Beta Motorcycles - Page 9 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

tires control lights oil, chassis, stands,,,

but here's my question. I have a alp.4 that I crashed. After the crash the bike would start but when put in to gear it immediately stalled and died. I took it to a mechanic and they said it was a simple adjustment that needed to be made so they did it charged me for an hour of labor and sent me home. When I got home the clutch worked again, but after a few times taking the battery in and out to charge it, the clutch problem is happening again. Does anyone know what the problem is exactly and how I might be able to solve it? The mechanics and some friends of mine have both said it's a simple adjustment, but I don't know what to do. Thanks.,When you put it in gear and it dies, is the sidestand still down? This will kill most bikes..... saftey features Wink . Even if the stand is up when this happens, the switch that activates this shut-off my be playing up and causeing the bike to die. Does the idle seem to be set very low now?,,,

headlight front signals some fuses; cleaned carbs; repainted. When I received it it was hard to start. Had to kick it into submission and the choke plunger would not stay out. I've since tightened up the choke plunger friction nut and reclamped it towards the carbs (after cleaning the carbs). Problem #1: I can't remember exactly how the clamp is supposed to be positioned on the bottom of the cable: on the metal cylinder? On the indented part of it? And I have a rubber boot on the carb end of it; this boot just slides around and doesn't seem to even fit over the indented end of the metal cylinder. Problem #2: High idle or no start problem: The only way I can get the bike to start cold is to unclamp the cable (tank off) and yank on the cable. As the bike warms up I let the cable go and clamp it down at the point where the choke plate/linkage/butterfly/whatever is completely closed at the carb and no rise in idle is happening. Then I have a nice idle at 1200 +- 100rpm. While the bike starts right up when hot using this setup, it won't start cold unless I go through the rigamarole again. If I clamp the cable in a position so that it will start cold next time, then once the bike warms up and I turn off the choke, the idle falls at 2500rpm. The choke plate is definitely still open at the carb. It almost seems like the cable is wrong for the bike. I seem to need a larger variance in cable length between choke-on and choke-off. I wouldn't be surprised if the previous owners did something funky with aftermarket parts. Help? ,sound like u got both---send it to the mechanic,,,

long-armed brush is usually the best way scrub off brake dust and dirt. Apply a wheel cleaner first and let it settle before scrubbing it off. Chrome wheels will require specific cleaners so be aware of your wheel's finish before purchasing a cleaner. Don't use tire dressing products as their glossy finishes can compromise grip,,

I pull in the clutch and when I put it in first gear it either jumps forward and stalls or wants to move forward but doesn't quite stall. After the bike warms up the problem goes away. I am pretty familiar with clutches in cars and in general (I'm a mechanic) but I just want some opinions. Could it be air in the system that takes a warm up cycle to go away? Or is this a common problem with Monsters? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!The clutch slave can be difficult to bleed. It sounds like you have air in there. I'd bleed it and zip tie the lever to the grip overnight. That will allow air to return to the master. Another issue could be sticky plates in the clutch pack. Does the bike get ridden infrequently?,,,

1.Get your supplies ready and expose your engine 2.Unscrew the Oil Filler Cap 3.Remove the Oil Drain Plug 4.Remove and Replace the Crush Washer 5.Clean the Oil Drain Plug 6.Remove the Oil Filter 7.Remove and Clean Plastic Mesh Filter 8.Lubricate the O-ring of the New Filter and Attach it to the Engine 9.Motorcycle Oil Change - Replace Oil Drain Plug & Plastic Mesh Filter Pour Oil 10.Check the Oil Level,,

I'm close to finished on my '82 Nighthawk project. I just recently rebuilt the carbs including new bowl gaskets. I'm still getting leakage around a couple of the bowls enough that it is quite a problem. If the new gaskets didn't fix which I was planning on them doing, then what should I do? ,What one of my friends did is buy gasket fabric from an auto store and cut a gasket for himself. That should be a suitable replacement, as its gasoline resistant and tempereature rated to a few hundred degrees (not that carbs get that hot anyway) Alternatively, could your carbs be leakinig around the supply line? Im nont s ure how it is in hondas, but on some yams like mine, the fuel supply is through a banjo-bolt. If one of the washers is lose, you could have fuel from the carb bowls drip back out through the supply line, especially with the bike on the kickstand.,,,

it takes it a sec or two for the engine to respond. For instance if I'm in neutral and all of a sudden I give it some gas for about a second it'll be like I haven't touched it, stays the same sound and all, and then revs up. It's like it's delayed or something. This happens on and off with it.,Stabbing in the dark...... jetting too rich(pilot jets)?, choke sticking?, air screws out of adjustment? carbs out of balance? time warp messing with your perception?,,,

Put it up on your stand lossen the axel and remove the bolt on the bottom of the shock. Then tighten your chain and lift your swingarm up until its horizontal with the ground, then the chain should have almost no play. Not completely tight, but almost no play. Tighten the axel, and the bolt on the shock, and your set,,,

If your motorcycle has a center stand use it for long term storage. If you're not riding for several weeks and don't have a center stand you may want to consider carefully propping up the bike using blocks. Don't do more harm than good by dropping your bike while attempting to prop it up! If done correctly lifting your motorcycle will alleviate stress on the suspension and tires. Inflate your tires to the maximum recommended pressure will maintain their shape, since cooling temperatures will make the pressurized air contract. If the ground might potentially freeze, try to keep the tires off the ground using wood blocks.,,,

A bucket for soapy water Soap or liquid detergent; automotive cleaners will work Gloves (to keep your hands clean) Bug and tar remover Degreaser and/or engine cleaner A toothbrush WD40 A brush for wheel cleaning Wheel cleaner At least two microfiber or 100% cotton sponges A variety of soft cotton towels and more abrasive rags A chamois cloth for drying

Check the ground

Have you tryed a new bulb? They are cheap. Check the fuses anyway. Check the wireing in the lighting circiut for bare spots that may be grounding out.

