I have the same problem with my Roadking except it wasnt dropped. I did a full alignment of rear tire to engine, aligned the rear tire to front tire, aligned the engine and replaced the front motor mount. Nobody seems to have an answer, that I've talked to anyway. If you find a cure let me know, If I find one I'll let you know.
Question edited for FULL 'year make model'.
Question moved from 'Power Motorcycles' to correct category.
Help in the link, crank sensor or ignition module are the most likely causes.
https://www.google.com/search?q=2001+fxdl+no+spark
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Hi, Anonymous if your headlight is not working, intermittent, only one beam works at a time, keeps burning out, blinking, dim or surges from bright to dim to bright the first thing you need to check is the headlight bulb for damaged filaments then check your light circuit fuse, then check your headlight bulb socket ground wire for a clean tight connection, that being said the usual suspects are:
1. Faulty ground or power supply wire to the headlight bulb socket.
2. Worn down solder contacts or loose fit of the bulb base in the socket due to vibration.
3. Worn, chafed, or broken wires in the light circuit.
4. Corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets in wire connectors.
5. Faulty hi/low beam switch.
6. Faulty ignition switch.
7. Fuse is good but no continuity on both sides.
8. Faulty headlight relay.
9. Faulty wiring between battery positive and headlight bulb socket.
10. Weak charging alternator/generator/lighting coil
11. Faulty voltage regulator/rectifier ground or overcharging.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-glide-models/106572-rear-brake-light-not-working.htmlhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WGZmoGWowWchttp://www.mediafire.com/file/l8mk1291i3fiprh/2000_Harley_FXD_Servive_Manual.pdf/filehttp://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmchttps://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/service/document/6300https://www.6ya.com/ to speak to me personally
I doubt you are going to find an online repair/service manual for your Harley. Harley-Davidson is very protective of their copyrighted material. From time to time, you may see something online on the repair and servicing of H-D motorcycles but it doesn't stay there long. I would suspect that the webmaster gets a call from Harley's legal department. You can buy an OEM manual from your local shop or licensed dealers or you can get one of the other manuals such as a Clymers. Look at it this way, if you manage to fix one thing on your bike using the manual as a guide, at todays labor prices, the manual just paid for itself and the rest is free.
You need to check your front wheel bearing you will get a wobble from a collapsed wheel bearing,I've had it happen to me on my fireblade and since then I replace my bearings every spring when I'm about to get back on the road after winter,just see if your front wheel moves side to side even if there is slight play. Hope this helps. Adrian.
Maybe it is (sort of) running out of gas. Check no blockages to fuel tank breather that causes a vacuum in the tank and holds back the fuel flow, check the fuel filter, look for kinked lines etc. Fuel can be getting through, but just enough to idle or run slowly. Put the engine under load by riding faster and consequently increase the amount of fuel needed to run the engine faster and the "fuel starvation" effect is highlighted.
There are other possible causes of course, but the above checks don't cost anything.
Sooner or later, every bike will need a new chain and sprockets. Once a chain begins to wear, its pitch changes and wears the sprocket teeth. Then the chain begins to wear even faster. Then it's time for a new chain, and a new pair of sprockets.
The rear wheel on my motorcycle had been misaligned (I had used the inaccurate etched indicators on the swingarm-rather than a ruler against the sprocket-to set wheel alignment) and ridden hard through a gritty, salty winter. The rear sprocket was in rough shape, and the chain was making lots of popping sounds as the bike went down the road.
Changing a chain is a fairly basic job that requires a chain breaker / riveting tool and whatever is needed to remove the rear wheel and sprockets. It's nice to have a blow torch and a torque wrench on hand for this job, too.
The ingenious Terra-X chain tool is made in Australia out of tool steel, and weighs just 150 grams. A big hollow bolt threads into the bigger of the two holes, and is used when pressing outer plates onto new master links. A smaller bolt with a pin can thread into the hollow bolt, and is used to push link pins out of old chains or to peen new master link pins by pushing them against a grub screw threaded into the steel body's other hole. That little grub screw with a rounded steel end screws into the smaller hole of the chain breaker. It fits into and peens the hole of the new master link.
When changing a chain, the first step is to loosen the bolts on the front sprocket. It's good to get those loose while the chain is still on the bike, partly to avoid putting undue stress on the transmission, and partly to avoid getting deep into the job and finding that the front sprocket bolts are stuck. In this case, the small allen bolts needed a bit of heat to come undone.
After the bolts are loose, it's time to break the chain. With the Terra-X chain tool, you remove the small grub screw and use the small bolt with the pin to push out one of the chain's pins. No grunting or swearing required.
Then comes sprocket replacement. Six nuts on the rear sprocket, the two bolts on the front sprocket, and that step is done. I had a torque wrench handy, so I could get the torque values just right when putting everything back together.
The next step is the big one: installing the master link that joins the ends of the new chain together. The master link comes with a little bag with some X-Rings, a master link, and some sticky tan lube. Smear the lube on the pins and inside the X-Rings, then begin to assemble the master link around the two ends of the chain, making sure to get the X-Rings in the right spots.
Pressing the outer plate onto the master link is the hardest part of the job. I removed the pin bolt from the Terra-X tool and used the hollow bolt to push the outer plate onto the master link's pins. It took a few tries, but eventually I got it in the correct position.
After the sprockets are on and the master link is in position, the master link's pins need to be peened. With the Terra-X, the pin bolt pushes the master link pin against the grub screw's steel ball, and flares the pin. It takes a lot of effort-mostly because it's not easy to get a lot of leverage on tools when they're underneath a motorcycle.
Position the wheel for proper chain tension, torque everything to the correct specs, and you're back on the road. The new chain is smooth, nearly silent, and ready for thousands of miles of high-speed running.
Simplest way is to go to a dealer, give him the VIN number and get the correct key to fit both lock and ignition switch. A new set of keys is cheaper than a steering lock and ignition key, even aftermarket ones.
1. Remove seat.
Always disconnect the negative cable first. If the positive
cable should contact ground with the negative cable
installed, the resulting sparks may cause a battery explosion
which could result in serious injury.
2. Disconnect battery cables, negative cable first.
3. Unscrew ignition/light lock ring. Push switch back through hole.
4. Cut switch wires approximately 3.0 in. (76 mm) from switch body. The new switch must be spliced into existing wiring harness using splice connectors.
5. After splicing new switch into wire harness, place switch into position. The word "TOP" is marked on the top of the switch body to allow for proper positioning of switch. 6. Install lock ring to secure switch in place.
1. Remove seat.1WARNINGTo avoid accidental start-up of vehicle and possible personalinjury, disconnect the battery cables before proceeding.Inadequate safety precautions could result indeath or serious injury.WARNINGAlways disconnect the negative cable first. If the positive cable should contact ground with the negative cable installed, the resulting sparks may cause a battery explosion which could result in death or serious injury.2. Disconnect battery cables, negative cable first.3. Unscrew ignition/light lock ring. Push switch back through hole.4. Cut switch wires approximately 3.0 in. (76 mm) from switch body. The new switch must be spliced into existing wiring harness using splice connectors.5. After splicing new switch into wire harness, place switch into position. The word "TOP" is marked on the top of the switch body to allow for proper positioning of switch. 6. Install lock ring to secure switch in place.
I have used synthetic oil since my first oil change at 1,000 miles. It now has 65,000 and does not burn any oil between changes at 5,000. You can buy the synthetic at your local Harley dealer. They have one oil now that can be used in all three applications. Otherwise buy any brand of synthetic that you can find at the best price.
