Engine electricals

1. • 1 Turn the key on until the lights on the dash come on. If the dash lights fail to come on, the battery or battery connections are suspect, and you have eliminated an engine performance problem. If the lights come on, try to start the engine. If the engine does not turn over (it just makes a clicking sound), the battery is suspect. If the lights are on, and the engine turns over, but does not start, the issue is with performance. Go to Step 2 if the engine does not turn over. Go to Step 6 if the engine cranks but does not start.
     
   • 2 Inspect the battery terminal for corrosion and security. Clean the terminals if necessary by wetting them with water and pouring baking soda on the terminals. The baking soda neutralizes the acid and cleans the terminals. Wait for the terminals to stop foaming and clean with water. Take off the negative terminal and clean it with a wire brush. Leaving the negative terminal off, remove the positive and clean it with a wire brush. Reinstall the terminals with the positive first. Check to see if that solved the problem. If not take the voltmeter and check the voltage across the terminals, red lead of voltmeter on positive terminal and black on negative. There should be showing 12.3 or better volts. If the voltage is low it is under charged or incapable of holding a charge. Take the caps off the battery and check the cells one at a time with the hydrometer. The hydrometer reading should be the same on all cells if all cells are good. A fully charged battery will show 1,260 specific gravity on the hydrometer. Check the water level in the battery and fill as necessary with distilled water.
     
   • 3 Replace the caps on the battery and hook the load tester to the battery. Watch the voltage as you press the load button for five seconds. Note how much the voltage dropped while the load was being applied. Look on the battery label on top and look for the CCA, or cold cranking amps. Compare this with the diagrams on the load tester for that size battery. For example, a 550 cold cranking amp battery should not drop below 10.5 volts when a load is applied. This would indicate a bad cell in the battery and require replacement of battery.
     
   • 4 Check the black negative cable where it attaches to the engine and make sure it is tight. Check the positive cable and be sure it is tight on the starter.
     
   • 5 Disconnect the small wire from the starter solenoid. Clip the red lead on the voltmeter to the small wire and clip the black lead on the voltmeter to the battery. Have a friend turn the key to the start position. There should be power to the wire every time the ignition is turned to start. If there is power then the starter is the problem and needs to be replaced. If there is no power, check the fuse in the relay box on the driver's side fenderwell. If it is good then pull the starter relay out and check for power at one terminal. Put the red positive lead of the voltmeter in the relay terminal and touch the negative to the negative battery post to check for power. If there is power then have the assistant turn the key to the start position and check to see if another terminal has power. There should be two terminals with power when the ignition is in start. If there is power at a second terminal turn the key off. Take a jumper wire and jump the terminal with the power on constantly with one of the terminals that had no power. Try the next terminal if no response at the starter. When jumped, if the starter engages, the relay is at fault and needs to be replaced. If there was no power to the relay when the key was in the start position, then the ignition switch is at fault.
     
   • 6 Insert an extra spark plug into the end of one of the spark plug wires. Do not take a spark plug out of the engine for this test. If it is a coil over system, remove the 10 millimeter bolts from the coil and pull it out of the head and insert the plug and lay it on the valve cover or in a spot where the plug is grounded by touching metal. Do not touch this during this test or you will get shocked. Have the helper turn the engine over. Look at the plug for a spark every few revolutions. If there is no spark, there is an issue with the engine management system. Take the car to a shop with the right test equipment. If you see spark, the problem is in the fuel system.
     
   • 7 Look at the top of the engine and locate the fuel rail on the injectors. There should be a Schrader valve on the rail. Make sure to extinguish any cigarettes or heat source like an electric light bulb during this step. Take a small screwdriver or a nail and push in on the Schrader valve. Have the helper turn the key on and look for fuel pressure at the valve. If there was no Schrader on the rail, just loosen the fuel line for the same results. If there is no fuel expelled, check the fuel pump fuse and relay located in the relay box. If these are not faulty, the fuel pump has failed and is need of replacement.
     

