As reported before, there is no power in interior,vehicle will not start.,battery is fully charged. there is 12 volts at battery , and at starter relays bottom terminai,no voltage at top terminal. voltage gauge in dash reads zero. checked 60 amp fuses under hood all are good.

Could be a bad connection, or the starter.
Have you checked to see if the starter is getting power when the key switch is in the start position ?

Battery is weak or bad. The clicking noise is the starter solenoid and is a result of...not enough power in the battery.

Sounds like a bad alternator. Drained your battery and when you turned on the lights it took all the power left in your battery. When you drain a battery down that far, they are real hard to jump, and coupled with the alternator, the car is not producing enough current to start and stay running.

I would take the alternator off and take it to oyur local auto parts store to be tested. If bad, replace it and charge the battery fully before starting. Then check voltage at battery with motor running. Should be 13.2 -14 Volts DC. If not, you may have a bad battery cable or blown fusible link. (especially that if the alternator tests good).....Mike

You have a electrical power shortage, when componets demand power it's not there [ that's why some componets slow or stop working ]. Start by cleaning the battery terminals and testing the battery to see if it holds a proper charge [ after fully charging, let the battery sit for a few hours and check the voltage = it should be at least 12 volts. If not, replace. Then check the output of the charging system = mininum of 13.8 volts to maxinum of 15.3 volts, & up to 78 ampress when @ maxinum charing. Then check the starter draw = should be around 260 amps, if it's higher then 300 amps. then replace.

Is your battery fully charged? Are your battery terminals clean and tight? Is the battery ground solid ... negative wire not damaged, not corroded and solidly fastened to the engine and body of the truck?

Is the "s" terminal the start terminal? Is that where you are reporting the 7 volts DC? Is there 12 volts on the other side of the solenoid? This 7 volts, you read this with the key turned to the vehicle 'start' position and the starter wold not turn over? Is this the terminal where the big cable goes to the starter? If yes, I would suggest there is an internal problem with the solenoid. To prove, with a battery jumper cable, jump one side to the other. IF YOU DO THIS - MAKE SURE THE TRUCK IS IN PARK OR NEUTRAL (STICK). THE STARTER MOTOR WILL TURN THE ENGINE OVER (AND IF A STICK AND IN GEAR, THE CAR WILL LEAP) BUT THE ENGINE WILL NOT RUN BECAUSE THE IGNITION IS OFF.

There is not much os a schematic needed to do this job. The cable runs from the battery to the start solenoid. With few exceptions, all power in the car comes off the battery side of the start solenoid. You will fins a sire that goes from this location to the fuse panel.

check if you're getting a 12 volt signal to the small wire going to your starter when you try to start it. And also 12 volt all the time to the big wire. if the small wire doesn't have 12, then I'd suspect the ignition switch, if both get 12, then it,s definitely the starter.

No power to starter circuit.The starter gets power from battery to start.So check the connection between battery to starter.As you mentioned battery is new ,but still get the battery voltage checked.It should be 12 volts if battery is fully charged.If battery shows 12 volt then check the connection terminal from battery to starter.If connection checked ok then its most probably the problem of faulty starter.It has to be replaced.But if the starter checked out ok by meter, then the problem relates to faulty ignition switch circuit causing this problem.Checking all this possibilities will rule out the exact faulty part causing the problem.----------Thanks.Helpmech.

1. Starter issue.

2. Alternator bad.

if the battery is less than 12 volts then the proper way to condem it is to first charge it up then test it. Sometimes other things can cause a battery to drain. But if you have 3 to 4 years on the battery and with this onset of cold temperatures, this is when batteries usually fail

A 12 volt battery is actually 13.2 volts fully charged. If you are reading 16 volts, you are probably getting extranious voltage from the system somewhere, especially if the vehicle is running when you check the voltage. The alternator will put out about 15-18 volts to charge the battery normally, and yours may put out 28-32 volts to charge them in series, but the batteries, when disconnected, should never read more than about 13.2 volts each. Typically, it will read about 12 1/2 volts when disconnected. COMPLETELY DISCONNECT BOTH OF THE BATTERIES. If you still read 16 volts when it is disconnected, you must have a bad meter because the battery can't produce that much voltage, no matter what. (Six 2.2 volt cells connected in series inside the case.) Put the meter on a known good battery on another car that is not running and see if you get the same reading. It sounds like the other battery is almost dead, regardless, and it sounds like your series/parallel switch may be malfunctioning. (That is the switch that puts the battery in series to run the 24 volt starter, then puts the batteries in parallel to run the remainder of the vehicle on 12 volts. This is all assuming that you have a diesel vehicle with a 24 volt starter and that is why you have two batteries.