Bought 6 weeks ago, supposedly engine rebuilt as. 2 days ago began to clatter like a can of nuts & bolts. Best guess so far: thrown rod. Likely cost? Pro mechanic rebuilt his sis' car. Seemed up & up. Said 500 mi on new engine. I added 900 more. Reamed or screwed???

You will need to have it towed
& a professional strip the entire
front of the motor,that along takes all day

Expensive repair for sure

No way to know how much is worn or
damaged until it is apart or the cost
of the repairs

Doesn't sound good,might check the flywheel bolts,if they are loose the noise sounds like a rod knock.

That is not a stock setup, the orig threaded bolt hole must have been damaged.

no, i am guessing you bought a rebuilt starter,in many cases they strip out if its a new starter return it if not you will have to remove it and heli coil it .

Check engine light has to be scanned to see what is causing it. The problem causing it is probably stored in the car's computer. Get it scanned at autozone or a similar place, they usually do this for free. Not likely a CEL would be thrown for fluids being low.

I guess you'd like to remove the CV axel to change it? The axels acan be bought rebuilt or new for almost the same price. Auto prts ctores should have them in stock or get them in one day. Less than 50 for rebuilt and about 70 or less for new. They come with purchaser lifetime warrentee. bothe rebuilt and new the rebuilt one you need to take the core back as it might cost 60 or more or bring the old one with you. With the car jacked up and the wheels removed from the frount remove the cotter pin and the keeper from the front axel retaining nut and remove the nut it's a big one 1 3/16 inch and turn it off with your 1/2 inch air impac gun that'll hit at leasest 450 LBs/ Touque. If you don't have this tool take the car to someone that does. Remove the two bolts that hold the lower ball joint tot he lower control arm 17MM headed the same 1/2 air impac takes them out too. With a long iron bar pry the lower control arm down, you may have to smack it with a hammer to get it loose, pull the steering knuckle ( the break and rotor assembly) out and back and pust the axel out of the hub as you pull the steering knuckle back take care as to not pull the break hose too far but it's long enough to get the axel out. by pass the pused aside steering knuckel and pull the axel out of the trans. You might have to pry it out..The passenger side takes a little more doing as it has a carrier bearing bolted to the back of the block of the engine that has to be removed and a bracket that's bolted to it as well. with the carrierbearing free of the engine this axel with the steering knuckle pulled aside pulls right out no prying.

NISSAN STANZA WAGON - Manual Transmission

Q. Where is the starter on a 1986 nissan stanza station wagon and how do you get to it ?

Due to limited access to the starter, it is recommended that the transaxle be removed when servicing the starter.

REMOVAL:

1. Cold vehicle.

Remove 2 mounting bracket bolts, 10 & 12 mm (Figure 1).

Remove top starter motor bolt 14 mm with universal & long extensions.

Raise vehicle on hoist.

Remove front splash pans 10 mm.

Automatic transmission: Drain 2 qts out.

Remove rt-ft wheel 21 mm., & tie rod (Figure 3), axle cap, cotter pin, adj-nut & rubber washer.

Remove ball joint nuts 17 mm., left lower control arm 19mm. & swaybar bracket 14 mm. (Fig 2).

Remove axle nut 36mm (Figure 4), the front tube, catalytic converter heat insulators 10mm, ctr ex-tube 17 mm., and front tube from exhaust system (Figure 5).

Remove long bolt from ft engine mount (next to radiator), 17mm socket (Figure 6, Item A).

Remove tension rod mount 14 mm. Has adj-bracket with rubber insulators (Fig 6, Items B, C).

Remove right side drive shaft bolts that hold shaft to bracket mounted on engine (Fig7) 12mm.

Remove rt-driveshaft.

CAUTION: Transaxle side seals are cut by spline teeth.

Install hoist type transmission jack and wooden block under the transmission/engine. Be certain the transmission is safely balanced on the hoist.

Remove 5 engine crossmember mounts (3 bolts, 2 nuts) 14mm.

Remove nut that attaches crossmember to engine mount.

Loosen stabilizer bar mounts to allow adequate clearance for crossmember to be removed.

Remove following brackets to allow starter assembly to pass through bottom:

tubular support bracket - engine to transaxle

angled support bracket - driveshaft bracket to engine mount

manifold collector stay - (bottom bolts)

Loosen top bolts, remove bracket above driveshaft-holding bracket 14mm.

NOTE: This bracket is slotted to allow it to slide out without completely removing the bolts.

Remove bottom starter motor mounting bolt.

Separate starter assembly from bellhousing, DC all cables/connectors, remove starter motor.

When installing starter, connect cable, install/torque starter bolts.

55-60 foot pounds

The connecting rod bearing cap nut on a four cylinder is 40 ft-lbs. The cylinder head bolts are torqued in four steps.1-45 ft-lbs 2-65 ft-lbs 3-65 ft-lbs 4 1/4 additional turn after reaching torque specification. On the V-6 & V-8 the connecting rod cap nuts at 45 ft-lbs and the headbolts are torqued in two steps 1-50 ft-lbs and 2-105 ft-lbs. Hope this will help you.

O man! You have a major prob!!! The head is warped, will need to be machined, and the list goes on!! If you want to keep this car do consider a rebuilt engine. That is the most frugal way to solve your prob! Sorry Frankster016