You need to troubleshoot the relay and terminals. First try a different relay. Another relay in your car may be same part number relay as you pump relay, so check for that. Swap in a known good relay and try it.
If no help, look at relay. Is it 4 terminal or 5 terminal? If 4 terminal, easier to check. One terminal will be your power source, and hot at all times, so check for that-use your jumper wire (if no testlight or voltmeter), stick end in terminal and just touch metal, looking for spark indicating power. If no terminal has power, maybe only hot with key on, so turn key on and check for power. If no power, the feed from battery to fuse block is lost. If you have one power source, another terminal will be to the pump, the one you turned pump on with. Terminals 3 and 4 will be the signaling source to turn relay on through coil side of relay, and a terminal to ground, also on the coil side of relay. If you have constant power on one terminal, check for the signaling power. When the car is cranking over, the signal terminal should be hot-the signal will be coming from engine computer. So when cranking, relay socket should have two hot terminals. If you don't have two, you're right, relay is not getting correct power to the fuse block. BTW, don't use jumper wire to check for signaling source, use a testlight. Don't want to cause spark from computer wire.
What is EGI? Not familiar with that.

Use your crescent wrench to disconnect the positive and negative battery cables. Be careful not to touch both battery posts together with your wrench, as this will damage the battery and possibly harm you.

Use your spark plug socket to gently grab the insulated end of the spark plug wire; pull it away from the tip of the plug. The spark plug socket looks like a regular set of pliers, except that the jaws have rubber inserts to grip the insulation without damaging it. The plug wire itself looks like a 15-gauge wire with a rubber boot on each end: One end is connected to the spark plug present in each of the eight cylinders, while the other end is connected to a coil pack terminal, usually located on the right rear side of the engine compartment. The coil pack is a square, black, solid-state component that has eight terminals for each of the eight plug wires.

Use your spark plug socket to gently pull the coil pack end of the plug wire away from the terminal. Repeat the last two steps until all eight wires are removed.

Consult the service manual for your vehicle's year model and determine the exact firing order. You will need to connect each new wire to the numbered coil pack terminal and the corresponding engine cylinder. Failure to replace the wires in the right order will result in failure of engine operation.

Use your crescent wrench to reconnect the battery cables (black wire to black terminal, red wires to red terminal).

Start the vehicle and make sure it is running smoothly. If you hear misfiring in the engine, use the spark plug wrench to make sure all the connections are properly seated. If the condition continues, you will need to further diagnose the electrical system.

Are you sure you got the dustributor in the right tooth? Check timing using procedure at link below. Or, maybe you got a bad rebuilt. Here are some tests to check it out:
1993
See Figures 6 and 7

1. Check for spark at each spark plug with a spark tester. Check at least 2 plug wires.
2. If spark is only detected at some plugs, check for a faulty distributor cap or rotor. Also check the spark plugs and plug wires. Replace, if necessary.
3. Measure the resistance of the distributor connector C1 when cold, between terminals 3 and 6, using a digital voltmeter. If the camshaft position (CMP) sensor resistance is not between 185-275 ohms, replace the distributor housing.
4. Measure the resistance of the distributor connector C1 when cold, between terminals 2 and 5, using a digital voltmeter. If the camshaft position (CMP) sensor resistance is not between 370-550 ohms, replace the distributor housing.
5. Measure the resistance of the distributor connector C1 when hot, between terminals 3 and 6, using a digital voltmeter. If the camshaft position (CMP) sensor resistance is not between 240-325 ohms, replace the distributor housing.
6. Measure the resistance of the distributor connector C1 when hot, between terminals 2 and 5, using a digital voltmeter. If the camshaft position (CMP) sensor resistance is not between 475-650 ohms, replace the distributor housing.
7. Measure the air gap between the signal rotor and the camshaft position (CMP) sensor. If the air gap is not 0.008-0.016 inch (0.2-0.4 mm), replace the distributor housing.

Fig 6

Fig 7

Repair Guides Ignition Timing Checking And Adjustment AutoZone com

In all the automotive vehicle the positive terminals are connected to the body/frame. the wiring which runs around for all the electrical part is always negative terminal.

Smilarly the ignition coil lead is one terminal & the body of the spark plug is other terminal.

That is the reason you see the spark jumps from the center to the lug in spark plug.