Ford Tempo 1994 4S, 50K miles. Didn't drive for 5 days. Today, after a few minutes, sped up to make green light. Loss of power - thought it would stall, but didn't. Power steering stopped and a/c went from cold to lukewarm. A little later, Service Engine and Amp light went on. Temp Gauge went past H, but no steam or smoke. Antifreeze container was full; it was at correct level before I had started car. Besides all of this, car drove okay, and started up alright several times. Weak battery or something else? (Hadn't left a light on during the 5 days.) Thanks.

Driving around for a couple days- is one thing

Not caring at all & driving for weeks with a check light
on,hope for the best & no damage or at least something
you can afford

Low oil level by a few quarts,really,how's that possible?

Well...my ball park guess on this is just a tune up. The engine light is usually showing a misfire. If the plugs are bad then the cylinder is not igniting the fuel and it is flooding out. With what is here this makes sense to me. Let me know what it does turn out to be.

You didn't put a problem in there,
you never got the bad coil or coils out.

If you went by some coil codes, that's why

You may have to walk a new coil, replacing the
old one & test drive 20 miles & spend a few days
doing so.

The Spark Plugs can't be over 3 years old or
50,000 miles & front O2 Sensors over 100,000 miles

I would not drive at all, if I thought any possible transmission
issue existed

Any other problem with a check light, you could go 5 miles to work,
for a few days, until they take your car in.

I have a 2.4 diesel 375 nm model and i have been told that the problem is solved by installing the correct fuel filter. Mine loses all power and stops, and the curly light comes on, and I switch it off and start it again. It works every time but is bloody dangerous on a hill when passing someone and towing a trailer.

check your battery. i had the same problem two months ago. i thought it was the alternator or starter , but the shop said i my battery wouldn't keep a charge.

Check for a vacuum leak, at the intake manifold, and at the throttle body. How old are the plugs and wires? Its the age not the miles. Has the fuel filter been changed?

P1000 is not really a fault code, if there are no there are no other codes stored then perform the following:

Disconnect the positive terminal on the battery, hold the terminal to the chassis for 2 - 3 seconds, this defuses the ecu and drains stored data thus clearing P1000.

Now wait 10 minutes.

Then reconnect battery.

Start car *without touching gas pedal*

Leave car idling for a good 5 - 10 minutes then jump in and go on a minimum 12 mile drive, you will need to perform a few normal driving conditions, fast, slow, stop, pull away etc so just a normal day to day trip to the town would suffice.

Hopefully this will sort it, if not report back

Regards

Lloyd

Sounds like an electrical issue maybe the plug from firewall to cab is loose or on computer is loose, sometimes those coonections or pins get loose,i had a new car with 200 miles on it and it went dead in heavy traffic,had to get towed to dealer they found loose connection!!!!With audible noise when happens tells me its wiring,check all connections and wires to connections make sure there not loose!!!Best of Luck to you!!!!!

I'm having same problem on my 2000 model rodeo 4wd 3.2L V6. Other day check engine light came on. I checked engine bay nothing abnormal, or power loss. Next day light was gone. 2 days later driving, a sudden loss of power and light came up. After idling for a couple of minutes, drove off with light still on but all power back. 1 hour later of faultless driving loss of power for a minute or so. Engine temp normal. Had break for 1/2 hour and set off for last hour of journey without fault except check engine light still on. Following dayon startup light went out???
Seeking help from experts.