My advice is take the battery into your local auto parts store and have them test it. If it tests bad then the battery is bad and should be replaced. Most battery manufacturers will supply a warranty and if it is that new then they should replace it for free.
It is entirely possible that two batteries have gone bad in two years, it depends on what driving conditions are like, where the car is stored, what the weather is like, and sometimes you just get unlucky and get a battery that shouldn't have passed the quality testing from the manufacturer.
It is possible that you have something in the car that is draining the battery while its not on, but batteries are designed to handle that and a quick recharge should take care of it. If the battery won't recharge then it is dead.
I work in the car battery industry and they are designed to handle thousands and thousands of charge/discharge cycles (assuming you buy a high quality battery). Sometimes you buy "lemons" but the manufacturers warranty will take care of you if that's the case.
I also have a 2008 Lincoln MKZ which now has 38,000 miles. This car is now on it's third battery. The last one lasted 10 months. So, I believe they have a real problem, but the dealer does not agree. This car is in the Florida heat, if that is part of the problem.
Warranty covers it all, but I still have the down time.
Jim in Sun City Center, Florida
My MKZ in florida is driven every day. It does have front seat heating and cooling. I will keep the "modules draining" suggestion in mind next time I have the car in.
My neighbor directly across the street has a 2010 MKZ. His original battery lasted last than one year. These are 8 year batteries.
Jim
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Okay, i can tell you that if this car sits alot that this is your problem, these cars have alot of computers and other things that draw on the battery and drain it if the car sits for a while, im talking about two weeks or so. theres a nice setup that i have installed in some of our customers cars as they move to florida and back during the year, its a box connected to the battery with a remote control like an alarm clicker, this is easy to connect and will shut down the power to keep battery charged if it sees the battery drop below 12.5 volts and the other is a charger and theres a plug you connect to power to keep battery up, but if this car is not sitting for a while and its draining the battery to the point of needingreplacemnet then theres a problem, ive found some with seat heater modules draining the battery, i would have the dealer check it, this should be under warranty check it out, call the dealer and ask them. good day.
Make sure you have no accessory devices plugged into power ports, e.g. navigation, cell phone, even chargers may draw continuous power.
If no accessory devices or chargers then lkely there is an excessive parasitic drain.
The multiple computer controlled modules that are in modern cars never completely power down. After a certain period of time they go into a an extreme low power (sleep).
Problems arise with software defects and other elecromechanical failures that can prevent control modules to properly enter and stay in sleep mode.
Something as simple as a low battery in a key fob or out of date Ford SYNC media software can drain a battery.
The constant low battery charge causes sulfation of the battery plates. Traditional battery chargers cannot remove the sulphide crystals and the battery prematurely fails.
Tracking down the myriad causes is time consuming and expensive if you cant DYI.
The simplest solution is to plug the vehicle into a desulphating charger every night. Likely you'll need to start nightly charging with new battery.
Ok are you ready there are a couple of things here that cause your problems here first turn off the headlights delay from staying on after you leave the vehicle it puts a high drain on the battery next make sure all doors are not moving inwards when you press on them because if they do your door post is loose and the interior light is staying on all night//next make sure all fuses are tight and that the battery cables and power distribution box cable and lug are clean of corrosion as well as the starter cable and engine ground from the battery to the engine block any break in electrical contact will make the lights come on and drain the battery especially if you have the alarm silenced you don't know that it's happening when your asleep then you come out in the morning and use your key fob to get in and you don't know that this happened all night observe your anti theft light if it's blinking rapidly before entering you use your key fob from outside the vehicle while looking in the window to see it go back to a 1 second flash //next if you hear a whistling sound in your radio am/fm when you press on the gas pedal and the whistling pitch raises as rpm's increase you have a blown diode in the alternator and yes it will still charge the battery and when checked it will show that it's charging but it's not charging enough and when the vehicle is turned off it will cause a drain on the battery because there is now an open circuit in the alternator and even though it's not running certain circuits are associated with that diode causing the open in it and the power drain especially if you have been giving jump starts with both cables connected to both batteries once that other vehicle starts there is now double the voltage going into your voltage regulator and in there alternator to this blows the diode/s in it depending on which ones have blown out will dictate what's happened and couple this now with other things described earlier here will kill the batteries quickly because of so much electronics in these particular vehicles so inspect for all possibilities here posted and your battery will last longer next post coming in comment's about jump starting if you have to good luck stephen
When you give a jump start with these vehicles always have the positive cable on the battery and the negative on body ground not the battery ground instant diode being blown will result next always let your engine run and charge the other battery for 5-10 minutes without the other driver turning the key in there vehicle if there's went dead from lights left on this is enough charge for them to start REMOVE THE CABLES BEFORE THEY ATTEMPT TO START THERE CAR WITH THE KEY OTHERWISE IF THERE'S IS SEVERELY DISCHARGED AND HAS A BURNED CELL OR 2 IN IT this will put a very heavy draw on your alternator and repeating cranking will do in your diodes inside even though your cables are positive to positive negative to body ground the repeating hard cranking makes your alternator being drawn on hot inside wires and diodes can burn out melt so just give the battery sufficient time to charge with the cables connected then disconnect them and then let them try to start it,if there vehicle doesn't start there's more that's wrong and you will be at risk for being the next person stuck ok and the combination of this and my first post description will be the result burned out batteries in months ok your vehicles have an intense power draw to begin with and a problem with diodes and power draining headlights on to long will also contribute to it
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Interesting, my 2008 mkz seems to go through a battery every 18 months. The dealer keeps replacing them. Dealer test do not find anything wrong with the electrical system. I wonder what may be going on. Also, my MY2010 MKX battery only lasted 2 years.
My late 2017 MKZ 3.0T has 26K on it, and the battery drops to unable to start the car after 3-4 days of typical driving. Alternator is fine. I'm having a new Exide MArathon Max installed--but according to various sources, the car "eats" batteries! Anyone with similar input?
On some Fords the stereo amplifier causes key off drains .
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