My 2006 SXV had the same problem I think. I would turn over & over but no firing ?
Don't give up - just get it to the Rocket Centre @ Blackburn. They fixed mine desp[ite my local dealer saying it was a new engine job. Very few dealers (in the North at least) have any idea how to fix an SXV
There is a new set of starting gears available FOC from prillia which will probably fix the problem straight away. Mine needed a new stator too and valve buckets which were compounding the problem but the whole thing cost me less than £100 thanks to the free upgrade from prillia.
give it a try - you won't be disappointed if you can get it going again
Hi, Alex if your bike has been sitting idle for months or years and you did not do any pre-storage maintenance I feel your pain it will probably have a dead battery and not want to start or if it starts it will not idle unless the choke is full on and run poorly then stall, here are the following steps necessary to complete in order to get your bike back to an acceptable running condition and in the future pour in a bottle of fuel stabilizer and injector cleaner for you FI folks at least 2 times a year and before storage.
1. If your battery was 2-3 years old when you last had the bike running you should replace it.
2. If you believe your battery might still be serviceable remove it from the bike and put it on a 1 or 2 amp trickle charger for 24 hours. If it is the old lead acid type with visible cells and acid levels fill each cell to the top line with distilled water and replace the caps, run the vent tube into a plastic or styrofoam cup, any cells that are cloudy/milky replace the battery.
3. After charging the battery remove the leads and let it sit for a couple of hours then check the battery voltage with a voltmeter, you should have 12.5 volts or more, any readings in the 11 volt range you need to do a proper "LOAD" test on the battery and replace as necessary, you may have 12.5 volts or better but little or zero amps, any readings in the 10 volt range you have a dead cell and the battery needs to be replaced.
4. Drain and flush fuel tank if it rusty there is a cheap and easy fix. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fUYr_7SwGms
5. Remove and inspect your air cleaner paper elements that are not oil soaked can be cleaned with a soft brush and low pressure compressed air, oil-soaked elements must be replaced. Gause mesh and foam elements can be cleaned by soaking them in a container big enough to completely cover them with a solution of 1 gallon of water and 1 oz. of Dawn dishwashing liquid for small and medium size elements, for monster size double the formula and let soak for at least one hour then rinse with warm water shake off excess and let air dry, "WARNING" do not use compressed air as this will embed micro-sized dirt and road grime and destroy the mesh pattern and stretch foam elements out of shape just squeeze it like a sponge and let air dry, use a fan if you're in a hurry. When completely dry spray a very fine mist of air filter oil evenly around the whole element.
6. Remove the carburetors, disassemble and decontaminate with a "CARB DIP" or if you have EFI remove injectors and clean with carb spray and compressed air
7. Check intake manifold and seals for leaks and craks.
8. Remove fuel valve and filter disassemble and clean as necessary, remove, clean, and inspect fuel and vacuum lines and replace as necessary.
9. Replace spark plugs with new ones and check for spark.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?322647-04-Aprilia-Mojito-50-wont-start How to start your scooter after weeks of sitting https://www.manualslib.com/manual/867276/Aprilia-Mojito-50.html https://www.manualslib.com/manual/363539/Aprilia-Mojito-125-2004.html#product-MOJITO%2050 https://www.oemmotorparts.com/oem4.asp?M=Aprilia&T=Mojito%20%20125-150&Y=2004&L=AP_MOJ2 https://www.manualslib.com/manual/882299/Aprilia-Mojito-50.html
Hi, Anonymous it should be noted that the reasons your FI light stays on constantly or flashes and your bike will or will not start and may turn over or may not and run great or sputter, these conditions will vary from bike to bike depending on the year, make, and model and you should always refer to your owners/service manual for proper diagnostic procedures. It should also be noted that any type of prior work done to the bike or an abnormal event occurrence IE: adding accessories, electrical curiosity/adventures, laying the bike down/crashes, rain storms/bike washings just before FI light issues started can be significant hints/aids into tracking down the gremlin, also carry the appropriate jumper wire to access fault codes to reduce the risk of being stranded or towed. The newer the bike the more sensitive the ECM becomes and will not let the bike start when aftermarket accessories have been installed without being reprogrammed. That being said the usual suspects are:
1. Faulty Fuel Pump, fuse or system relay switch.
2. Battery starting to fail due to old age/damage, perform a load test.
3. A discharged battery, check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Faulty safety switches/sensors: run/off, ignition, clutch lever, neutral, side stand, tip over, fuel, and or their connections.
