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Posted on Aug 03, 2011
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I meant to say valve cylinder is what they are saying caused my engine light to come on. Do you think it would be better to rebuild my engine or let them fix the exisisting problem if its going to run bout 5000

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A Miller

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  • BMW Master 8,404 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 03, 2011
A Miller
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Is this the question saying the dealer wants $7,000.00 to fix?

You still have not said a word about your vehicle make, model or year. $5,000.00 is still a lot of money in my country, particularly to put in a older car.

Rebuilding the engine is probably not necessary though I am not familiar with the term "Valve Cylinder". If this is a Cylinder Valve issue (the valves that allow entry of fuel and the exit of spent fuel), this job requires the removal of all the 'stuff' on the top of the engine to get to the head(s), removal of the head(s), and remanufacture of the head(s). And of course, the process would have to be reversed.

This is a big job and there are PLENTY of chances for stuff to go wrong. This is not a job for a unskilled person. It is time consuming (probably take a minimum of a week or more) with plenty of opportunity for errors during disassenbly and reassembly. Special tools are required as well as access to a machine shop. And, there could be other issues. If there were nothing wrong with this car, would it be worth $20,000.00 or more? If not, it is probably not economical to repair this. Your money would be better spent on a different vehicle. Sell this one or trade it on another. That is my free advice.

Chris Hall

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  • Master 842 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 03, 2011
Chris Hall
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You just logged this as a separate question. Please use comments when replying so we can keep everything in one place :-)

I really cant advise at this stage, mainly because I don't know the age of your car, it's value or the value of a replacement engine (I'm in the UK, HUGE price differences on these things).

If it IS a case of exhaust valve cleaning, I can't believe it would cost that much (Though, I'm not familiar with BMW Wankel engines, I have to admit).

I still think that you need to get a second opinion from an independant garage. Don't worry about how enbarrassing this is, it's a business and they will just have to tollerate it. Go in to the dealership. Ask "what the ECU falt codes show" and make a note of the error codes (The dealer will understand this and should give you some error codes). Then find an independant, tell them what has happened and what the dealer has said and if they think there is a more cost effective option.

If there is, then get your vehicle out of the dealer and get the independant to do it.

You are saying "rebuild the engine" as an alternative to what the dealer is suggesting, but the dealer is in fact suggesting a partial rebuild here, so what you are saying doesn't make a lot of sense I'm afraid.

What you need is someone to understand the fault. Explain it to you in layments terms and tell you what needs to be done. They also need to tell you if there are alternatives (For instance, an independant may be able to find an identical used engine from an accident damaged car and fit it for less than the repair.

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Smoke tailpipe /blue/white

Blue smoke is the result of burning engine oil, plain and simple. A high mileage engine will have worn cylinders and piston rings that allow for increased "blowby" with every cylinder firing. Exhaust gasses will sneak past the piston rings and momentarily pressurize the crankcase with each cylinder firing. The puff of gasses in the crankcase blows some oil returning from the valve train back into the valve train area in mist form where it is sucked up by the PCV and introduced to the intake manifold where it is mixed with incoming air to be burned in the cylinders along with some fuel. And that is how blue smoke happens...

The solution is an engine rebuild or a different engine in better shape. The latter is the least-cost solution.

A defective PCV *could* result in more oil burning, but I think not as much as in your case. The keyword is "'99 Plymouth Breeze."
Age is not a friend to the Plymouth Breeze.

Hope this helps you choose what to do next!
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Installed new piston rings and gas is getting inside oil

valve not closing is from a bent valve. Black soot is from over fuelling and incomplete combustion. Oily chamber is oil from the rings. It si possible that more than one valve is bent as it occurs from turning the engine over without letting of the rockers when adjusting the valve timing.
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I HAVE A 2003 MAZDA PROREGE ...I PURCHASED IN NEW...I,VE TAKEN GOOD CARE OF IT THRU THE YEARS...IT,S STARTING TO SMOKE WHEN I START IT UP IN THE MORNINGS FOR ABOUT A MINUTE THEN THE SMOKING STOPS...DOES'NT...

