Clutch pedal goes strait to the floor??clutch won't bleed up??

no year TOLD AT ALL 2001 TO NOW, 22 YEARS MADE
WE CAN NOT GUESS ENGINE OR TRANSMISSION OR YEARS.
THE VIN CODE ALSO TELLS YEAR AND ENGINE,.



iHAVE SEEN ALL FAILURES AND FIXED THEM ALL !
FOR AGE/WEAR CAUSES OR RACING BOTH.

i CAN ONLY ASSUME WHAT WAS DONE.;
NEW FULL CLUTCH KIT, PP, DISK,THRO/OUT BEARING, PILOT BEARING, SLAVE AND A NEW CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER?
no? forgot MC did you>?

YOU DO KNOW THAT MC AND SLAVE BOTH WANT TO FAIL TOGETHER, (CORROSION INSIDE)
AND BLEEDING IS HARD, BUBBLES FLOAT UP AS BLEED.HAPPENS( a small war here)
AND GRAVITY BLEED HERE IS HOPELESS. sorry.

TOP END PRESSURE BLEEDING WINS. OR LOTS OF WORK DOING IT WRONG.(the lines are up HILL and bubbles float up)_
VACUUM BLEED CAN WORK IF HAND PUMP IS AGGRESSIVE.
meet MASTER cyclinder MC>

EVER SEE OWN ANY MC CAN FAILs.'?
1st things.1st. (ive also seen pedals cracked so bad up top MC does not move.) looking at it is the cure here. easy as pie.

THE PEDAL TO REAR OF MC, MUST HAVE GAP CLEARANCE
OR THE MC CAN NOT RECHARGE ON THE UP STROKE.
the MC bore has recharge port that must not be blocked, pedal up.


NOW LEARN MC GUTS INSIDE
THERE ARE 2 SEALS OR MORE. ONE OUTSIDE STOPS LEAKS, THEN 1 OR 2 INSIDE, ALLOWS IT TO PUMP AND MAKE PRESSURE, IF THIS INSIDE SEAL FAILS (UNSEEN BY HUMANS LACKING SUPERMAN XRAY VISION) THE MC IS 100%^ USELESS
PUT IN A NEW MC, AND SLAVE WAYWAY BEFORE THE MAIN CLUTCH, TRANNY PULLED.
REAR OF FIRE WALL LEAKING FLUID AT MC/?
SEE SEAL ON PISTON , CENTER HERE IT IS BAD.
SEEN HERE JUST ABOVE FIXING NUT.
https://www.howacarworks.com/illustrations/clutch-master-cylinder


see my drawing
seal 7 fails MC is 100% dead
blue arrow right some free play must be there.
purple arrow left is the charge port, if block MC is dead.
if no free play charge port is dead.
this is 1st things 1st rules. or the whole system goes dead.
the rear seal here 9 only stop leaks down both sides of the fire wall.
I got this from Superman , (xray vision)
or the spring 4, rusted to nothing but dust (iron oxide)

If your fluid was low (which is why you likely added some,) you may need to "bleed" your clutch master cylinder.

If the clutch is hydraulic operated, you need to bleed the clutch at the slave cylinder, down on the transmission housing. Bleed it just like you bleed brakes of air in the line-open bleeder valve, someone pushes clutch pedal slowly to floor, close valve, and repeat until fluid comes out valve in a steady stream. Make sure the clutch reservoir is full before starting. It uses regular brake fluid.
If not hydraulic, it would be cable operated. Adjust the cable until clutch pedal is right.

If your clutch pedal doesn't quite have the pressure it used to, or your clutch fluid just looks old and dirty, it may be time to bleed and/or replace the clutch fluid.
Items needed:

8mm open or box end wrench
Clear tube (1/4" ID)
One bottle DOT3/DOT4 brake fluid (doesn't have to be full)
A friend to press the clutch pedal for you

Locate the bleeder valve on the clutch slave cylinder.

Use your 8mm wrench to open the valve one full turn, don't remove it.

Stick your hose over the bleeder valve and have it drop off into a container.
Be sure to check the clutch fluid level before bleeding the system, you don't want to let it get below the MIN line.

Have your friend pump the clutch pedal to start removing the fluid. Don't be con if they tell you the pedal went down to floor and won't come back up on it's own, that's normal. They'll just have to wedge it back up with their foot.

NOTE: When bleeding the system, make sure the cap is ON or you will just be sucking in air

Refill the clutch fluid as necessary to keep it above the MIN line. Since the clutch fluid reservoir is very small you'll have to keep a close eye on it.
I just had some extra ATE brake fluid left over from my brake fluid change so I decided to just use it since it is a DOT3/DOT4 fluid. But high performance fluids are not necessary for the clutch fluid so you can just use regular cheap DOT3 or DOT4 fluid and it won't make a difference.

When you see the fluid in the hose change completely from the old color to the new color then you know the system has been flushed and is now full of new clutch fluid. Have your friend do one l press of the clutch pedal and tighten the bleeder valve once the pedal hits the floor. Since you can't use a torque wrench on the bleeder valve, it's important to note it does not need to be very tight so don't try overtightening it and just snug it up with your wrench.

Pump the clutch pedal again and the pressure should return. And that's all, you're finished.

this video tutorial can help you.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a-XhFxlkzFI&feature=player_detailpage

The clutch should go to the floor =) But if it's not disengaging the clutch disk, there's definitely a problem between the pedal and the clutch disk. I'm guessing you have a hydraulic clutch?

Hi replace the clutch cylender

Hi it's need to inspect the line from clutch to the slave cylender if the line is good the change clutch cylender

Sounds like the slave cylinder inside bell housing is leaking. Replace both cylinders when fixing. the clutch plate and flywheel should be inspected for wear.

Pump the clutch pedal and then check for leaks again, including under the dash where the rod from the pedal goes into the clutch master cylinder. Once you find the leak, replace what's leaking and bleed the system to restore the pressure (bleeds from the slave unit, just like bleeding brakes)

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