I have installed a new accumulator, evaporator, condenser , expansion tube and compressor in my 1999 chevy monte carlo. i put 9 0zs. refrigerant oil between the compresser and the accumulator. i also evacuated the system. i started to put the freon in, but the clutch would not kick in.

Not sure why you need a diagram, anywhere there is a joint you will find o-rings. Inlet and outlet of condenser, inlet and outlet of compressor, inlet and outlet of evaporator core, and inlet and outlet of accumulator. That is all you have.

The amount of oil is 8 Oz, Type is pag 150 but GM superceded that to show pag 46

An accumulator is a physical component in an auto's air-conditioning system. It is made of metal and is cylindrical in shape.

It is similar in shape, yet larger- than the a/c system's receiver/drier; which is another important component to a car's air conditioning system.

The accumulator is connected to the evaporator outlet, on the low-pressure side of the system.

[Whereas, the receiver/drier is located on the high-pressure side of the a/c system and can be connected directly to the condenser; or between the condenser and the expansion valve; and it serves a totally different function than the accumulator. 1.) it acts as a temporary storage container for oil and refrigerant when neither are needed for system operation; hence the name, receiver. 2.) it contains a filter that can trap impurities that may be inside the A/C system; and 3.) it contains desiccant to absorb moisture (humidity) that may have gotten inside the A/C system]

Anyway, the accumulator's primary function is to store liquid refrigerant that is exiting the evaporator, to prevent it from reaching the compressor. If liquid refrigerant were to enter the compressor, it could cause damage, as the compressor is not designed to pump liquid, only vapor.

The accumulator also allows the refrigerant the time to warm up and change from a liquid to a vapor, before being drawn back into the compressor.

An accumulator also serves as a temporary storage container for oil when the oil is not needed by the system and like the drier, it too contains desiccant and a filter.

It is recommended that both be replaced in the event the system is opened to the environment during the servicing or repair of the car's a/c system

To install the valve you pull out the old one and just push the new one into place. Just be sure you put the new one in the same as the old one came out. They do have a direction of flow.

It is located inside the condensor tube running to the evaporator.

Here are the removal/installation instructions as per alldata:

TOOLS REQUIRED

J 39400-A Halogen Leak Detector
J 26549-E Orifice Tube Remover

REMOVAL PROCEDURE
-Recover the refrigerant. Refer to Refrigerant Recovery and Recharging.
-Remove the air cleaner assembly.
-Remove the vacuum brake booster.
-Remove the condenser tube.
-Use J 26549-E in order to remove the expansion orifice tube. IMPORTANT: DO NOT use any solvents or chemicals to clean the porous plastic inlet filter of the expansion orifice tube.
-Inspect the expansion orifice tube for the following conditions and clean or replace with a new tube as indicated:
-Broken plastic frame (1); replace the tube.
Inlet filter (3) damaged or plugged with fine gritty material; replace the tube.
Inlet filter (3) coated with metal chips, flakes, or slivers; remove the coating with low pressure shop air ONLY and reuse if the filter is cleaned satisfactorily. Do NOT reuse the O-ring seals (2).

INSTALLATION PROCEDURE

IMPORTANT: Lubricate the new O-ring seals (2) with mineral base 525 viscosity refrigerant oil.
If you reuse the orifice tube, install new O-ring seals (2).
Carefully grasp the edge of the expansion orifice tube (1) without touching the inlet filter (3) and insert the expansion tube into the condenser tube until fully seated.
-Install the condenser tube.
-Install the vacuum brake booster.
-Install the air cleaner assembly.
-Evacuate and recharge the A/C system. Refer to Refrigerant Recovery and Recharging.
-Leak test the fittings of the component using J 39400-A.

