Sadly the early version of the 4 speed is prone to this type of failure. I have owed 4 that had this exact problem. the rear end of the main transmission case wears down at the transfer case and this causes an internal leak. The loss of fluid pressure causes the loss of function. I'm confident that a good transmission shop can fix this by using a case and parts from a newer version of the 4 speed auto
SOURCE: subaru legacy wagon
This problem is usually caused when the transfer solenoid/valve assembly goes bad, it's located in the transmission extension housing & needs to be replaced. it can be done without removing the transmission.
SOURCE: after changing the spark plugs on my car the check engine light came on. Why?
.044 should be.
SOURCE: I have a 1997 Subaru Legacy Outback AWD. The
when you replaced the plugs , was one of them (cylinder 1 ) dirty and fouled ?
I'm thinking that bad rings in cylinder would give you low compression , and eventualy cause the missfire by fouling up the plug.
There is an inexpensive product that will help with the compression by filling up scratches in the cylinder walls. It is called Restore , and it is one of the only products of its type that I have used , and feel actually works.
Unfortunately , if your rings are broken , or badly worn , nothing in a bottle will fix them.
If your car had a distributor cap and rotor , I would change them too.
SOURCE: My `93 subaru legacy 2.2 turns over but won`t start
Could be as simple as a new rotor and distributer cap. As the rotor and contacts inside the cap wear, it will take more and more revolutions to get it to catch.
SOURCE: '97 subaru legacy L,AWD wagon, 2.2L, auto trans.
Do you hear a 'click' when the key is turned to start? Have someone try the key while you listen under the hood. It should be the starter solenoid clicking. You need either a test light or voltmeter to test further. One large terminal on the solenoid has the large wire from the battery positive, and should always show voltage/light at all times. Test the other side of the solenoid (large terminal) that is connected to the terminal on the starter motor. It should show light/voltage when the key is turned. If it doesn't, the solenoid must be replaced. If it does show light/voltage, then the starter motor is defective (probably brushes). If you get no click when turning the key, test the small terminal on the solenoid, you should see a voltage/light change when the key is turned. If you see a change, but no click, the solenoid coil is open or the case of the solenoid is not grounding where it is mounted. Try loosening the mounting and re-tighten. If no help, replace the solenoid. If you see no change at the small terminal, remove the wire from it and using a spare piece of wire, touch the small terminal to, first, the large terminal that the battery is connected to, then to the the mounting bolt for the solenoid. If the solenoid is good, the starter should operate with one of these two tests. In that case, the starter position of key switch is open--replace the ignition switch.
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