Hi, Anonymous you could have a faulty sending unit or gauge, there could be a problem with your wiring. On models with the fuel gauge posing as a left-hand fuel cap, the gauge is a press-fit do not try to unscrew it, simply apply ample force lift up in a rocking motion to remove the gauge. Disconnect wires to the gauge and with a set of positive and negative jumpers from the battery connect the positive jumper and flash the negative, the gauge should peg full, if not replace the gauge. With a test light check for power to the sending unit, then remove the sending unit and manually operate the float arm slowly with the correct wiring hooked up to the fuel gauge and sending unit and the ignition on, the gauge should respond accordingly if not replace the float arm assembly. If your fuel gauge registers the incorrect amount of fuel in the tank you can try bending the float arm the necessary amount up or down for a more accurate reading.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/softail-models/858236-want-to-remove-left-side-fuel-gauge-cap.htmlhttp://www.mediafire.com/file/l8mk1291i3fiprh/2000_Harley_FXD_Servive_Manual.pdf/filehttps://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmchttps://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/service/document/6300https://www.6ya.com/ to speak to me personally
Hi, Anonymous before diagnosing any brake light issue always check the bulb and fuse first for integrity a brake light staying on is usually caused by the front brake light switch, which is mechanical, not disengaging. In early models moving the throttle control housing closer to the front brake master cylinder is the main fix. On late models, the switch gets tweaked and needs to be realigned. A brake light that does not come on when the brake lever is applied can be caused by a faulty switch or no continuity in the wiring at the switch. The rear brake light switch is hydraulic and it is extremely rare to malfunction in a closed circuit condition causing the brake light to stay on. Usually, rear brake light switch issues are caused by no brake pedal free play or a sticky rear master cylinder piston. A brake light that does not come on when the rear brake pedal is depressed can be caused by a faulty switch, air contamination in the brake line, or no continuity in the wiring at the switch. Finally, most tail light wiring harnesses run under the rear fender held in place by spot-welded clips. Worn out rear shocks or lowered suspension can bottom out causing the rear tire to come in contact with the wiring harness, rubbing the insulation off, exposing the bare metal inner core, allowing it to break or short out.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Hi, Anonymous the vast majority of service, parts fiche, and owners manuals on the internet are "FREE" to download and all service manuals contain wiring diagrams in the back pages. The rest usually charge a modest fee from $7 to $15 and there is a handful of obscure, rare, obsolete, and very old models that are no longer or never were available, for these rare occasions I shall look on eBay and find the cheapest one available. Most of the manuals will cover your exact make, model, and year otherwise one will be provided that comes as close as possible to your bike and will have most of the same info that an exact manual would have. If there is no $ sign after the manual link it is free to download view and print.
To download your Harley manual for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://www.mediafire.com/file/65e9i0e80baqvhz/Harley-Davidson_Dyna_Service_Manual_2003.pdf/filehttps://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmchttp://mybikemanuals.com/harley-davidson/harley-davidson-dyna-glide-owners-manuals/https://www.6ya.com/ to speak to me personally
Hi, Anonymous before diagnosing any brake light issue always check the bulb and fuse first for integrity a brake light staying on is usually caused by the front brake light switch, which is mechanical, not disengaging. In early models moving the throttle control housing closer to the front brake master cylinder is the main fix. On late models, the switch gets tweaked and needs to be realigned. A brake light that does not come on when the brake lever is applied can be caused by a faulty switch or no continuity in the wiring at the switch. The rear brake light switch is hydraulic and it is extremely rare to malfunction in a closed circuit condition causing the brake light to stay on. Usually, rear brake light switch issues are caused by no brake pedal free play or a sticky rear master cylinder piston. A brake light that does not come on when the rear brake pedal is depressed can be caused by a faulty switch, air contamination in the brake line, or no continuity in the wiring at the switch. Finally, most tail light wiring harnesses run under the rear fender held in place by spot-welded clips. Worn out rear shocks or lowered suspension can bottom out causing the rear tire to come in contact with the wiring harness, rubbing the insulation off, exposing the bare metal inner core, allowing it to break or short out.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Hi, Anonymous before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries. All voltage readings will be on the DC scale except for Stator Output which will be AC you will need a multi-meter to conduct the following tests. "WARNING" never plug or unplug any electrical connector in the charging system with the engine running !!!
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. Check the voltage drop at the battery when you hit the starter button, anything below 9.6 volts you might have a faulty battery.
3. Make sure your voltage regulator is properly grounded with a clean tight connection, then check voltage at the battery with the bike running between 2000-3600 RPM, depending on your system specs, your readings should be 14.3 to 14.7 volts. If you are not getting these numbers or the reading is 15 volts or higher replace the voltage regulator.
4. Faulty regulator diodes can allow excessive amounts of voltage to go back to the battery causing it to overheat, boil its contents and swell the casing. The excessive voltage will also spike the charging system allowing light bulbs to surge brighter than normal until they fail along with the main circuit breaker.