5. Broken wire or worn insulation exposing wire to a ground situation especially inside wire harness at tight bends around fairing brackets, under dash panels, under fuel tanks over cylinder heads, etc. Many harnesses are open on the ends that will allow water to enter and accumulate at v-bends.
Dielectric grease and contact cleaner are your best friends for wire/cable/harness connectors, look for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets.
6. Installation of aftermarket accessories ie. exhaust systems, mufflers, air cleaners, fuel tuners, electrical component, etc.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?244347-quot-Service-quot-light-reset https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9PqFHiWzA0Q https://www.manualslib.com/manual/895111/Aprilia-Tuono-1000.html#product-TUONO%201000%20R https://www.oemmotorparts.com/oem4.asp?M=aprilia&T=tuono%20%201000&Y=2006&L=AP_TU1 https://www.manualslib.com/manual/363735/Aprilia-Tuono-1000-R-Factory.html
Hi, Frankaelvoet and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery must have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Faulty alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. A faulty main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Faulty system relay or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Faulty ignition coil, ignition/electronic module.
7. Faulty CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Faulty neutral, side stand or clutch lever safety switch.
10. Fuel tank empty
11. Fuel tank contaminated with ethanol sludge.
12. Water or dirt in the fuel system, or clogged filter.
13. Quick disconnect check ball stuck.
14. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
15. Faulty fuel pump.
16. Faulty pressure regulator.
17. Faulty or clogged fuel injectors.
18. Lean angle switch is faulty or needs adjustment.
19. Catastrophic engine failure, perform a compression test.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?123204-EFI-light http://apriliarsv.com/aprilia-rsv-mille/3300-2000-rsvr-efi-light.html https://www.manualslib.com/manual/363479/Aprilia-1115-2.html#product-RSV%20MILLE%20-%20WORKSHOP%20MANUAL%202002 https://www.bike-parts-aprilia.com/ https://www.onlymanuals.com/manuals/cars/other_manufacturer/other_model/aprilia_motorcycle_aprilia_rsv_mille_technical_training_course
Hi, Plunk2uk before you start it in the morning, pull the spark plugs and sniff them. Do they smell like gasoline? Are they wet? If so, you may have fuel leaking past the needle and seat in the carburetor and flooding the cylinders.
Use a voltmeter on the battery an hour after you shut the bike off. It should be at least 12.6 volts. Check it again in the morning. It should still be 12.6 volts or more. If not, something could be drawing current when the key is off.
If it's a carbureted bike and the ambient temperature is warm, you may be over-using your choke/enrichner. Try cranking it with the choke turned off first and then try half-choke, and then full choke. If you start with too much choke it will flood. After it starts, shut the choke off after 15 - 30 seconds and then use the throttle to keep the bike running until it warms up. Over-using the choke will soot up your spark plugs.
A fresh set of properly gapped spark plugs can make a lot of difference in how easily a bike starts.
Engines need a richer fuel mixture when they're cold. An intake leak can also cause hard starting because it leans out the air/fuel mixture.
After you get the bike started, spray some WD-40 or carb cleaner around the carburetor intake manifold seals. If the RPMs change, you have an intake leak.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?177009-Pegaso-cold-starting-problem KLR 650 Hard Start When Cold http://bookshelfs.gdn/en/aprilia_pegaso_650_1999_factory_service_repair_manual_ebooks_2019.pdf?data=good https://www.bike-parts-aprilia.com/ https://www.manualslib.com/manual/363547/Aprilia-Pegaso-650-1996.html
Hi, Sidir90 before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for a 32 amp system.
4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).
5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.
6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if passed step 2)
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?204699-Overcharging-now-undercharging How to Fully Troubleshoot Your Motorcycles Charging System MotorcycleMD Aprilia SportCity 250 ie Service Manual https://www.bike-parts-aprilia.com/ http://mybikemanuals.com/Aprilla