Coil and points get very hot! - F-100 Ford Cars & Trucks

Well the coil should not get hot - indicates too much current, meaning points are not doing their thing. Go back to basics - follow elect from battery - to points, point action correct- gap correct - measure voltage at coil, should go up and down as you hand turn the engine. Also put in a new capacity around the points.

Sounds like a partially shorted coil winding. When the coil gets hot the insulation at some point no longer protects the copper from the crack in the insulation. Have it checked at an electrical shop or just replace it...Good luck.

The standard wiring is like this. From the Ign. switch, when the key is on you have the hot coil wire, this wire will connect to the positive terminal on the coil. The negative side of the coil will go down to the distributor points connector where the condenser will also be wired. See #1 in this picture. Here is also a picture of how to wire your distributor. Now this picture shows a resistor wired to the positive side of the coil it is not necessary. It is used to save the points in some older systems. Some may not run with it. Hope this helps Fix Ya up.

I would check voltage to the coil

It should be less than 12 volts

Iam a 1960's guy, but don't remember the exact voltage
There should be a resistor before the coil

Points are set to a specific gap or you use a dwell meter,
at least back in the day

The distributor needs to be on a clean surface ,so the points
& coil can ground out properly.

The idle could be valves,vacuum leaks,carb,any number of things

You may want a grounding strap from engine to body & sub frame

Check the alternator for AC Leakage (current ripple)

The points may be closed up . This would complete the ignition coil circuit heating the coil but as the points would not open there would be no spark. First check that the distributor shaft is rotating and the contact point gap is set corectly when the rubbing block of the points is on the edge of the distributor shaft cam. From memory the gap should be .45 mm or 20 thou . Failing that the coil could have shorted out internally. Make sure if you replace the coil that you get the correct coil for the car.

This should be simple, run one wire from a switch on hot thru a ballast resistor(available from NAPA for about 15 dollars) to the Positive side of the ignition coil. Make sure this wire stays hot while the engine is turning over, if this is in a 85 truck use the wire that hooked to the origional distributor. Then run a wire from the negative side of the coil to the points, thats all there is to it. Just curious as to why you are using points instead of the HEI distributor that came in the truck. You only need to change the module from the 5 pin module to the 4 pin module, and this will eliminate the computer control in the ignition system.

did you replace the coil wire?
and distrubtorcap and rotor?

ar the points fused together the wiear is pinched betwean the cap and distributor.

Hello, I see you have changed all but the condensor? this may be the last item to sort it?
Have you tried a hot wire direct to the coil to eliminate ignition switch?
Hope this helps!
Please remember to rate my effort.
Paul 'W'
Onyer~EDson(:0) {#><U.K.

negative to the points, positive to the hot wire that goes to the firewall.