I have a 96 chev cavalier with the 2.4 engine, it suddenly went from normal to wont stay running. it sat for 3 days, started, ran for a short distance, then started to chug and not accelerate. it consistantly starts, runs up to 1500 rpms then slows to 4-500 rpms, chokes then dies
i have replaced ( at the suggestion of 'local experts') the EGR
(electronic, not vacuum) Throttle Pos Sensor, and PCM, nothing changed
it still started, ran great for 30-60 seconds then slows and dies
i was playing with vacuum line to the MAP when it started to run better, i replaced the vacuum line from the throttle body, to the inlet on the MAP
it ran 'normal' for a day, then right back to the same problem, i then replaced the MAP, nothing changed it starts, runs great for 30-60 sec then dies-
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I would suggest two things. First check to be sure fuel pump relay is staying on after starting. If vehicle has a security system, make sure it is not activated.
The fact that you get enhanced ignition by physically enriching the fuel air mix indicates that the normal mix is too lean, either too little fuel or too much air. 1) Check for leaks of un-metered air in to the air ducting and inlet manifold. Look for cracks and poor joints to all vacuum lines including the evaporative emission recovery lines. 2) Check that the EGR valve is closed off at start up: this should stay closed until engine has warmed up. 3) Finally check that the coolant temperature sensor is working OK; the sensor should be informing the ECU that the engine is cold and the ECU responds by ensuring an enriched fuel mix (by prolonging the injection cycle) during engine warm up.
Unless its CHEAP, I would keep looking. These were cheap cars, and most people that bought them were cheap, and did not service them regularly. If you really want it, pay a mechanic to look it over BEFORE you purchase it. If its really good, the seller wont have a problem with that, If they do, then pass.
Autozone and similar stores will check the codes in the computer for free usually. That is the best place to start. Other possibilities are Engine Coolant Temperature sensor (saying the engine is cold when it's not) or excessive fuel pressure (bad regulator or blocked return line)
It sounds like the fuel pressure regulator has gone bad and needs to be replaced. Start with that if your engine is flooding over with gas as you ****. If there is an Auto Zone around you area, have them scan the car for any DTC codes that may be related to your car not starting like a bad MAP sensor which would also cause a no start when the engine is hot. Auto Zone also carries the parts you will need to replace and can give you the step by step instructions to replacing the parts with common tools. If your good with tool both job should take about 30 min to replace. Good luck and keep me posted
It probably has a carburetor. You have to press the accelerator to set the choke. Sometimes, when it is cold, you have to press several times to spray gas into the engine in order for it to start. This is normal for a car with no fuel injection.
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