cam sprocket and have friend hold their hand ontop while the rear segment holder removes the old chain then drapes the end of the new chain over the rear sprocket then replace masterlink which should be acheivable if your cam chain tensioner was allthe way out Now reapply chain tension with tensioner and re verify all timing marks. any adjustments can be made right there between cams to line up everything. Buy your friend a 6 pack of suds and and go for a nice ride tomorrow after you and your friend have slept off the celebration 6 packs from last night. good luck

Need to remove, strip and clean the starter.

Replace your spark plug wires.

Could be your coil or coils breaking down due to remperature. Ok when cold but not when hot.

There is a main fuse near the battery. It looks like a strip of metal, (which it is). Hope that's all there it is to it. If the bike wont run expect a damaged computer.

The two short wires go to the center cylinders, two long to the outside cylinders. You will need the diagram to figure which coil wire goes where if you were unfortunate enough not to have marked them.

Is your oil filter a cartridge type,(not screw-on) it maybe installed backwards. Does it leave a spot on the floor... that oil goes somewhere. Maybe it dealership time?

put it on centre stand loosen of back wheel and take cover off over small sprocket loosen chain take it of front sprocket there should be a link on it you can split

Firing order: 1-2-4-3;

Yes, LED turn signal lights require a flasher rated for LED's. They are available in auto parts stores. As far as the now start goes, double check all wiring, making sure all the positives and all the negatives are correct. Check the ground wire from the battery. Make sure the connections are tight.

First, test for voltage at the plug that attaches to the headlight, if you have voltage at each terminal when set to it's respective hi or low position it could only be your headlight. If you don't have voltage then you need to work back from the wire to the switch and etc etc

That sounds normal. Dark smoke is excess fuel due to the choke. Could be that the carbs need cleaned.

You don't take the fender off, you just have to slide it back a little. There is enough play in the wiring harness to the fuse box to allow you to do that.