TAKE CAR TO GARAGE OR DEALERSHIP.THEY HAVE TO DISCHARGE AND RECOVER THE REFRIGERANT FROM CAR STORING IT IN STORAGE RECOVER UNIT.AGAINST THE LAW TO LET OUT REFRIGERANT IN THE ATOMOSHERE CAUSING OZONE DAMAGE.WHEN REFRIGERANT IS REMOVED THIS WILL BE THE CHEAPEST WAY.FIRST GO TO AUTO PARTS STORE BUY A PACK OF O - RINGS FOR AIRCONDITIONERS SYSTEM.THEY SHOULD BE GREEN COLOR NOT BLACK ONES.THEY ARE THE UNIVERSAL O -RINGS NOT MADE FOR AIR CONDITION SYSTEM.THE REFRIGERANT WILL DESTROY AND CAUSE LEAKS.WHEN YOU BUY O - RINGS.BUY NEW ACCUMULATOR THE OLD ONE FULL OF MOISTURE.YOU NEED TO REPLACE THE EXPANSION TUBE OR ORIFICE TUBE.IT IS LOCATED AT CONDENSOR LOWER LINE FITTING.BUY 1 BOTTLE OF R- 134 REFRIGERANT OIL. THEN BUY NEW COMPRESSOR.WHEN REMOVING OLD COMPRESSOR POUR THE OIL OUT OF IT.MEASURE HOW MUCH OIL IN COMPRESSOR.OKAY TO REMOVE AC COMPRESSOR FIRST REMOVE DRIVE BELT.THEN SAFELY RAISE SUPPORT VECHICLE ON JACK STANDS ON LEVEL SOLID GROUND REMOVE WHEEL AND SPLASH SHIELD ON PASSENGER SIDE.DISCONNECT THE ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR FROM COMPRESSOR AND REMOVE COMPRESSOR REFRIGERANT LINES.THEN REMOVE COMPRESSOR MOUNTING BOLTS 2 BOLTS AT TOP 1 OR 2 BOLTS ON BOTTOM OF COMPRESSOR.WHEN REMOVING OLD COMPRESSOR.SEE HOW MUCH OIL COMES OUT.SHOULD BE A OUNCE OR TWO.GM COMPRESSOR HOLDS 10 TO 8 OUNCES.BUT WE DONT KNOW HOW MUCH IN SYSTEM.WHEN YOU BUY NEW COMPRESSOR.MEASURE HOW MUCH SHIPPING OIL IT HAS BY POURING IT OUT.TO BE ON SAFE SIDE I WOULD POUR 2 OUNCE REFRIGERANT OIL IN COMPRESSOR. POUR 1 OUNCE OIL IN ACCUMULATOR.REPLACE ALL THE O -RINGS AT THE COMPRESSOR AND ACCUMULATOR AND THE LOWER CONDENSORS LINES WHEN REPLACING THE ORIFICE TUBE.USE NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS TO REMOVE THE ORIFICE TUBE.BESURE TO PLACE THE LONG SCREEN ON THE INSIDE.BESURE TO LUBRICATE ALL O - RINGS WITH REFRIGERANT OIL.WHEN YOU PUT EVERYTHING BACK TOGETHER.DONT OVER TIGHTEN THE REFRIGERANT LINES WHICH WILL CUT THE O - RINGS CAUSE LEAKING. TAKE CAR TO A GARAGE THAT DOES AC WORK.LET THEM PUMP DOWN THE SYSTEM AND LEAK TEST THEN CHARGE AC SYSTEM UP.THIS WILL SAVE YOU MONEY BECAUSE IF YOU BUY A VACUUM PUMP THATS ABOUT $400.00 AND MANIFOLD GAUGE SET A GOOD SET RANGE FROM $100.00 TO $300.00 DOLLARS.SEE YOUR AC COMPRESSOR $270.00 TO OVER $300.00 THAT ADDS UP.HOPE MOST THIS INFORMATION WILL HELP YOU. IF YOU HAVE ANY PROBLEMS THE HAYNES REPAIR MANUAL CAN ALSO HELP YOU IT HAS PHOTOS AND INFORMATION HOW TO REMOVE AC COMPRESSOR.

on the tube between the firewall and the a/c compressor. On some Fords the low pressure port is on the dryer (aluminium cylinder). Good news is the low pressure and high pressure port are different sizes. You cannot mess it up.

Remember the flow for the a/c system is :
1. From the compressor a high pressure (HP) gas goes to the condenser in front of the radiator.
2. From the condenser a HP liquid goes to an expansion device (orifice tube or expansion valve)
3. From expansion device the low pressure gas enters the firewall to the evaporator.
4. From evaporator the low pressure liquid/gas mixture goes through the dryer back to the compressor suction

sounds like it could be one of many things, a plugged condenser or evaporator (inside or outside), a plugged orifice tube or a faulty compressor. If you don't can't turn the vapour refrigerant into liquid, it doesn't cool. Also, if you can't turn the liquid into a vapour, there is no flow of refrigerant, and therefore, still no cooling. It is common for dirt to accumulate in the evaporator core or the condenser and not allow it to cool.

