WOW! I bet that was expensive!!! It sounds like we're saving money on the D.I.Y. now!
Please review this article:
What Else Could Be Wrong?
Your problem could be caused by the Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS) - it may be malfunctioning and disabling the ignition system. (Not recognizing your key, or low ignition voltage to the PATS module, etc.)
It could be interference from any aftermarket equipment that you may have installed on your vehicle like remote start, security/alarm system, etc. If you don't have any aftermarket equipment installed, just disregard this. If you DO have aftermarket equipment installed, The troubleshooting charts published by Ford Motor Company for your vehicle state that proper diagnosis can only begin AFTER all such equipment is COMPLETELY removed from the vehicle and the vehicle must be RESTORED to a factory-like configuration. (Otherwise you could be spinning your wheels for weeks trying to figure out what is wrong.)
It could be a failed Powertrain Control Module (PCM). It could be a bad ignition switch not providing power to the PCM. It could be a bad PCM Power Relay. It could be any one of several sensors shorting out the 5-volt reference signal from the PCM. (Which would render the NEW crank sensor and cam sensor useless.)
In short, it COULD be caused by a LONG list of things.
The FIRST STEP in the troubleshooting charts is to SCAN THE PCM for fault codes. You are dealing with a computer-controlled ignition system and you cannot simply ignore the computer that controls it and expect to figure out why it is malfunctioning.
NOTE: a "generic OBD" code reader may or may not be sufficient to identify the source of your problem. Most generic code readers cannot access the General Electronic Module (GEM) or your PATS. They can also only read "Continuous Memory" codes. They do not have the technology required to perform Key-On-Engine-Off (KOEO) or Key-On-Engine-Running (KOER) diagnosis. If you have more than one code in continuous memory, then KOEO diagnostics must be performed to determine which code has priority in the diagnostic routine. KOEO codes are known as "HARD FAULTS" - which means that the problem is present RIGHT NOW. The continuous memory codes can sometimes cause confusion because sometimes the problem has already been fixed, but the codes did not get cleared properly, so the code is still in memory, but the problem that caused the code no longer exists. Continuous memory codes should always be placed on the "back burner" unless they are the only codes present. Again, a generic code reader can't read any other codes, so you don't know what is what unless you clear the codes and are able to get the code to set in continuous memory again. (Only then, can is be considered a "current" code.)
Sounds like the drivers for the coil packs have went out. This is the ECM. You can get one at a parts store, $170.00. But will still need to have it programmed. some parts stores can do this aroud $60.00. You can also get one at a junk yard, $50.00 and have it programmed. You will have to match the manufacturers serial number for it to work. Most junk yards can help you with the numbers
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