BMW R 1150 RT (ABS - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

85k is nothing for these engines, it the rest of the cycle parts that may have issues: Check the clutch does not slip. check the gearbox selects all gears. A little whine is ok,, but no jumping out of gear etc check around the final drive,, shaft tunnel up to the back of the gearbox for oil leaks. a good test ride is essential, and I would recommend joining one of the numerous BMW forums for more help. Ignore the other answer.

Take your car to an exhaust specialist and they will tell you what your options are for repair work. Ultimately though the steel system will show more and more corrosion of the type you are seeing now and you are going to have to replace it anyway. Once up on a lift for closer inspection, there also may well be more holes you have not found yet. If you intend to keep the car for some years you should replace it.

Abs light comes on when the abs system fails not when the pads need replacing Could be a sensor on one of the hubs or a ring is corroded away and the rotation is not registering Pump could be faulty only way to find out is to get the fault codes read

Hi, I've heard of problems being caused with the ABS on BMWs because of battery problems. Sounds daft I know but it seems that unless the battery is 100% there can be many odd electrical gremlins. Easier to check than having to replace parts of the ABS kit. Good luck. Stan

It does "self clear". Alternatively disconnect the battery and reconnect after about a minute and resetting will take place then.

Check the voltage when under load (starting) if it drops below 9volts then the battery is sulfated and you'll need a new one. I had this recently with my K1100. Battery read 12.8 volts across the terminals but fell to 4 v under load. New battery fixed it.

Disconnect and reconnect the battery.

Pre load it before pulling in the clutch

Probably not. These bikes are famous for smoking on startup. The horizontal mounting of the pistons allows oil to seep past the rings when stopped. Try putting the bike on the centerstand when stopping instead of the sidestand, or when you stop, keep the bike upright while you are pulling off your gloves and helmet. Try to give it at least 30 seconds before you put it on the sidestand. This gives most of the oil a chance to return to the crankcase before being leaned over. I think you will notice the improvement. Good luck, and safe riding.

What bike do you have and when was it last serviced?

One quart bottle is more than enough. You fill it to till it starts to come out the fill hole.

price of the motor. replace it yourself. It is straight forward.

The leak is, as you say,is not from the seal it is from the press fitted parts on the gearset. Take the wheel off and you may find some oil in the central 'hole' on the bevel box. Maybe a previous owner used to much heat changing the bevel box large output bearing previously? The bad news is you will need a replacement final drive (plenty of good ones on ebay). All R11XX bevel boxes are interchangeable, although there are differences in the drive ratio (stamped near the breather). Having said all this, I do know of someone who stuffed a sock into the central hole to soak up the leak and carried on for another 6k!

Check the fluid level in the rear brake reservoir. Don't know where it goes, but it needs to be replenished from time to time.

No it does not

R1150RT is not water cooled. there is no coolant in this bike.

most likely spun a rod bearing if the oil ran low..the oil amount is very small and leaks are deadly for small engines..be looking for another engine if youre gonna keep the bike..sorry the truth hurts abit..mine was a 76 honda 200 and a 79 kawasaki .. traded the 750 for a flatbed trailer I used behind my suburban for years..

battery on its way out

The battery may be flat, charge it, and check the connections on it are firm.