Beta Motorcycles - Page 6 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

(Poppy? quick350?) had mentioned LucasOil. While I remember Buzz had said something about being wary of oil additives. just thought i'd ask for some recommendations before mixing up a cocktail in my crakcase. I think what Buzz was talking about was lubrication additives (friction reducers). Something that would cause your clutch to become unusually slick. Something that's designed specifically for sealing old gaskets shouldn't pose a big problem to the shifting system... But I'm not an expert on the matter so if hopefully someone else can either back me or let me know what I'm wrong about.,,,

u can take the current ones off by simply heating them to warm the cement then pull...if that doesnt work u could use a razor blade but bake sure that u dont cut anything. you could put the wire around the grip if u want its all up to u.

Yes All motorcycle chains currently being manufactured use Buna-N (Nitrile) rubber for their o-rings and x-rings and all these manufacturers recommend kerosene as a cleaner. Here's the formulation of WD-40: 80% Stoddard Solvent (that is similar to kerosene) 20% light lubricating oil and a bit of fragrance. Here's the compatibility of Stoddard Solvent with rubbers and plastics: Good Compatibility (OK for both static and dynamic seals) Buna-N (Nitrile) Chemraz Epichlorohydrin Fluorocarbon Fluorosilicone Kalrez Nitrile, hydrogenated Polyacrylate Teflon, virgin Mixed Compatibility (OK for static seals, but not for dynamic seals) Neoprene Vamac Fair Compatibility (OK for some static seals) Polysulfide Polyurethane, millable Poor Compatibility Butyl Ethylene-Propylene Hypalon Natural rubber Silicone Styrene Butadiene Consequently, WD-40 is safe and effective as a chain cleaner and corrosion inhibitor. Link: http://www.efunda.com/designstandard...dard%20Solvent If you clean with a soft brush and WD-40, and plan to follow-up with a chain lube, you can reduce chain lube sling-off if you first remove the oil residue that WD-40 leaves. This residue seems to prevent some chain lube formulations from sticking well to the chain.,,,

Various wrenches. A soft brush or old toothbrush. An O-ring friendly chain cleaner (if like most chains yours is of an o-ring type.) O-ring friendly chain lubricant (again, if applicable.) A new cotter pin (when adjusting the chain tension.) Rags (for wiping grime off the chain.) A rubber mallet (optional.) A rear wheel stand (optional.) A tape measure (optional.,,,

1.Get your supplies ready and expose your engine 2.Unscrew the Oil Filler Cap 3.Remove the Oil Drain Plug 4.Remove and Replace the Crush Washer 5.Clean the Oil Drain Plug 6.Remove the Oil Filter 7.Remove and Clean Plastic Mesh Filter 8.Lubricate the O-ring of the New Filter and Attach it to the Engine 9.Motorcycle Oil Change - Replace Oil Drain Plug & Plastic Mesh Filter Pour Oil 10.Check the Oil Level,,

need to get the carbs synchronized Tom. sounds like you are still getting a rich condition in either/both one and two cylinders resulting in uneven combustion pressures. Getting your carbs sync'd should fix the vibration and the overly rich cylinders ,

I'm gonna go with theory #2 sort of. My guess is that one or more of the float valves is leaking causing the gas to overflow into the crankcase. This happens often with bikes that are allowed to sit for long periods with gas in the carbs and tank. A thorough fuel system cleaning is what it needs. I'd say go ahead and buy four carb rebuild kits for it - may as well since you'll have to disassemble the carbs to clean the gum and varnish out, which is really the best thing for it at this point. I wouldn't try to run it again 'til you get the carbs to quit leaking, the fuel drained out of the crankcase and put fresh oil in. ,,,

