Beta Motorcycles - Page 7 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

long-armed brush is usually the best way scrub off brake dust and dirt. Apply a wheel cleaner first and let it settle before scrubbing it off. Chrome wheels will require specific cleaners so be aware of your wheel's finish before purchasing a cleaner. Don't use tire dressing products as their glossy finishes can compromise grip,,

Various wrenches. A soft brush or old toothbrush. An O-ring friendly chain cleaner (if like most chains yours is of an o-ring type.) O-ring friendly chain lubricant (again, if applicable.) A new cotter pin (when adjusting the chain tension.) Rags (for wiping grime off the chain.) A rubber mallet (optional.) A rear wheel stand (optional.) A tape measure (optional.,,,

I pull in the clutch and when I put it in first gear it either jumps forward and stalls or wants to move forward but doesn't quite stall. After the bike warms up the problem goes away. I am pretty familiar with clutches in cars and in general (I'm a mechanic) but I just want some opinions. Could it be air in the system that takes a warm up cycle to go away? Or is this a common problem with Monsters? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!The clutch slave can be difficult to bleed. It sounds like you have air in there. I'd bleed it and zip tie the lever to the grip overnight. That will allow air to return to the master. Another issue could be sticky plates in the clutch pack. Does the bike get ridden infrequently?,,,

and I'm out of ideas. I have a RR 125 Motard with about 12000 miles on the clock. It's been trouble free for the years that I've owned it. Recently I noticed a slight miss when running at part throttle. RPM doesn't matter it misses from idle to almost redline but only when the throttle is in the first 5% of it's range. I did the full routine, carb cleaning, valve adjustment (ugh...shims), air/fuel/oil filters. No change. At more than 5% throttle, there's no miss, and it pulls very strong. At full throttle, I don't have the guts to see the end of 4th gear. Tempurature doesn't make a difference, hot or cold, it runs the same, although when the choke is on (cold) there's no miss (but a high idle). Turning on the choke after it's wamed up it will bog and die (like it should). I suppose I could have missed something when cleaning the carbs, but usually, a little bit of choke will fix that. Not in this case. There's no hesitation when opening the throttle, and under high loads, any RPM, any gear, it runs fine. So, I'm at a loss. I'm open to suggestions. ,Check for vacuum leaks first - carb boots, vacuum lines, etc. Also check the CV diaphragms for cracks, splits and pinholes. Then, I think I'd re-check/clean the pilot jets. Then, if that doesn't help, I'd open the idle mixture screws a bit - maybe 1/8 to 1/4 turn to get a little richer mix.,,,

and I was having very poor high speed performance. The bike could just barely hit 70-75 but I was loosing speed going uphill (even on slight grades). I could maintain 55-60 MPH but anything above that and the bike just didn't have any power. Probably needs a fuel system cleaning, Stu. Drive-train? Not likely, based on what you said. However, if the RPMs are rising without an increase in MPH, well... that's a different story. What won't help: High octane fuel nor octane boost. Your Honda should do fine with 87, and 93 ain't gonna clean the crud out. What may help: SeaFoam (from the auto parts store) may clean things out fairly well. I've had good success with it in situations like this, but it may take several doses to see improvement. Standard dosage is one ounce per gallon of gas. New spark plugs won't hurt but you may not notice any difference. What would be better: An all-out attack on the carbs, including disassembly, soaking in carb dip, re-build kits and a good synchronization. BTW, a decent carb-sync kit can be had for around $40. I'm glad you have a manual - lots of guys try to work on their bikes without 'em. Wacko Rolling Eyes It's like bashing my head against a wall... Oh... welcome to the forum!!!,,,

Yes All motorcycle chains currently being manufactured use Buna-N (Nitrile) rubber for their o-rings and x-rings and all these manufacturers recommend kerosene as a cleaner. Here's the formulation of WD-40: 80% Stoddard Solvent (that is similar to kerosene) 20% light lubricating oil and a bit of fragrance. Here's the compatibility of Stoddard Solvent with rubbers and plastics: Good Compatibility (OK for both static and dynamic seals) Buna-N (Nitrile) Chemraz Epichlorohydrin Fluorocarbon Fluorosilicone Kalrez Nitrile, hydrogenated Polyacrylate Teflon, virgin Mixed Compatibility (OK for static seals, but not for dynamic seals) Neoprene Vamac Fair Compatibility (OK for some static seals) Polysulfide Polyurethane, millable Poor Compatibility Butyl Ethylene-Propylene Hypalon Natural rubber Silicone Styrene Butadiene Consequently, WD-40 is safe and effective as a chain cleaner and corrosion inhibitor. Link: http://www.efunda.com/designstandard...dard%20Solvent If you clean with a soft brush and WD-40, and plan to follow-up with a chain lube, you can reduce chain lube sling-off if you first remove the oil residue that WD-40 leaves. This residue seems to prevent some chain lube formulations from sticking well to the chain.,,,