5. Unplug the connector to the alternator and hook your multimeter leads to the alternator (pin/socket selection does not matter) set the multimeter to AC volts, at an idle the multimeter should read 16 to 20 volts AC. at 2,000 RPM 32 to 40 AC volts, 3,000 RPM 48 to 60 AC volts. If you are not getting these numbers, you may have a faulty alternator rotor.
6. Set the multimeter to OHM'S, connect one lead to the alternator (any pin/socket) and the other to the ground, the multimeter should read infinity. Connect both leads to the alternator multimeter should read 0.1 to 0.2 ohms. If you are not getting these numbers, you have a bad stator.
7. Check all wiring in the charging circuit for worn or chaffed spots and all wiring connectors in the circuit for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets, which is the # 1 offender.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Hi, Anonymous the best way to charge a battery is slowly. I like to use this analogy, would you rather be awakened from a deep sleep with gentle nudging or a violent kick in the rear.
1. Remove the battery and check for corroded or damaged terminals clean any dirt, corrosion or electrolyte that is on top of the battery as this will cause premature battery drain, inspect for cracks and swollen/expanded sides which are a sign of overheating and replacement should be seriously considered.
2. Acid plate type batteries should be checked with a hydrometer with recorded readings for each cell to be compared with after charging readings and for sulfation, the cell will appear milky, and incorrect acid level. Fill low levels with distilled water to the upper level and remove acid from overfilled cells with a hydrometer until the level is at the upper mark and dispose of acid in the sink mixed with a quart/litre of water.
3. Connect a voltmeter set on the DC scale to the battery and record the reading for comparison after charging.
4. Attach a drain hose that is not pinched, kinked, or plugged to the nipple on acid plate type batteries and let the other end hang into a plastic or styrofoam cup.
5. Connect a 1-2 amp trickle charger that has an automatic charge rate reduction if possible and let charge for 24 hours.
6. After charging recheck each cell with a hydrometer a 100% fully charged cell will have a specific gravity reading of 1.270-1.280 and 1.180-1.190 has only a 25% charge, the battery should be load tested and considered for replacement if necessary. Reconnect your voltmeter and
any readings in the 10-volt range means you have a dead cell and the battery needs to be replaced. Readings between any 2 cells of 50 points or more indicate the battery has failed and needs to be replaced.
7. No maintenance AGM or GEL batteries need to have a voltmeter reading of 12.8-13 volts for a full 100% charge and 12.2 volts is only a 25% charge and should be load tested and replaced if necessary.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing and printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Hi, Anonymous if your carburetor or exhaust is:
COUGHING is usually caused by an air leak in the intake system and will generally have the same telltale signs, a wet or damp build-up of oil/gas seepage at the intake manifold to the cylinder head or carburetor to intake manifold connection and in rare instances a worn throttle plate shaft and or seals.
POPPING on deceleration is usually caused by a lean fuel condition or an air leak in the exhaust system and is generally located where black carbon soot is seen as a flashing build-up from any joint connection. This condition can easily be remedied by removing and cleaning both joint pieces and reassembling with high temp silicone and torquing the exhaust clamp to the proper spec.
SPITTING is usually caused by a faulty accelerator pump and or nozzle, or the float bowl needle and seat leaking and overflowing through the main jet mixing well nozzle, or the air-fuel mixture screw is adjusted too lean.
BACKFIRING is usually caused by a sticky/tight intake valve or a timing issue, 180 degrees out or cam chain off 1or 2 teeth.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Hi, Anonymous before diagnosing your blown fuse issue, check the bottom of your seat, if its metal and comes in close proximity to the positive battery post you need to take the necessary steps to ensure there is no contact (electrical tape, thick rubber insulation, hammer a dent in the seat bottom, etc.) You are going to need a wiring diagram from your service manual, a test light, an ohmmeter and plenty of extra fuses.
If you turn on your ignition switch and immediately blow a fuse you have a hard/dead short and is usually easy to find. With a test light connected to the hot side of the blown fuse holder start stabbing the wire/s that leads away from the fuse holder and towards the ignition switch, your test light will illuminate validating the short. When the test light fails to illuminate you have passed the short and need to back up until the test light illuminates, then look in the immediate area for the short.
If you driving down the road for 30 minutes or 15 miles and blow a fuse you have soft/flying short and may take some time and patience to find.
If the main fuse/circuit breaker constantly blows/trips while riding you probably have a faulty battery terminal connection. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary. Any other fuses that constantly keep blowing while riding are usually caused by a loose or corroded ground wire in the circuit, which means you have to check, inspect, test each and everyone with an ohmmeter set on a low ohm scale of 100 ohms or less. Simply touch one lead to the ground source and the other lead to the battery negative terminal, a reading of zero indicates a clean solid ground. Any reading or infinity indicates poor ground and needs to be repaired. Poor or weak grounds require excessive additional amperage to complete the circuit which in turn blows the small amperage fuse.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.v-twinforum.com/threads/light-and-accessory-fuses-keep-blowing-when-i-turn-on-the-ignition-switch.421578/#post-4311849http://www.mediafire.com/file/l8mk1291i3fiprh/2000_Harley_FXD_Servive_Manual.pdf/filehttps://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmchttps://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/service/document/6300https://www.6ya.com/ to speak to me personally
