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My cruise control has stopped working altogether. It started cutting out about 3 months ago. I had some work done on transmission last week and now cruise does not work at all.
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CAR STARTS RUNS AND DRIVES.
SO ONLY THE IP CLUSTER FAILS.
next is check all fuses, for sure to cluster. 4 fuse run it. or more. and PTC fuse 2. skip no cab or engine b ay fuses check them all first.
SPEED CONTROLS MEANS ;CRUISE DEAD
WELL LEARN THAT CRUISE WORKS ONLY IF ALL KEY THINGS WORK EVEN BRAKE LAMPS.
FORGET CRUISE TO LAST, fix this only LAST.
cruise can never work if speed is failing VSS for any reasons.
what "NO BUS" means ,I can not guess this,at all.
so odometer is dead but shows what/
blank, -------,.------,?????? or what be clear on this.
all gauges are dead, that means the IP cluster brain can noT communicate.
any scan tool used here OBD2 you will see what fails
it sure will but every poster here 99% fears scan tools not sure why at all. me.?
start car now and and idle it
use DMM meter measure battery volts
13. to 15vdc is a MUST, if not alternator is dead or its fuses blow or gee both.
if true stop and fix this first or computers in the car will lie to you and go quite mad.
this test is on page 1 of all modern cars chapter electronics failing and testing
the battery must be fully charged
and a good battery
and alternator works fully. tested.
and all fuse tested good.
or as any car battery gets weak near 10vdc
any and all electronics onboard die or go crazy random acts. don't let this happen to you.
if the starter motor sounds fast and robust the battery may be ok.
but if sounds week we change it till it sounds right.
or replace it or jumper cable jump any car with a very low weak battery . to get voltages above 13vdc.
Terrible news for you, you may have already figured out.
These accessories are in the category of : " Be thankful it lasted this long " !
Now, about a fix.
Here are some of the things that have caused my cruise to stop working.
Check these out on yours.
1) The engine mounts got loose, affecting the adjustment of the cruise control to the throttle body.
2) The cruise throttle body got loose on the inner fender due to loose screws or out-of-adjustment brackets.
3) The brake pedal switch got loose and caused the cruise to think you were pressing the brake when you weren't.
4) The drive shaft sensor/magnet fell off because of old age. (The glue failed)
God bless your efforts.
no year stated, wow. the first checks are not the CRUISE. they are: 1: all fuses good. 2: CEL lamp out driving, if not the PCM will in fact cut Cruise function ( preventing TOYOTA SYNDROME) 3: scan tool do a full PCM scan, got errors. got DTCs, bingo.
today cruise is the last to work, (a very serious safety issue)
check for power to the reversing light switch ,open a paper clip up and bridge the connections to see if the reversing lights work as for the cruise its possible its the same fuse but never seen a focus with cruise on here in spain so i wouldnt know
The only thing I can think is that the cruise control and the other computerized functions all share the same electronic module. The added current to drive the valves of the cruise control might be just enough to cause a temperature failure that cools down back into the operational zone in the 2 to 3 seconds it takes you to restart the engine.
It could also be faulty programming, where the part of the code that causes the failure only gets included in the operation of the car while the CC is on.
It's mystifying.
Call the dealer to see if there is a bulletin or a recall.
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