Hi, what you would need to do is check the ignition switch to see if it is passing power to the start wire. If it is, then the wire from the ignition switch to the park/neutral switch is bad. You can trace the wire up to the ignition switch from the park/neutral switch. It's bolted to the side of the column and is not hard to swap out. Cost is only $10.
I have already replaced the ignition switch. I do not have power gpoing to the new neutral safety switch. I do hae power coming off of the ignition switch though. I tested the neutral safety switch black connector and no power there. Any ideas. Troy
The white wire with pink stripe that goes from the ignition switch to the park/neutral switch should be hot when the key is in start. Probe the back of the wire at the ignition switch connector to see if it's hot with the key in start. If yes, replace the wire from the ignition switch to the park/neutral switch.
If the wire is not hot at the ignition switch, check the red wire with a green stripe on the ignition switch connector. This is the power supply to the ignition from the battery.
Sorry, but I do not have a full set of diagrams. I see an orange wire going to the fuel pump relay, but I don't think it runs under the seat. Clearly someone has been messing with the wiring, so you never know what you have in those cases. Is the engine light staying on?
nope, car runs fine without wire hooked up, maybe just leave it off i guess. I was just curious where it went.
funny tho, you say the pump runs when you connect it? Connect it where? Was it broken?
To the relay under seat. The orange wire was broken off from age. Fixed it and pump runs with key in ignition. Weird huh. Another question.... I was checking back brakes, emergency brakes. The axel on the passenger rear is welded to drum. Why wouldyou do that. Cannnot put check back brakes or install new emergency brakes on back passenger side. Why would they weld the axel to drum?
have never seen a reason to do that. Is it sloppy welding like someone that isn't a professional? I would just grind the weld off and take it apart.
does it serve any purpose. Looks like a clean weld, done professionally.
is it really welded to the axle or just the hub? I can easily check, but some fords welded the drum to the hub, and you had to take the axle nut off to get the drum off. Is there a dust cup over the bearing?
OK, I just checked and your drum should slip right off the axle. I don't know why anyone would have welded it.
If you want to be safe, remove the axle and drum together. There is a c-lock on the shaft inside the differential. You might have to take the pinion gear out to push the axle in far enough to access the c-lock. here is procedure:
Raise and support the vehicle safely using jackstands. Position additional jackstands under the rear frame crossmember.
Remove the cover and drain the axle lubricant.
Remove the wheel and tire assemblies.
Remove the brake drums or brake rotors.
Remove the lock bolt from the pinion shaft and remove the shaft.
If equipped, remove the anti-lock brake sensors before removing the axle shafts.
Push the axle shafts inward to remove the C-locks and remove the axle shafts.
If necessary, remove the bolt attaching the brake junction block to the rear cover.
Remove the brake lines from the clips and position it out of the way.
If equipped with drum brakes, remove the four retaining nuts from
each backing plate and wire the backing plate to the underbody.
Matchmark the driveshaft yoke and companion flange. Disconnect the
driveshaft at the companion flange and wire it to the underbody.
Support the axle housing with jackstands. Disengage the brake line from the clips that retain the line to the axle housing.
Disconnect the axle vents from the rear axle housing.
Some axle vents may be secured to the housing assembly through the
brake junction block. At assembly, a thread lock/sealer must be applied
to ensure retention.
Disconnect the lower shock absorber studs from the mounting
brackets on the axle housing. If equipped, disconnect the quad shock
from the quad shock bracket.
Disconnect the upper arms from the mountings on the axle housing ear brackets.
Lower the axle housing assembly until the coil springs are released and lift out the coil springs.
Disconnect the suspension lower arms at the axle housing.
Lower the axle housing and remove it from the vehicle.
Position the axle housing under the vehicle and raise the axle
with a hoist or jack. Connect the lower suspension arms to their
mounting brackets on the axle housing. Do not tighten the bolts and nuts
at this time.
Reposition the rear coil springs.
Raise the housing into position.
Connect the upper arms to the mounting ears on the housing.
Tighten the nuts and bolts to 70-100 ft. lbs. (95-135 Nm). Tighten the
lower arm bolts to 70-100 ft. lbs. (95-135 Nm).
Install the axle vent and the brake line to the clips that retain the line to the axle housing.
If equipped with drum brakes, install the brake backing plates on the axle housing flanges.
Connect the lower shock absorber studs to the mounting bracket on
the axle housing. If equipped, connect the quad shock to the quad shock
bracket.
Connect the driveshaft to the companion flange and tighten the bolts to 70-95 ft. lbs. (95-130 Nm).
Slide the rear axle shafts into the housing until the splines
enter the side gear. Push the axle shafts inward and install the C-lock
at the end of each shaft spline. Pull the shafts outboard until the
C-lock enters the recess in the side gears.
Install the pinion shaft and the pinion shaft lock bolt. Tighten to 15-30 ft. lbs. (20-41 Nm).
Install the anti-lock sensor, if it was removed.
Install the rear brake drums or rotors and calipers.
Install the rear carrier cover.
Install the brake junction block on the carrier cover and tighten to 10-18 ft. lbs. (14-24 Nm).
Properly refill the rear axle with lubricant. Remember that the
vehicle MUST be level to assure a proper amount of fluid is added.
Remove the jackstands and carefully lower the vehicle.
it is welded to the hub where the drum slides over.
If there is a dust cap with a nut underneath, try taking the nut off and bearing out to see if that will let the drum come off. It might be someone put a different rear end in the car. If the drum is really welded to the axle, you'll have to grind the weld out or remove the axle with the drum.
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Hey, thankyou very much. I found that for some reason the previous owner had cut the wire and ran it to a computer port. This year not even supposed to have computer port in it. I think maybe they did it for theft reasons, not sure. But is is starting off of the key now and neutral safety switch is working as well. I appreciate all your help.
Another question, The wiring underneath the drivers seat for the fuel sending relay, where does the orange wire run too. The orange wire was broke off and I fixed it and put it back on, But when i did that, ther fuel pump would not shut off. I disconected it and taped it up with electrical tape and it it fine. Just curious where the orange wire runs too. Thank you, Troy
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