Yes All motorcycle chains currently being manufactured use Buna-N (Nitrile) rubber for their o-rings and x-rings and all these manufacturers recommend kerosene as a cleaner. Here's the formulation of WD-40: 80% Stoddard Solvent (that is similar to kerosene) 20% light lubricating oil and a bit of fragrance. Here's the compatibility of Stoddard Solvent with rubbers and plastics: Good Compatibility (OK for both static and dynamic seals) Buna-N (Nitrile) Chemraz Epichlorohydrin Fluorocarbon Fluorosilicone Kalrez Nitrile, hydrogenated Polyacrylate Teflon, virgin Mixed Compatibility (OK for static seals, but not for dynamic seals) Neoprene Vamac Fair Compatibility (OK for some static seals) Polysulfide Polyurethane, millable Poor Compatibility Butyl Ethylene-Propylene Hypalon Natural rubber Silicone Styrene Butadiene Consequently, WD-40 is safe and effective as a chain cleaner and corrosion inhibitor. Link: http://www.efunda.com/designstandard...dard%20Solvent If you clean with a soft brush and WD-40, and plan to follow-up with a chain lube, you can reduce chain lube sling-off if you first remove the oil residue that WD-40 leaves. This residue seems to prevent some chain lube formulations from sticking well to the chain.,,,

Various wrenches. A soft brush or old toothbrush. An O-ring friendly chain cleaner (if like most chains yours is of an o-ring type.) O-ring friendly chain lubricant (again, if applicable.) A new cotter pin (when adjusting the chain tension.) Rags (for wiping grime off the chain.) A rubber mallet (optional.) A rear wheel stand (optional.) A tape measure (optional.,,,

Bowden cables like your clutch cable work on the law of the lever. Think of lifting up a heavy weight hanging on a rope using a lever balanced on a fulcrum. The rope is in tension and the fulcrum is in compression. To adjust the point of lift you could either vary the length of the rope or adjust the height of the fulcrum. The outer sleeve of your clutch cable is made out of plastic-coated steel, square-section wire and is resistant to compression forces along its length. This outer sleeve works as your fulcrum and, because it is flexible, lets you put it where it is needed - at the end of your handlebar. The cable inner is like the rope in the lever example and resists only stretching forces. It is threaded down through that snaking fulcrum back to where control movement is needed. The cable adjusters let you fine tune the length of the fulcrum, and therefore the lift range of the inner cable.,,,

I can't find a diagram. The small potentiometer on the control board likely serves as an adjustable component to fine-tune specific parameters. Here are some possibilities: Voltage Regulation: The potentiometer might control the output voltage. By adjusting it, you can set the desired charging voltage for different battery types (e.g., 6V or 12V). Current Limit Adjustment: It could be used to set the maximum charging current. Adjusting the potentiometer allows you to limit the charging current based on the battery's capacity and condition. Sensitivity or Threshold: Some potentiometers act as sensitivity controls. For example, it might adjust the threshold at which the charger switches between charging and maintenance modes. Setting the Potentiometer: Without the specific circuit diagram or detailed information about your charger, I recommend the following general steps: Observe the Potentiometer: Identify the potentiometer on the control board. Note its position and any markings (if present). Consult the User Manual: Check the user manual or operating instructions. It might provide guidance on adjusting the potentiometer. Trial and Error: If no specific instructions are available, start with the potentiometer set to its mid-position. Gradually adjust it while monitoring the charger's behavior (e.g., charging current, voltage). Observe how the charger responds to changes in the potentiometer setting. Fine-tune it based on your specific battery type and desired charging characteristics. Remember that precise adjustments depend on the charger's design and the battery you're charging.

The lift cables on a 1993 model 2693 Hilo camper are 30 feet,2 3/4 inches long and fit the standard height lift of 11 feet 8 inches high to the top of the overhead. The lift uses two cables. According to a Hi- Lo camper travel trailer forum, cable replacement is basically the same on all years and models, with the main difference being the length of the cables from model to model. You can use a cable cut chart to find what cable length you need for your camper, and you'll need to know your year, model name, and box (body) length: Lift cables typically wear out after three to five years, so it's important to replace them as needed and keep them regularly maintained.

Check fuel delivery ,or fuel filter

The bike doesn't exist as written. https://www.google.com/search?q=410JS+1000cc+santana We are better with 'year make model 1000cc'. Better to not try and do better than the bike engineers. A mechanical pump runs when the engine is turning, an electric pump will run as soon as the key is turned and create pressure all the time. It would have to be an in tank electric pump or it will burn out. Electric pumps are cooled an lubricated by the fuel passing through it. If it is a carbureted engine, you are pressurizing the carb bowl. If injected, it may already have a fuel return. Check the mechanical pump for a torn diaphragm, they are easy to change. ..