1985 olds 98, when hot it is hard to get fuel press, need to go to crank pos. 3 or 4 times to build press. to start. When cold it starts every time and with fuel press it has 30 1bs. it runs perfecty

I would try a new fuel filter. Its possible that when the engine is hot, the fuel is vaporising causing the hard start?

Is the check engine light on? How long has it been since the engine was tuned up? A worn plug that is "hot soaked" can create a longer cranking time. Hot soaked means it may have some un-burned fuel in the cylinder since the first cold start. A weak or worn plug has a harder time getting this fuel burned out of the cylinder when more fuel is being added during a warm start.

Throttle plate may need cleaned and check your plugs.

As it cranks, is there white or black exhaust smoke ?? If yes, the fuel injectors have solid build up on the tips. Normally, a quart bottle of injector cleaner treats 20 gallons. Pour 5 to 7 quarts of fuel injector cleaner. With cold engine (been parked for at least an hour or overnight), while cranking engine, have 2nd person spray starting fluid into air filter. DO NOT PRESS ON GAS PEDAL !!! Let the starting fluid do its job of starting the car. Starting fluid is highly combustible, so its important you don't give any gas while its cranking and 2nd person is spraying into air filter. When engine starts, stop spraying starting fluid and give a little gas. If engine begins to die, immediately spray a little starting fluid again. When engine begins to run, let it run a few minutes to let fuel injector cleaner to do its job (loosen solid carbon build up on tips of fuel injectors).

Couldn't happen just from replacing timing cover. Now if you replace timing belt/chain then yes it would be sluggish or not run at all. Sound more like you have issue with cold start valve.
Also, the accumulator is a likely place to begin, particularly because you say that it's only the first start that has hard cranking. A properly-functioning accumulator keeps the fuel system pressurized enough to open the injectors without a lot of cranking. If pressure bleeds off due to a poor accumulator, the fuel pumps have to run a while in order to re-pressurize the system, hence, long cranking times. The quick test is to cycle the ignition key 3-4 times before you attempt to start the cold motor so that the pump runs each of those times and is allowed to build up some fuel pressure before the engine is started. If that test helps, you've identified a fuel pressure problem, almost certainly the accumulator.

install pressure gauge and watch when key is turned off to see if pressure drops to zero if so bad drain back valve in fuel pump replace it or deal with it or could be cheap aftermarket pump and has hard time building unnecessary pressure to open poppet valves between before fuel injectors

crank pos. sensor or maf sensor ck. the fuel press reg. also

There is no electronic choke on this vehicle. this engine control adds more fuel on cold starts for through injectors pulse width to quicker starting. you may have a camsynchronizer and sensor going bye bye. looks like a little distriburor on top of waterpump. must have special tools to synchronize so don't pull out. also your fuel pump may be getting weak. you can try cycling key a few time to build fuel pressure before starts,replace fuel filter also and make sure air filter is ok.

You have a very common problem; your fuel pump needs replaced. Inside the outlet of the fuel pump is a "check valve", that holds fuel pressure from draining back to the tank. What you have happening is the fuel has emptied from the lines and the injector rail; the long cranking period is the time that it takes for the fuel to be pumped back to the engine. Replace the fuel pump & your problem will go away.

what do you mean start hard?
you mean slow cranking or long cranking before start?