tires control lights oil, chassis, stands,,,

Bowden cables like your clutch cable work on the law of the lever. Think of lifting up a heavy weight hanging on a rope using a lever balanced on a fulcrum. The rope is in tension and the fulcrum is in compression. To adjust the point of lift you could either vary the length of the rope or adjust the height of the fulcrum. The outer sleeve of your clutch cable is made out of plastic-coated steel, square-section wire and is resistant to compression forces along its length. This outer sleeve works as your fulcrum and, because it is flexible, lets you put it where it is needed - at the end of your handlebar. The cable inner is like the rope in the lever example and resists only stretching forces. It is threaded down through that snaking fulcrum back to where control movement is needed. The cable adjusters let you fine tune the length of the fulcrum, and therefore the lift range of the inner cable.,,,

then the same problem occurs again. I tried a new voltage regulator but it is still charging at 15.3 volts at an idle. If anyone has any suggestions it would be greatly appreciated!!! That sounds more like an ignition problem to me - especially if you can fire up the bike a few minutes later. I'm suspecting a heat related problem with the ignition, most likely in the coils or pickup. Not being familiar with the layout of your bike, I can't give you much more help than that.,,,

I noticed a repetetive whirring coming from somewhere near the front sprocket- Or at least I'm pretty sure that's where it's coming from. It's not quite a grinding but it sounds like some sort of contact problem. I jacked up the bike, and the rear wheel spins freely in neutral except for a small area which seems to need just a *little* more force to spin around. Not sure if it's from the rear wheel or from whatever might be wrong up towards the front. The noise has an accompanying gritty feel, which rather reminds me of a bent rotor rubbing lightly at a certain point once per cycle on the brake pad. No amount of variation of pressure or speed in braking seems to affect the problem. There's no obvious performance issues, and I only hear it when I've got the clutch pulled in (probably because it's not loud enough to hear over the exhaust, not because it isn't happening). I ran the bike downhill in neutral and it still makes this noise. I lubed and adjusted the chain a day or so ago, and the adjustment notches are at the same point on each side. I had also ridden over a set of train rails cut deeply into the road, but I doubt that had much impact on anything. Any ideas?,Sounds like your chain may not have stretched evenly. You also may have it adjusted too tightly. You should always adjust the chain so that you have the specified slack at its tightest point. Do you know how many miles/KMs are on on this chain/sprocket set?,,,

You may want to try a 'color match ' polish.Try your local Detail Shop to get the best suggestion as to what they use.

Various wrenches. A soft brush or old toothbrush. An O-ring friendly chain cleaner (if like most chains yours is of an o-ring type.) O-ring friendly chain lubricant (again, if applicable.) A new cotter pin (when adjusting the chain tension.) Rags (for wiping grime off the chain.) A rubber mallet (optional.) A rear wheel stand (optional.) A tape measure (optional.,,,

This is a massively common problem ith ducati's from all of my research without a complete rework of how the oil flows it will do that like clockwork on long wheelies heck it was on speedvision the other night a bike show had that really famous black stunt rider on a Hypermotard he warned them about the problem they asked him to do a long wheelie anyway and sure enough it dumped oil halfway through the shot, caught on camera spewin oil all over the place. From my understanding there are modifications that can be done to overcome this, I just don't know what they are,,,

u can take the current ones off by simply heating them to warm the cement then pull...if that doesnt work u could use a razor blade but bake sure that u dont cut anything. you could put the wire around the grip if u want its all up to u.

