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Car stalls periodically - engine keeps running but doesn't respond to gas pedal - sometimes gas tank is full, sometimes empty. Check engine light comes on but doesn't stay on. Now ignition key is hot when taken from ignition.
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I own a 1992 740 and have been through the stalling issue. Tried everything mentioned in other suggestions. Expensive and aggravating. Finally turned out to be the spark module. My Volvo has the Rex/Regina engine management system and the module sits on the left front fender. The wire to the distributor is very long and runs to the bottom of the distributor. As a start I would check and clean all wires leading to and from the coil module. Sometimes the high voltage lead gets dirty or corroded. Remove each connector plug (one at a time) spray a little contact cleaner, re-insert it a couple of times. Sometimes just turning the high voltage lead will clean it a little.
Also check to be sure the manifold pressure module is properly connected. It has a thin vacuum hose running from the module (on the driver's side inner fender near the firewall) to the top of the intake manifold. If that hose is loose or disconnected, car will run rough and stall.
Just a question. Do you run your car on empty. If so that could be your problem with an empty tank you are sucking all the dirt through the filter and making it plug up. It is better to keep your tank above half full and does not cost any more than to run on empty. All mechanics will tell you to always keep your tank above half full.
Try increasing the idle speed. If you don't know, this is how to do it.
Open the bonnet and ask someone to push and release the gas pedal a five second intervals.
Observe which part is moving.
Yo will see a small adjustment screw on that lever. You will understand that by adjusting the screw you can increase the gas supply to the engine.
Slowly rotate the screw while the engine is running. (If the engine doesn't run in idle state as you have explained, ask someone to keep the pedal slightly pressed. After increasing the gas supply, ask the person to release the pedal). Adjust it further to get a smooth running condition at idling. Also check whether air cleaner is blocked.
Have you tested your brake booster and your calipers?Your brake booster doesn't make any noise, and it doesn't use any
electricity or gasoline, but it ensures that you can stop your car with
only a light touch of the brake pedal. Things weren't always like that:
before the invention of the vacuum brake booster, cars still stopped.
It's just that you had to really stomp on the brake pedal. The modern
brake booster is an ingenious device that operates using something that
your engine generates whenever it's running: vacuum. The brake booster
takes engine vacuum via a rubber hose that runs from the intake
manifold, and the brake booster uses that vacuum to amplify the pressure
you put on the pedal. A light application of the brakes is translated
by the brake booster into significantly more pressure on the brake
master cylinder, ensuring that your car stops quickly. So what happens
to the brake booster if your car stalls, resulting in a loss of engine
vacuum? Early designers realized that gas engines were hardly foolproof,
so they designed a little check valve into the brake booster circuit.
The brake booster stores enough vacuum to provide full boost for two or
three pedal applications even after the engine dies. The check valve on
the brake booster is what keeps that vacuum from leaking out. And
speaking of leaks, that's the reason most brake booster units have to be
replaced. As your brake booster ages, the rubber seals and diaphragms
that hold the vacuum tend to wear out and crack. If the brake booster
can't hold vacuum (despite the check valve's best efforts), its time is
up and you'll need a new or remanufactured new brake booster.
You didn't say how much fuel is in the tank when this happens. Some of these old GM cars will starve for fuel if the tank is near empty and you are braking or stopping with the car facing downhill. It could be rust or scale in the fuel tank clogging the screen around the fuel pump inlet. Sometimes, putting cleaner in the tank of an older car will only cause more debris to loosen up from the inside of the tank and make the problem worse. If the problem gets worse, I would guess tht a new fuel pump/sloat assembly is in order. You may have to have the tank removed and cleaned or replacedd with a new one to prevent the problem from reocurring.
Most likely it is running too ritch. should be around 7%. Mine did ecactly the same thing and I had several things done . Had the throttle body cleaned and installed a O2 senser.runs great now.
Did you replace the spark plugs? Did you do a tune up?
The gas may have condensation water if you didn't keep the tank full in cold weather. Try this and possibly add a cleaning agent for the clogged lines.
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