Question edited for FULL 'year make model'.
Question moved from 'Power Motorcycles' to correct category.
Help in the link, crank sensor or ignition module are the most likely causes.
https://www.google.com/search?q=2001+fxdl+no+spark
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Hi, Anonymous if your headlight is not working, intermittent, only one beam works at a time, keeps burning out, blinking, dim or surges from bright to dim to bright the first thing you need to check is the headlight bulb for damaged filaments then check your light circuit fuse, then check your headlight bulb socket ground wire for a clean tight connection, that being said the usual suspects are:
1. Faulty ground or power supply wire to the headlight bulb socket.
2. Worn down solder contacts or loose fit of the bulb base in the socket due to vibration.
3. Worn, chafed, or broken wires in the light circuit.
4. Corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets in wire connectors.
5. Faulty hi/low beam switch.
6. Faulty ignition switch.
7. Fuse is good but no continuity on both sides.
8. Faulty headlight relay.
9. Faulty wiring between battery positive and headlight bulb socket.
10. Weak charging alternator/generator/lighting coil
11. Faulty voltage regulator/rectifier ground or overcharging.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-glide-models/106572-rear-brake-light-not-working.htmlhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WGZmoGWowWchttp://www.mediafire.com/file/l8mk1291i3fiprh/2000_Harley_FXD_Servive_Manual.pdf/filehttp://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmchttps://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/service/document/6300https://www.6ya.com/ to speak to me personally
You need to check your front wheel bearing you will get a wobble from a collapsed wheel bearing,I've had it happen to me on my fireblade and since then I replace my bearings every spring when I'm about to get back on the road after winter,just see if your front wheel moves side to side even if there is slight play. Hope this helps. Adrian.
Maybe it is (sort of) running out of gas. Check no blockages to fuel tank breather that causes a vacuum in the tank and holds back the fuel flow, check the fuel filter, look for kinked lines etc. Fuel can be getting through, but just enough to idle or run slowly. Put the engine under load by riding faster and consequently increase the amount of fuel needed to run the engine faster and the "fuel starvation" effect is highlighted.
There are other possible causes of course, but the above checks don't cost anything.
Yes, it should fit. Typically, the only thing that would cause it to not fit would be the inside diameter of the wheel bearings. As I remember, the 02 and 03 Dynas had a 3/4" axle but I could be wrong. It is a simple matter to knock the bearings out and replace them with a different inside diameter to fit your axle.
The alarm will reset automatically or you can turn it off with the fob. If you cannot turn it off using the fob, then maybe the fob battery is flat. Replace it with a CR2032 and try again. If the alarm keeps ringing no matter what, then you may have a faulty TSSM module. All Harleys will reset the alarm if bike is turned off and left alone. By the way, have you removed the bike battery? If you have and did not disconnect it correctly (turn off alarm using fob, turn ignition on, disconnect battery) then the alarm siren will sound until its own backup battery goes flat. If this is the case, turn on ignition switch before fitting the battery.
To check the STATOR. Turn ignition key switch OFF, then disconnect the voltage regulator connector from alternator stator wiring. THEN connect an ohmmeter set on the RX1 scale with one lead into either of the stator sockets and the other lead to a good ground. And test for continuity - a good stator will show no continuity (0 ohms) across either stator socket - any other reading indicates a grounded stator which must be replaced. THEN remove the ground lead and insert lead it into the other stator socket - the resistance (with ohmmeter still set on the RX1 scale)should be 0.1-0.2 ohms - if the resistance is lower a stator short is indicated. Which means that the stator is damaged and must be replaced. - if the resistance is higher (OL on meter), an open is indicated and again, the stator is damaged and must be replaced. You should check socket 1 to 2 then 1 to 3 then 2 to 3. ( If you have a two wire stator you would check 1 to 2)
Before testing short out the ohmmeter leads against each other and if they do not produce a reading of0 ohms subtract the reading you do get from any readings you get doing the stator checks in order to get accurate stator circuit readings, otherwise you may have out of range reading due to the internal and/or lead resistance of the ohmmeter.
hi i had a simular problem with my 98 fxd turn out to be the vacuim opperated fuel tap i blocked off the vac pipe to the fuel tap and put a high flow tap in the tank all you gota remember is to turn fuel on and off but it sorted out the cutting out good luck
Get a multimeter (you can get one from under $10).
Set the scale for D.C. Voltage, and connect it to the two battery terminals, observing polarity!
Start bike and read meter.
Should be around 13-14 volts.
It should rise slightly when you rev the engine.
If you don't get these readings, shut off engine, and disconnect wiring from alternator to regulator.
Set meter's scale to A.C. Voltage, and connect to alternator leads (polarity doesn't matter on A.C. Voltage).
Start engine and read meter.
Output depends on how high your alternator is rated.
I've seen it as low as 25 volts, and as high as 40 volts.
