The first problem is there was a wiring change in the 2000 model and those switches don't wire the same way as the 99. Before I can figure out the rest of the problem I need to know what it is your calling a "GEM". I've been working on cars and trucks 40 years and never heard that term before. I can only guess the real problem is going to be a bad fuse in the fuse box or in the Power Distribution box under the hood. The Power Distribution box is the most probable problem.
ok, I believe what you are calling a "Gem" is actually a Relay switch. The power on the Ignition switch wires is possibly the problem but I don't have a detailed wiring schematic to diagnose those. Some of those are only going to be live when the ignition is turned fully on to activate the starter and others will only be hot with the switch in the on position and yet a different set will be hot if the switch is in Accessory, if equipped with that feature. It is not uncommon for a relay not to be active unless the vehicle is running. If that relay doesn't have power it is probably due to a fuse or broken relay in the Power Distribution box under the hood or a faulty circuit in the Voltage regulator. The other reason you may not be getting power to that circuit is as I warned, the two wiring harnesses look like they are interchangeable but really are not because they have different connections on the ECM which is the main control for your vehicle or vehicle computer. The power may be there but it's going down a different wire or the signal to power a circuit is not reaching the ECM. I would not try and apply direct power to that circuit because you have no idea what that is going to do to the system and you may very well fry the whole system.
A major problem your going to have with a wiring harness from a different year than the vehicle you are trying to fix is you have no way to confirm if the wiring was the same unless you pull the whole harness and compare every wire location in every jack.
The best source I have found for what you are trying to do with a test light is the Haynes repair manual. There are wiring diagrams in that you can use. Unfortunately I can not provide a free version as it is copy right protected. The manual is available at most Major Auto parts stores.
What you are calling a GEM I have always known as a Dash Control Module or Electrical Interface Module. It is possible that is faulty but like the ECM you are not going to want to take one from a different year model than the vehicle you are working on. Ford changes those harnesses without warning and when they make changes sometimes it's a simple wire color while other times they actually change what wires connect to what location on a major module. I've seen people blow their ECM's trying to change out wiring harnesses between year models. I know I keep giving you this warning but I don't want to damage your vehicle and ECM units are expensive.
I honestly believe this is going to turn out to be an In-Line fuse link or bad circuit in the Power distribution box or an Ignition switch issue but without a replacement to test with, the 98 may fit the 99, or a electrical diagram of that ignition switch it is going to be hard to tell. It could be nothing more than a connector coming lose under the dash as well. I would switch to using a multimeter instead of a test light so you can check continuity across links that may have burned out. A Fuse Link in a lot of Fords can be little more than a bump in a wire that is about twice the diameter of the wire itself. If you don't have continuity on when you contact the wire on both sides of that bypass it and see if it fixes the problem. These are mostly located on the positive lines.
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First you need to do a physical inspection on the wire. You need to check loose connections or exposed conductors. You then have the option to remedy by refitting loose connections, covering the exposed conductors with electrical tape or replacing the wire.
It would be best to have a multi-tester or multimeter. This should include a continuity tester and a voltmeter. With the use of the continuity tester you can put probes at both ends of the wiring and listen if the meter would beep which mines the lines are not cure or breakage between the ends. A voltmeter is used to measure if you are getting voltage to the end or the wires or the terminals of the switch or the motor. Weak voltage may mean a weak battery or the wires are not connected securely at either end. No voltage at the end of the motor but power to the side of the switch where the wires go to the battery means a problem with the switch. Others use a test light which is like a continuity tester when it lights up.
It does looks like a wiring issue the way you described the problem but it is a good idea to test.
You did quite a work there congratulations. Absolutely you can jump wires. A trick is to use your jumper wire with a fuse connected to it as a precaution. If you can read wiring diagrams this can help,:
http://www.wiringdiagrams21.com/2008/07/...
Other than the resource above you may need to get yourself a HAnes manual. I am unsure if the radio wiring is included but just be aware that for the radio, the green wire is the ground. Avoid making a jumper to the ground and you should be ok.
let me correct the post I made. The ground wire for the radio is colored green with black.
no worries. you need to do a closer visual inspection on the wires first before starting again. Check again the rest of the fuses for blown ones. I do not recommend the jumper for permanent fix.. just for testing
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WOW I just spent 5 minutes getting back to you then got kicked off the page, I found no power with my test light on fuse #20, this is the gem which operates the radio and windows, I found power, the light lights up on fuse #3, this the turn singel and stop light, can I jump the fuse from the #3 to #20 to see if I get power to the gem and seeing if radio lights up, then trying windows, and how do I jump it to do this, thank you
Hi did you get my comment, I posted yesterday, I got no power on #20 fuse, the gem, but power on #3, can I jump 3 to 20 as they are both 7.5 amps and see if I get the gem to work, I hope the radio at least lights up the clock then I might try the windows, but I dont want to blow any circuits or relays
well I stink, I tried the jumper wire method with the 7.5 amp fuse in between cause if it blows I dont want to damange anthing, well , now I dont have gauges, that is no voltage gauge, when just on assessory, then when runing no tack, temp , the fuel gauge works great , I took one step forward and two back, the car starts, headlights work, no radio power windows mirrors or back wiper, It is a heat wave here in pa , but it is that way anywhere in the us, going to take a brake and try tomorrow night, thanksfor getting back to me, Bruce
on my 99 ford explorer I found when I use the trouble light with the ignition switch on I get no power on fuse 1, 3, 4 5, I do get the light to light on fuse 2, 6 and 7, I have no gauges bat tack oil or temp no power windows, power mirrors or radio, also no rear window wiper, and help thanks, Bruce
ok the gem is the generit electric module located in the dash behind the radio, but for now lets just address why I have no power on fuses #1,3,4,5, this is with a test light and key in on position, do have power on fuse #2,6,7,18, also how come in the owners manual fuse #4 is the left headlight yet they both headlights light, even fuse #4 has no power going to it , I lost with this troble light, useing a test lamp for power, does power first go to the distrubution box first before going to fuse box, if so could there be something amiss there, thanks for any help, Bruce
ok , also I have a 98 2 door explorer, could I check relays and things with that , instead of the 2000, cause you said some wiring changes are going on with that car
I dont know if you got my last post the one before the info about the 98, in case you didnt, here goes, I have no power at fuses #1,3,4,5, but do have power at fuses #2,6,7 and 18 , these are located at the drivers door, this was done with a test light, lighting when it got power, not lighting when no power, key was in the on position, as far as the distrubution box there are fuses there they look good does power start from the battery go to the distrubution box then to the fuse box? and what about the relays in the distrubution box, also there are some relays under the steering wheel, what are they for, thanks for any help, Bruce
the gem is the genertic electric module, located in dash under the radio, it has 4 wire harness going to it, something about this controling windows mirrors, and radio, and a lot of other stuff
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