Volvo S40 - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues - Page 3

Blue smoke is often the result of bad rings on the pistons. Engine rebuild time. It is possible that the turbo is leaking oil into your engine.

take it to a power steering specialist shop and have them check the drive belt first and the the power steering for failure

Motor mounts

Inside the key fob are contacts that get dirty, both the electric side and the push button side, carefully clean them both.

It looks like you've got a poor gasoline into it. Try to drive on high-octane for a while.

A problem I had with my 2003 BMW was that the wiring near the trunk hinge that feeds the lock mechanism had been bent back and forth enough times (I open my trunk several times a day) that some of the wires broke. The only way I could get in the trunk was by the mechanical key. The fob and the button release in the cabin did not work. I was able to access enough wiring before and after the hinge area to do a continuity check on the wires and at least a quarter of them had broken. Later I realized that the third center brake light (which is on the trunk lid) was out too. After some patience of unraveling all the wiring I was able to reconnect everything ... but it took several hours.... In your case I do not understand that your latch will not open. Usually if it is set in the lock position when open ... you can stick a screw driver in the mechanism and rotate back the engaging hook which then stays in the open position until you close the trunk again. If that is not the case with yours, then the mechanism may indeed be toast. Helpful?

google this there are some answers on line which may help you and some videos .

You most likely had air trapped in the cooling system after the heater core replacement .Its CRITICAL all air is bled out of the cooling system ,and when servicing the cooling system not only is it important to bleed out any and all air .You also need to make sure the cooling system is topped off correctly .Since i don't know the year ,and model Its hard to say why it wont start .Unfortunately when you over heat a car to the point it dies .Then i would be more worried about cracked and or blown head gaskets .All it takes is one time on many cars To overheat it to a point of stalling many times head gaskets crack ,even cylinder heads around the valves can crack .You would be very lucky if no damage resulted from overheating ,which in this case the worst thing to happen or do is keep driving it ESPECIALLY until it stalls You should have pulled over the second you knew it was getting hot and let it cool You may have caused more damage than you realize Like i said if nothing happened from overheating the car then your extremely lucky

When was the last time you changed fluids in your transmission, if never it could be that!? Good Luck Steve

Here is what one other owner had to do at a dealer, read through it and take it from there, and yes the pressure switch will cause this problem. I have received the same error codes as all of you, t P0090 (Fuel Pressure Regulator 1 Control Circuit) and P0190 (Fuel Rail pressure sensor circuit malfunction). Same symptoms. I've had the fuel pressure checked, valves, changed the spark plugs (by the dealership), software upgrade, cleaned the battery terminals, ran heet through the engine about twice, and .... nothing. The dealership couldn't figure it out either. Eventually they came to the conclusion that it was a corroded battery cable, that they would graciously change for $800. ... so, I didn't do it, because I seriously doubt its the battery cables. In the winter it had trouble starting as well, and would flood, I had to unplug the injectors sometimes to get it started. I really can't think of anything else, i'll clean the throttle body this weekend, and start running on premium to see if it makes a difference. If the dealership can't figure it out, you know its a mystery. I'm starting to wonder if its a computer problem.

Hi your air injector pump is noisy as they get old they make more sound .if functions are not correct you will have throttle issues if your vehicle runs good I would put up with sound issue could last long making noise .expensive part to replace

Still sounds like the turbo. Unless you got it from a reputable place I would go back and get another.

CHECK YOUR RESERVOIRS THE FLUID HAS TO BE LOWERING THE LEVEL AT THE SOURCE RESERVOIR

Did you test all the parts befor fitting ? Faulty parts would need to be replaced , have you wired the lights independently ? If so it shouldn't affect the CCM.

faulty light switch or light control module

sounds like the doors that open and close that direct the air are jammed, or are not receiving a signal. Have someone run a code check which should tell you. May just need to have a faulty code erased or...$$$ repair by Volvo.

I suggest you take it apart and wrap a layer of electrical duct tape to make the ball joint a bit tighter fit.

Here's the link and I'm sure you will get the solution of your problem 2006 VOLVO S40 WORKSHOP MANUAL

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Try locking and opening the doors it should reset this way. If not look at the fuzes under the glove box. If this all fails get it diagnosed at a Garrage.