Whatever you get, it should rise when you rev the engine.
If the alternator isn't reading right, that's your problem.
If the alternator's reading right, but the output from the regulator isn't, then the regulator's the problem.
Usually, the regulator goes before the alternator does.
Well,I would suggest you to buy a Service Manual and Repair...
This manual will help you in all the steps you will need to fix a problem...
Voila...Thank you.
See below. Are you aware of this recall? Do you know if the bike has been checked?
HARLEY-DAVIDSON MOTOR COMPANY
Make / Models : Model/Build Years:
HARLEY-DAVIDSON - FXD - 2009 HARLEY-DAVIDSON - FXDB - 2009 HARLEY-DAVIDSON - FXDC - 2009 HARLEY-DAVIDSON - FXDF - 2009 HARLEY-DAVIDSON - FXDL - 2009
NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number:
Recall Date:
DEC 10, 2008
Component:
STRUCTURE - MOTORCYCLE KICKSTAND - CENTER STAND
Potential Number Of Units Affected:
Summary:
HARLEY-DAVIDSON IS RECALLING 3,285 MY 2009 FXD, FXDF, FXDC, FXDL, AND FXDB MOTORCYCLES. THE JIFFY STAND SPRING ANCHOR MAY HAVE BEEN BUILT WITH A DEFECTIVE WELD THAT MAY ALLOW THE JIFFY STAND ASSEMBLY TO NOT RETRACT AS INTENDED.
Consequence:
HIS CONDITION COULD LEAD TO A CRASH WHICH COULD CAUSE INJURY OR DEATH TO THE RIDER.
Remedy:
DEALERS WILL REMOVE THE ORIGINAL JIFFY STAND SPRING ANCHOR AND REPLACE IT WITH A NEW SPRING ANCHOR FREE OF CHARGE. THE RECALL IS EXPECTED TO BEGIN ON OR ABOUT DECEMBER 22, 2008. OWNERS MAY CONTACT HARLEY-DAVIDSON AT 1-414-342-4680.
Notes:
HARLEY-DAVIDSON RECALL NO. 0137. CUSTOMERS MAY ALSO CONTACT THE NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY ADMINISTRATION'S VEHICLE SAFETY HOTLINE AT 1-888-327-4236 (TTY 1-800-424-9153), OR GO TO HTTP://WWW.SAFERCAR.GOV.
It sounds like a faulty switch but could also be wear, looseness and play in the shift drum, however if your shifting is normal it is likley the switch.
Speaking generally about bike electronics and not to your specific model I would recommend the following. ALWAYS BUY A MANUAL FOR THE BIKE. This will have the specs you need.
What speed are you running the engine at when you do your test?
If engine speed is too low you will get a low reading. Check the manual for the ideal tick over speed and be sure that you have the rate right. Run the engine at 5000 rpm and test again to see if you get a rise in voltage output above battery level. 13.5 to 14.5 is OK.
Next, check the connections carefully. If there are loose or corroded connections, tighten and/or clean them. Check ALL the wiring to and from the alternator. Often that is the problem and it is foolish to condemn a perfectly good alternator and replace it, only to find the problem still exists. Most charging problems on bikes are caused by corrosion at the connections. On the other hand, a short will simply cause new components to also fail. Check carefully.
Once you have done that, load up the alternator by turning everything electrical on and checking the output voltage again. You are looking for at least battery voltage + .5 volts and if you get a little more than that, the alternator is fine.
If you have an external voltage regulator/rectifier and the voltage is still low, replace it and try again.
Next make sure that the system is cooling correctly. Some bikes use both air and oil cooling for the electrical charging system and both need to work well or the system will break down due to excessive heat.
Your battery should read between 12.4 and 12.8 volts. If not, it will need checking and possibly replacing. Under 12v dump it.
Now check the OHMS rating for the stator. This is done by checking the output wires (Disconnected and typically three wires) from the stator. Check the specifications for your bike, but typically you need to find a reading between 0.1 AND 2 OHMS. Check across all three wires. Then check there is no short to the case from all three wires with the meter still in OHMS setting. If there is and you get a reading, the stator is dying and needs replacing.
You may not be able to test the rectifier/regulator but if you can do so, check the manual for the specs and then test it accordingly.
Next you need to check the output voltage of the stator. Again, your manual will give you the exact specs but generally speaking you are looking for around 75 volts AC.
Ground the black lead from the meter to an earth point on the bike. Any good earth point will do.
With the leads from the stator disconnected, start the bike and run it at 5000 rpm. Check the AC voltage (set the meter to AC voltage) and make sure it is the same reading across all the wires (typically, three wires). As I said, typically around 75 volts.
A lower than spec reading will indicate a stator or rotor problem and replacement is going to have to happen.
Hope this helps.
its like 7 dollars just get a new one if its clicking it might need a new battery i got one of the new gel batteries ,if bat is good it probly needs a new solenoid