Service and Repair
CAUTION: When the A/C compressor is inoperative due to internal causes, clean the refrigerant system to remove any debris or contaminants to prevent damage to the replacement A/C compressor.

Replacement of the suction accumulator/drier is necessary when the A/C compressor is replaced. The A/C evaporator core orifice should be replaced whenever the A/C compressor is replaced for lack of performance, or when there is debris in the system.

REMOVAL

1. Recover the A/C refrigerant system following the recommended procedure. Observe all safety precautions.
2. Drain and save the radiator coolant.
3. Disconnect the battery ground cable.
4. Disconnect and remove the constant control relay module.
5. Disconnect and remove the fan and the shroud assembly.
6. Disconnect the upper and the lower radiator hoses.
7. Remove the radiator.
8. Disconnect the A/C compressor clutch wire at the clutch field coil connector on the A/C compressor.
9. Remove the top two A/C compressor mounting bolts.
10. Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
11. From underneath the vehicle, loosen and remove the accessory drive belt.
12. Disconnect the Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) wire connector.
13. Remove the A/C muffler supporting strap bolt from the subframe.
14. Disconnect the A/C manifold and tube from the inlet tube of the A/C condenser core and the outlet tube of the suction accumulator/drier using the spring lock coupling tool or equivalent. CAUTION: Immediately install protective caps on open lines.
15. Ensure the A/C compressor is properly supported as the bolts are removed. Remove the bottom two A/C compressor mounting bolts.
16. Remove the A/C compressor and the A/C manifold and tube assemblies from the vehicle as a unit. Remove the assembly from the bottom, using care not to scrape it against the the A/C condenser core.
17. Remove the A/C manifold and tube from the A/C compressor.
18. If the old A/C compressor is to be replaced with a new one, remove the A/C clutch and the field coil assembly.

INSTALLATION

1. Service the replacement A/C compressor with the correct amount of clean Motorcraft YN-12b refrigerant oil or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSH-M1C231-B.
2. Lubricate the new O-ring seals with clean refrigerant oil and position them in the O-ring seal grooves of the A/C manifold and tube. Use only the O-ring seals specified for the type of A/C manifold and tube being used. NOTE: When replacing an A/C compressor, use the original manifold bolt from the removed A/C compressor to attach A/C manifold and tube to new A/C compressor. Do not use the shipping cap bolts.
3. Apply Pipe Sealant with Teflon D8AZ-19554-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSH-M2G350-A2 to the threads of the manifold retaining bolt.
4. Position the A/C manifold and tube with the O-ring seals to the A/C compressor. Install the retaining bolt and tighten to 17-23 Nm (12.5-17.0 ft lb) .

1. Install the A/C compressor and the A/C manifold and tube onto the A/C compressor mounting bracket.

1. Using new O-ring seals lubricated with clean Motorcraft YN-12b refrigerant oil or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSH-M1C231-B, connect the A/C manifold and tube to the inlet tube of the A/C condenser core.
2. Using new O-ring seals lubricated with clean Motorcraft YN-12b refrigerant oil or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSH-M1C231-B, connect the A/C manifold and tube to the outlet tube of the suction accumulator/drier.
3. Install the muffler support onto the subframe.
4. Connect the HO2S wire connector.
5. Install the accessory drive belt.
6. Lower the vehicle to the floor and perform the following operations from the top.
7. Install the radiator.
8. Connect the radiator hoses and tighten the hose clamps.
9. Install the fan and the shroud assembly.
10. Install and connect the constant control relay module connector.
11. Connect the battery ground cable. NOTE: On vehicles equipped with Electronic Engine Control (EEC) , when the battery has been disconnected and reconnected, some abnormal drive symptoms may occur while the EEC processor relearns its adaptive strategy. The vehicle may need to be driven 10 miles or more to relearn the strategy.
12. Fill the radiator with the reserved coolant.
13. Leak-test, evacuate, and charge the A/C system following the recommended procedures.
14. Check the A/C system for proper operation.