At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
SOMETIMES THERE IS A SCREW THROUGH THE FACE OF THE ROTOR BETWEEN THE LUG STUDS. IF YOU CANT GET IT LOOSE IT IS OK TO DRILL IT OUT. IT IS ONLY THERE TO HOLD THE ROTOR ON DURRING PRODUCTION.
Where to start. . . . A defective hose would only affect that wheel. A faulty booster or master cylinder could cause the front wheels to lock and at varied amounts. You may have a metering block or just a junction block for the front lines. It would be mounted near the frame if you have one. Some Ford models from 88 - 92 used a master cylinder with the metering valve built in. Its possible the front calipers got hot enough with the old pads to damage both front hoses. I would want to know what it takes to release the pressure on the pads. Do you have to take the hoses loose, or just the bleeder screws on the calipers ? Or are the calipers not sliding back and forth ?
Depending on the year and model, it may just be rusty- frozen on the hub. Sometimes you have to use a very large hammer to break it loose. But using a hammer may damage it beyond the point of being useable.
Its possible that the driver side is not clamping well. Sticky caliper piston. Forcing the passenger side to do most of the work. This will result in rapid overheating which will cause the passenger rotor to look bad after a short drive. Does driver side still look new? Do you feel any sideways pulling when braking? What prompted you to look again after changing rotors and pads? Since you first noticed noise on passenger side, indicating excessive wear, I think the problem is the drivers side caliper. You could try working caliper piston out and in a few tmes, but usually you want to replace a problem caliper.
ther are acorn or christmas tree clips some people call them around the bottom of the door. There are also two large philips head screws located behind the armrest and if you have a pull strap for closing the door there may be two there as well. there is also a screw that holds the trim for the door handle itself.
It may be the bearing. located underneath the wheel rotor on the wheel axle. Lift up the car and remove the wheel, brake pads and rotor. remove the rotor and turn the nut that holds to axle in place by removing a small pin. (if there is one) and turning counter clockwise. you will see the bearing under the rotor. Check for missing bearings , dirty oil debris, etc. If it has any of this , replace with new bearing. The exact way you removed it. Do not overtighten the nut. This will cause the bearing to overheat. just tighten enough for the bearing to fit snug with no movement.Make sure you grease up the new bearing good.
×