I have noticed that it smells of gas when it is running. Not really raw gas but kinda of exhausty gas it still as a bit a raw gas smell but it has an exhaust smell too. Also there is some slight smoking coming out of the exhaust pipes. Not too bad but if you look you can notice it. If I goose the throttle up it comes out more and the goes back to being light. Are these two problems related and what could be the cause? ounds like your bike is running rich. Probably wouldn't hurt to have your carburetors adjusted and synchronized.,,

tires control lights oil, chassis, stands,,,

Bowden cables like your clutch cable work on the law of the lever. Think of lifting up a heavy weight hanging on a rope using a lever balanced on a fulcrum. The rope is in tension and the fulcrum is in compression. To adjust the point of lift you could either vary the length of the rope or adjust the height of the fulcrum. The outer sleeve of your clutch cable is made out of plastic-coated steel, square-section wire and is resistant to compression forces along its length. This outer sleeve works as your fulcrum and, because it is flexible, lets you put it where it is needed - at the end of your handlebar. The cable inner is like the rope in the lever example and resists only stretching forces. It is threaded down through that snaking fulcrum back to where control movement is needed. The cable adjusters let you fine tune the length of the fulcrum, and therefore the lift range of the inner cable.,,,

and what wouldn't work if one or the other went bad? Right now when I turn the key from OFF to ACCESSORIES the headlight will come on and the starter will run when pressed (the bike won't start though) but when I switch the key to IGNITION everything goes dead. The switch is new so it's probably not that. I'm not an electrical system expert but this guy's page has helped me many times. He discusses rectifiers about a third of the way down... but you'll probably learn a lot by reading the whole page and eventually the whole site. He has really good info about most aspects of MC repair. http://www.dansmc.com/electricaltesting.htm,,

but I feel there has to be a better reason. Has anyone had this problem? Any suggestions?Your dealer's explanation sounds fishy to me. I don't know much about your bike but these guys can probably help you: Turbo Motorcycle Owners,,

You may want to try a 'color match ' polish.Try your local Detail Shop to get the best suggestion as to what they use.

This is a massively common problem ith ducati's from all of my research without a complete rework of how the oil flows it will do that like clockwork on long wheelies heck it was on speedvision the other night a bike show had that really famous black stunt rider on a Hypermotard he warned them about the problem they asked him to do a long wheelie anyway and sure enough it dumped oil halfway through the shot, caught on camera spewin oil all over the place. From my understanding there are modifications that can be done to overcome this, I just don't know what they are,,,

1.Get your supplies ready and expose your engine 2.Unscrew the Oil Filler Cap 3.Remove the Oil Drain Plug 4.Remove and Replace the Crush Washer 5.Clean the Oil Drain Plug 6.Remove the Oil Filter 7.Remove and Clean Plastic Mesh Filter 8.Lubricate the O-ring of the New Filter and Attach it to the Engine 9.Motorcycle Oil Change - Replace Oil Drain Plug & Plastic Mesh Filter Pour Oil 10.Check the Oil Level,,

way outside the recomended slack (which is 20-30mm). Any suggestions as to what could be causing this? I am thinking there are two options: 1) the chain and sprockets are shot and need urgent replacement. 2) the rear axle bolt is shot and despite being tightened to the correct torque it is loosening as I ride. Has anybody got any advice on this? Any feedback is welcome. Adjust the chain to spec then mark the adjustment slider and the swingarm at a common piont on both sides of the wheel. Use a paintpen or steal some nail polish for this. Then see if the wheel moves as the chain slackens off when you ride. It sounds like your chain and sprockets are toast though.......,,

replacing o-rings order of reassembly things to look for compression test, etc.,I'm hoping you have a proper repair manual for the bike - 'cause that's a hefty undertaking you're into. Other than that, I can't help you as I have no experience with these bikes.,,,

A good patch job (removing the tire and repairing with a patch on the inside of it) I feel is much better than a plug IMHO I used to do allot of automotive tire repairs with patches and can't remember if any actually came apart or became defective. The plug may have a tendency to loosen and leak. On the other hand allot of people would replace the tire just to have peace of mind with regards to motorcycle tires. 1500 miles is close enough to justify replacement. ,,

A bucket for soapy water Soap or liquid detergent; automotive cleaners will work Gloves (to keep your hands clean) Bug and tar remover Degreaser and/or engine cleaner A toothbrush WD40 A brush for wheel cleaning Wheel cleaner At least two microfiber or 100% cotton sponges A variety of soft cotton towels and more abrasive rags A chamois cloth for drying

what to do with fluids?If your brake fluid is in need of changing do so before long-term storage. Similarly hydraulic clutch fluid should be changed before you store your bike; both systems may suffer failure if moisture gets in. Also make sure your coolant is fresh, as deposits can form from old fluid. For service intervals, consult your owner's manual.,,,