Put it up on your stand lossen the axel and remove the bolt on the bottom of the shock. Then tighten your chain and lift your swingarm up until its horizontal with the ground, then the chain should have almost no play. Not completely tight, but almost no play. Tighten the axel, and the bolt on the shock, and your set,,,

1.Get your supplies ready and expose your engine 2.Unscrew the Oil Filler Cap 3.Remove the Oil Drain Plug 4.Remove and Replace the Crush Washer 5.Clean the Oil Drain Plug 6.Remove the Oil Filter 7.Remove and Clean Plastic Mesh Filter 8.Lubricate the O-ring of the New Filter and Attach it to the Engine 9.Motorcycle Oil Change - Replace Oil Drain Plug & Plastic Mesh Filter Pour Oil 10.Check the Oil Level,,

I pull in the clutch and when I put it in first gear it either jumps forward and stalls or wants to move forward but doesn't quite stall. After the bike warms up the problem goes away. I am pretty familiar with clutches in cars and in general (I'm a mechanic) but I just want some opinions. Could it be air in the system that takes a warm up cycle to go away? Or is this a common problem with Monsters? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!The clutch slave can be difficult to bleed. It sounds like you have air in there. I'd bleed it and zip tie the lever to the grip overnight. That will allow air to return to the master. Another issue could be sticky plates in the clutch pack. Does the bike get ridden infrequently?,,,

and its the momentary opening of the points that causes the spark. Also.... my points seem fine but there is some blackening/charring on the shaft they make contact with... can I dress it with steel wool so the electrical contact is good again? It seems as though my points are opening up at the full advance mark. Also should the igntion be turned on while checking timing (not the engine running just the battery in the circuit). When I turn off the ignition and check it the continuity buzzer on my multimeter is going off all the time... it *never* shows an open contact. yet the bike runs,The easiest way to do this is to use an Analog Ohm meter. If your meter uses a tone that's fine too. When you use your ohm meter, you want the system to be discharged and isolated ... that means you want to remove the battery !!! When you check points timing statically, you are only checking for resistance. One ohmmeter lead should be connected to a good ground (on the engine preferably) and the other lead should connected to the wire leading to the coil. When you rotate the engine, (IN THE PROPER DIRECTION! Wink ) you need to pay attention to the ohmmeter. The exact instant the needle jumps to infinite resistance, that's the place your plug fires. (the exact moment the points open, in other words) This should occur on a designated place that is engraved on the points plate .. (usually maked with an F.) The other marking here usually indicate T for tdc, and usually || for full advance. Be sure that you are not timing the bike 180 degrees out. Also, be very careful while timing - USE A PROPER SIZED SCREWDRIVER! to prevent stripping a screw head (Which are a PIA to replace.) ,,,

it was given to my dad recently after sitting up for a while. The battery spins the bike over fine but shows a little weak at 12.1 volts. I have ohmed the pulse generators at the 4-pin connector under the tank. They ohm'd a little low at around 430 (I think going from memory here). I don't know if this is too much out of range for them to function properly. I know the spark units are supposedly untestable but I have popped them apart and I'm not seeing ANY DC voltage coming into either of them on ANY wire with key on, or while cranking. Shouldn't these have some sort of voltage coming to them at some time? If not, how else can they function. Also, don't have any voltage to the coils, but I assume this is because the CDI's aren't sending any. The coils ohm fine, and I have connected them to my race car and spun it over, and they are fine. They throw a nice blue flame from both terminals. Any ideas where to go from here? I thought the CDI's may be bad, but not sure at this point. They may be just not getting power for some reason. ,starter!,,,

and the headlight would burn when i got it but two days after i got it it quit burning. all other lights on it burn fine but the headlight. i bought a new bulb thinking maybe it burned out, but that didn't work either. before i bought my battery, i was jumping it off with my vehicle battery, could this have messed it up in some way, but not the other lights? i checked the fuses, and they are not blown either. anyone have any suggestions, on what i could try, please let me know.,ok, i checked the ingnition switch all was good there, well, i feel kind of stupid Laughing , it was a fuse, i checked it, but it looked perfect, like new, well i decided after tring several other things to go back to it, and change it anyway, and well it worked. but now i have another problem, any one who can help please do. it gets hot, if i keep it at one speed it is ok, but if you get into it, and work the engine a little, it gets hot, kind of like the water pump isn't working. any one have this problem before? if so let me know what fixed it, and anyone who may have any ideas of what to check, let me know. thanks to all.,,,