Gilera Motorcycles - Page 5 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Try testing the voltage in the battery should be around the 13 volt mark. Remove battery from bike (undo negative lead first) and see if battery will charge. Do not use a car charger it will damage the battery. Use a charger that has an out put of less than 1 amp, if the battery accepts the charge leave it for a few hours. Refit the battery to the bike (connect positive lead first). If this does not work try looking at fuses could be one or more have blown. A few afterthoughts come to mind 1. do you have an engine run/stop switch and is it in the run position. 2. does the clutch lever have to be operated to start the bike. 3 is the bike in neutral.

Turn the screw all the way in snug clockwise then 3/4 turn counterclockwise. Then stop. You should be ready to start the motor.

Hmmmm. I'll look at dates first, next time. This might have helped, two years ago! http://www.scootershack.co.uk/threads/scooter-rollers-how-they-work-and-how-to-set-them-up.11966/ At least I learned what a variation is! all the best.

Hello Alvin! Had to do some research on your machine and hoped there is a "Users Group" where you could go for help. No joy. You are stuck with me...?? If your scooter has spent a lot of time outdoors, I'd be suspicious of corrosion in the electrical connections. I own an Italian machine myself ('87 Alfa) and ground connections have been troublesome. Start with you battery connections, making sure they are clean and sound. In fact, remove both and check carefully inside the cable sheaths, where the wires can be damaged. Clean the terminals well before putting the cables back on. Then start looking closely on the frame for ground attachments. Disconnect any you find and clean the frame attachment point and the wire connector. A light sanding should clean things up. If things are still not right, start pulling each connector you can find and inspect for corrosion. Be careful, since old plastic can snap, so try to figure out how they come apart before overpowering them. Usually a "release" pin of some sort. You have no doubt noticed by now I'm giving very general advice, since I've obviously never seen your Gilera. Frankly, many electrical gremlins in older machines are caused by corrosion and I suspect you may find this is your problem. All the best.

You are a bit short on information to get any help - "doesn't work" also doesn't give anyone a place to start. WHAT DOESN'T WORK?

could be a loose (or cracked) spark-plug connector better install a new one - as it is quite short sometimes during installation this spark-plug cable assembly gets damaged...!

Grip...? I'm imagining the most beastly of 50cc's doing smoky burnouts while going up a hill.... Naw that's not right. If the back tire won't spin freely I'd check the brake tension or wheel bearing. On a 50cc the power is so low anyway that this may be the only problem you have.

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Not sure what this is on but carb needle valve n seat are leaking by. Don't try starting could cause a fire. Drain oil and refill with new as mnf recommends. Replace needle valve n seat in carb.

Clean plugs new fuel new battery. If you change one thing at a time you will know the problem. Lasts seasons fuel is the biggest culprit then it clogs up the plugs and delivers. Just dump the fuel.

Worth a try.

try spraying with wd40 or alternative oil,

on the x9500 that uses the same engine there's a reset button to press after a service hidden under a front panel, on some of the other Piaggios it's reset by using bottons on the speedo. so sorry I can't actually tell you on this model, but it will be along those lines.

Hi davohoh. Sorry for not replying sooner. Not sure how much help I can be other than relating my own experience of this. I've "stored" my own Piaggio MP3 250 (1997 model) a few times for "extended periods" and never really had a problem .... (except once when it didn't want to unlock the tilt mechanism and just beeped at me when I tried - after trying many many times it just did it and never failed again) .... until the last time in July 2014 when I had your ALARM problem. It had been parked on June 15th when I went on holiday and left for 25 days - I returned on July 10th. When I turned the key and the ignition lights all came on so did the alarm, sounding loud and constantly. Turned it off and back on - still the alarm. Repeated several times - still the alarm. Seem to remember trying to unlock the tilt mechanism - can't remember if it did or not but the alarm kept sounding. Tried starting it and I think it took a while turning over (definitely not an immediate fire-up - but this was probably down to it standing for almost 4 weeks) before bursting into life but it did start. I thought this was quite surprising given the alarm was still going off and IF it thought it was being stolen, or was an immobiliser issue, that this would be possible. I then definitely unlocked the tilt mechanism and rode it a very short distance (20 feet) - the alarm was still sounding. Stopped, turned off the ignition and back on again. Think the alarm went off again and I started it again. Not absolutely sure but either the alarm just stopped sounding as the bike was ticking over, or it did after I turned it off/on and started it another once or twice. Once it was "silent" it never went off again. Stopped, started, drove, parked, left overnight, left 3 or 4 days, never had the same problem again in the 8 weeks since. Strangely enough another fault got "fixed" whilst it was parked for these 25 days. The remote control key unlocking of the seat catch had stopped working and hadn't worked for several weeks at least (possibly months) despite attempts to fix it (reprogramming?) as per a few suggestions I'd found on the Internet. Sadly despite working for about 7 weeks since July 10th this failed a few days ago and I can no longer open the seat using the key. The little green LED flashes on the key but there is just no click from the actuating solenoid. I need to look into this further - even change the battery in the key - just a thought ! Hope this helps

Check your starter. It sounds like this is the culprit.

run a bead of clear silicone between bezel and glass. You might want to mask off the clear glass and cut a small gap about 1/8" into the glass with a razor blade or X-acto knife (they will not scratch glass - if it is glass). Then use the clear silicone - let it start to harden for an hour (pull tape off before it sets completely).

Have someone get the error codes from your car's computer with an OBD or OBDII scan tool. That light means you have a problem that needs repair, and the error code will identify what's wrong.

Most bulbs have the description stamped on them. Quickest way is to read these. Apologies if this sounds flippant, just an idea

no it has to be replaced it is sealed very well