There is always a better alternative than the dealership as far as costs. They want to put a new motor in a 2003 model? That is ridiculous to me- cost-prohibitive. Find a reputable independent shop. Look for references and customer satisfaction. A used, low mileage replacement engine is a better alternative, probably less than half the cost of a new engine.
There may be an even better alternative, where you refurbish the top end of the engine-the cylinder head and valve train. This is dependent on that a wet-dry compression test supports rebuilding the top end. What I mean by this is a compression test of the cylinders reveals low compression in one or more cylinders, okay. Next, they would squirt some oil (about a tablespoon) in the low cylinders and check compression again. If compression doesn't change, it points to the valves and valve train (the valve guides which wear and could let oil into the cylinder). But if compression is higher in the wet test, then the piston rings are worn and losing compression, and oil gets past them-this would indicate the engine needs a complete rebuild or a replacement is called for. The reason for the wet test is that the oil will temporarily seal around the piston rings and improve compression if the rings are the problem.
If the test shows the valves are the problem (and it is very possible on an engine with only 120K-your bottom end could be fine), then a top end rebuild of the engine is a much cheaper route than any other choices. You may not know this, but often a little oil burning in the cylinders at start-up is nothing more than the valve stem rubber seals are deteriorated-a real cheap fix. The dealership probably won't tell you this. However, with the loss of power, well, that points to something more severe than valve stem seals. So I would recommend the wet compression test, just to check if it is the top end or the bottom end. If it's the top end, you could have the cylinder head reconditioned and motor along for a few more years, trouble free.
Similar to a compression test, a "leak down" test of the cylinders is actually a more accurate method of finding where compression is lost, and it's only a one step test. They hold compressed air in the cylinder and analyze where it escapes to pinpoint compression loss. Loss of compression translates into loss of power. Have either test done before you decide. Find a good mechanic and trust his advice. (Stay far away from dealers. Greed is their motivating factor.)
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I drove my van and got stuck in the snow so i rocked it back and forth and now it sounds like a ticking like it doesn't have oil but it does i have replaced the plugs plug wires and the coil going to...

I think you're right friend, but do a compression check first. It may only be a valve, but still means a tare down. I gotta do the same thing on my Ranger 3.0l. It all points to a bad valve after I've replaced everything else it could be in hopes of no tare down. Oh well, the weather is finally getting better for it anyway.
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Engine light came on when my car cut off. Dealer says my exhaust cylinder is clogged with carbon build up. They are charging me 7000 dollars to fix. Is it cheaper to just go ahead and rebuild my engine and...

This sounds like complete bullSh1t to me!

$7,000 !!!!!!!

The description of "an exhaust cylinder" is crazy, there is no such thing. You have exhaust valves and exhaust manifold and exhaust pipes. What on earth is an exhaust cylinder??

At the very least you owe it to yourself to get a second opinion, Has anyone read the ECU on the vehicle and told you what the fault codes were and what they meant?

How old is the car? If it's still under warranty then the work should be done under warranty. If it's not, then you would do well to go to a reputable private garage, not the dealer. They will probably be cheaper on labour, potentially be able to get parts at a cheaper rate and they will be looking to save you cash, not just quote a price from a book (Though I have to say, it sounds like the dealer is picking a number out of the air here!)
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V.w.jetta gas eng. timing belt broke ? .shut engine off then wood not start . dealer says needs head work ? bent valves? without disasembling is it possible valves never came into contact with pistons ?

Hi, im afraid i can only give you bad news im afraid, if the engine was running even on tick over when the belt snapped then this would have caused the valves to smash into the pistons as the top half of engine would have stopped spinning leaving at least 2 valves in the out position but what causes the damage is the bottom half of the engine, as their is no weight on the cams to keep them turning they stop at once but the bottom half the crank has a big weight called the fly wheel now when the belt snapped the cams would have stopped dead but the crank would have carried on turning under its own weight and this is what causes the piston or pistons to hit the valves this then causes the valves to bend and all the valves will need replacing and the whole top end rebuilding with new seals and the new valves and valve seats will need grinding in.

how ever as its only usually the top half that gets damaged you could save yourself some time and money by calling a local breakers yard and see if they have a cylinder head lying around or even a whole engine as the cost of rebuilding you head and engine would cost more than it would to get a second hand cylinder head or if you didnt want to take any chances look into getting a whole engine.

look at the costs involved get a quote off you garage for the head rebuilt and new valves, tell them worse case if it needed complete head rebuild with all new valves and valve seats and all the seals get a price on the whole job then ask them how much it would cost if you supplied a working cylinder head or even whole engine then compare the prices and check with some breakers for cylinder head prices or engine and you should find that a second hand head will work out cheaper than having yours stripped and rebuilt with new parts.

let me know how you get on or if you need further assistance ok

please rate this solution as i have a whole page of unrated posts, thanks
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