Volvo 850 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support - Page 2

If you don't believe the shop take it to another one. If they tell you the same thing then you have your answer. The cable could just need sprayed with some silicone or has worn thrue its jacket.

Blown head gasket, cracked block. check for milky color of oil.

Having a failure while driving past the same spot leads me to believe your experiencing electromagnetic interference (EMI) also called radio-frequency interference (RFI) when in the radio frequency spectrum. Find more info here: Electromagnetic interference EMI or RFI interference typically emanates from intended transmissions, such as radio and TV stations or mobile phones. Automobile ignition systems also generate changing electrical currents and voltages that can cause EMI.. Broadband EMI or RFI interference is unintentional radiation from sources such as electrical power transmission lines. With that said, your ignition module may be adversely affected by an outside source. Ask you mechanic if he can shield your module to see if that solves your problem. The ignition module is located in the front seating area, passenger side, under dash, mounted above kick panel.PS: What happens if you drive in a different direction for 10 minutes...does the failure still happen?

Hi, chk ur rear transmission mount.

Could be rear brake locking up,cars arent used to going backwards or hand brake sticking on . Would look there first.

Yes, if the pcv valve is clogged or not properly connected to the air inlet, it can allow more blowby. However, if there a lot of miles on the engine, it might be time for new piston rings. Run a compression test on all cylinders.

not something you should try on your own. Needs to be done by a place that knows what they doing and guarentees their work

check the battery voltage with a digital meter, clean the cables and terminals replace any loose ones. check grounds car off should be minimum or 12.5 anything less its probably a bad or low charged battery, with the car running with ac on and lights on high beams should be 13.5-15v anything less the alternator should be checked and or replaced. 13.5 is on the low side of the scale keep that in mind. as far as the accessories acting up, a low battery or bad alternator will cause all sorts of things to flicker and act up so start with the above first and good luck if after all thats completed and your still over time having a dead battery you have a parasitic drain, every car has a small one normally but a big one can be big trouble, disconnect the battery get yourself a test light. clamp one end of the test light to the positve cable (unhooked from battery) and touch the end of the test light to the + on the battery. if it lights up bright you have a parasitic drain. (something staying on,) unplug fueses until the light turns off and that fuse that was pulled right before the light went off is the circuit that's bad and needs to be checked. could be as simple as a light staying on or a aftermarket radio, but it can get as indepth as full electrical diagnostics

any check engine lights/codes?, maybe that oil sprayed onto a connector somewhere and caused an issue, most the time the connectors are sealed but if one was broken or old and cracked it could let oil in between the contacts and cause an issue. im not going to tell you its a cam or crank sensor with knowing for sure you are the one that needs to do that diagnostic, sorry.. anyways that's an intricate problem for sure and many things need to be checked before condemning one part or another. i have seen coils fried from excessive cranking under no start conditions, they can be ohmed out to see if they are bad, disconnect them and remove them from the car and ohm them out with a digital meter and compare it to spec, ohm out the primary and secondary windings . the crank sensor most likely gets a signal from a reluctor wheel which is a piece of metal behind the crank with pieces cut out of it, clean it off and make sure the crank sensor face is clean too. i would go in that order, dont condemn a part just because you think its bad. next with the main relay it can be checked or "jumped" but i dont want to suggest how because it could fry something electrical if done improperly, about the best advice i could give with the main relay is try to get it out smell it to see if you smell any burnt smells, and last open it up and check solder joints for cracks with a magnifying glass. if you see any cracks have someone thats good with a soldering iron fill the cracks and go from there. good luck and any feedback will help in your journey to fix this thing. dont get discouraged and once again if it has a code start there, even if its a history code or pending

These have a PCV oil trap, not a valve. It is located under the intake manifold. The hoses run from under the spark plug wire cover all the way down to the oil trap and over to the throttle body. Over time the PCV oil trap becomes brittle and clogged. You will need to buy a new PCV kit for around $150 and replace it. Before you do, you must clean out the engine block where it attaches at its lowest point on the engine. I used sea foam, compressed air, and a coat hanger. I did an oil change at the same time so I could drain the sea foam out of the oil pan. Make sure you clean it out good because it will spray oil out of the dipstick and oil filler cap even after replacing the PCV components.

You will need a torx bit set, I am not sure of the size, but all the torx screws in the removal should be the same size. First, removed the panel under the glove box, then remove the glove box itself. The you will see the SRS passenger air bag plate, which is held on by 3 nuts, 13mm if I remember right. Then take that out. Now you will see the blower to the right when looking through the opening in the glove box. To the left you will a black flat plug which is plugged into the back of the rectangular shaped Resistor; it has an ear on it where there is a screw attaching the resistor to the ventilation duct. Simply unplug the resistor and remove screw. Installation is reverse of removal.

Your wiper arm is worn out. You need to buy a new one. Make sure you get a Volvo OEM replacement as the after market ones are junk. The springs wear out after a while resulting in loss of contact with the windshield.

Clogged oil trap (PCV system, positive crank case ventilation). The hoses and oil trap need to be replaced (due to become brittle, dry rotted, and clogged) as well as cleaning out the sludge in the bottom of the engine block. The parts cost about $150 last I checked, and you will need to remove the intake manifold and spark plug wire cover to access the hoses and oil trap. On the bottom of the trap it connects to the engine block where you have to clean out the oil sludge. If you do not clean out the oil sludge it will still create back pressure through the oil cap and dip stick. I actually did an oil change at the same time, and drained the oil first and left the drain plug out while. I sprayed Sea Foam and compressed air down there to get the sludge out. I also used a coat hanger and brush to scrape/scrub it out. Worked good.