08 honda pilot-cupping tire wear on rear drivers side. told camber off 1 degree. told cant be adjusted-- do i need to replace the rear arm (looks like tie rod) with an adjustable arm (Expensive) or a bolt (camber bolt kit) (cheap)? also the shop weve had it at cant find eather part

no vehicle make model. year supplied so the answer is generic but applies to most vehicles toe in is 1/8 -1/4 inch
caster 1 to 1 1/2 degrees and camber 1/2 2 degrees ( all measurements are positive
tire wear is the best guide to wrong alignment
wear on the inside or outside of the tire tread is alignment and toe -in
in the middle or on the outsides of the tread is pressure problems
wheel wobble at speeds ( 30mph up ) is castor adjustment, loose tie rod ends , ball joints and if the castor is approaching negative setting , will, not recenter the wheel after cornering
I suggest that you take the vehicle to an accredited suspension/ wheel alignment shop with experience on your make of vehicle and have it inspected
good shops will recommend that the rear is checked/ adjusted first as much front tire wear can be traced to the back being out

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We have no info like that

We are at home & use the site-- the same as you do

Cupping is usually caused by faulty shock or struts. Camber that is out of specification will cause uneven wear from inside to outside of tire. The shop should supply you with a printout of where your measurements are currently and what they should be. Can you send a good picture of the tires tread?

Before making wheel alignment adjustment, perform the following checks:

1. Tires should be equal in size and runout must not be excessive. Tires and wheels should be in balance, and inflated to manufacturer's specifications.


2. Wheel bearings must be properly adjusted. Steering linkage and suspension must not have excessive looseness. Check for wear in tie rod ends and ball joints.
3. Steering gear box must not have excessive play. Check and adjust to manufacturer's specifications.
4. Vehicle must be at curb height with full fuel load and spare tire in vehicle. No extra load should be on vehicle.
5. Vehicle must be level with floor and with suspension settled. Jounce front and rear of vehicle several times and allow it to settle to normal curb height.
6. If steering wheel is not centered with front wheels in straight-ahead position, correct by shortening one tie rod adjusting sleeve and lengthening opposite sleeve equal amounts.
7. Ensure wheel lug nuts are tightened to torque specifications

Ride Height Adjustment

Before adjusting alignment, check riding height. Riding height must be checked with vehicle on level floor and tires properly inflated. Passenger and luggage compartments must be unloaded. Bounce vehicle several times, and allow suspension to settle. Visually inspect vehicle from front to rear and from side to side for signs of abnormal height.
Measure riding height. See figure. Riding height between left and right sides of vehicle should vary less than 1′ (25.4 mm). If riding height is not within specification, check suspension components and repair or replace them as necessary.
Wheel Alignment Procedures

Honda recommends using commercially available computerized 4-wheel alignment equipment. Follow equipment manufacturer instructions to obtain vehicle alignment settings. Use following procedures for necessary adjustments.
Civic Camber Adjustment
Compare camber settings with vehicle manufacturer recommendations. If camber is incorrect, check for bent or damaged front suspension components. Replace faulty components. Recheck camber.
Civic Caster Adjustment
DO NOT use more than 2 shims. If more than 2 shims are required to adjust caster angle, check for bent or damaged suspension components.
Compare caster settings with vehicle manufacturer recommendations. If caster is incorrect, check for bent or damaged front suspension components. Replace faulty components. Recheck caster.
Civic Toe-In Adjustment

1. Secure steering wheel in straight-ahead position. Measure front wheel toe-in. If adjustment is needed, loosen tie rod lock nuts. Turn both tie rods equally in the same direction until front wheels are in straight-ahead position and toe-in reading is correct. Tighten tie rod lock nuts. Reposition tie rod boots if twisted.
2. Ensure parking brake is released. Check rear wheel toe-in. If adjustment is needed, hold adjusting bolt on rear compensator arm and loosen lock nut. See figure. Adjust rear toe-in by sliding rear control arm until rear toe-in is correct. Install NEW lock nut, and tighten it while holding adjusting bolt.

Wheel Alignment Specifications

• Camber - Measurement in degrees.
  • Front: 0 (range -1 to 1)
  • Rear: 0.33 (range -1.33 to 0.67)
• Caster - Measurement in degrees.
  • 1.17 (range 0.17 to 2.17)
• Toe-In - Measurement in inches (mm).
  • Front: -0 (0)
  • Rear: 0.08 (2.0)
• Toe-In - Measurement in degrees.
  • Front: 0.00 (range - 0.16 to 0.16)
• Toe-Out On Turns - Measurement in degrees.
  • Inner: 41.00
  • Outer: 33.50

Torque Specifications Ft. Lbs (N.m)

• Rear Control Arm Adjusting Bolt: 48 (65)
• Spindle Nut: 136 (185)
• Tie Rod Lock Nut: 41 (55)
• Wheel Lug Nuts: 80 (108)

hope this helps you out.

Replace the control arms, the tie rod ends and then get an alignment done. Your parts are all too worn out to properly align.

2.5 degrees negative camber is not within spec. You need new control arms in the rear. These will set your camber back to the factory setting and reduce your tire wear on the inner edge. The first shop you went to is correct, the camber cannot be adjusted, components must be replaced to rectify the excessive camber. Ive done a couple of New Style C70 rear control arms for this very reason, if your vehicle is under warranty however, the dealer needs to be able to prove that the car needs it. So if you dont have wear on your tires and when the toe was set it readjusted the camber (when you adjust toe it affects camber and caster measurements) then they cant prove to Volvo that it needs the control arms. I hope this helps

was your car in a wreck since you have own it?
that would be the only way anyone could bend steering or suspension parts.if your tires are leaning out on top,
it would be a part called"lower control arm assembly",
if you stand in front of your car with the steering wheel straight,and your tires are pointing in on each side,or pointed out instead of straight,that would be a "tie rod "
there is an inner tie rod and an outer tie rod end.
you need to take your car to a shop that does alignments,and have them tell you exactly what is wrong,you can even get lower control arm assemblies
from a salvage yard.but do yourself a favor and don't take your car to a MONROE or MIDAS type shop,they are only there to sell and make commissions! Find a normal shop that the owner is the mechanic.

REAR WHEEL ALIGNMENT
TOE-IN : 0±2 mm (0±0.08 in.)
1. The rear suspension lower arm mounting cam bolt should be turned an equal amount on both sides during adjustment. Right wheel : Clockwise direction : toe-in Left wheel : Clockwise direction : ton-out Maximum difference between LH and RH : 3mm 2. The cam bolt should be adjusted within a 90° range left or right from the center position. CAMBER Standard value : 0°±30´ Maximum difference between LH and RH : 3mm : 0±2 mm (0±0.08 in.) 1. The rear suspension upper arm mounting cam bolt should be turned an equal amount on both sides during adjustment. 2. Install the left and right springs which have the same identification color. 3. The cam bolt should be adjusted within a 90° range left and right from the center position. TIRE WEAR 1. Measure the tread depth of the tires. Tread depth of tire [Limit] : 1.6 mm (0.06 in.) 2. If the remaining tread depth is less than the limit, replace the tire. When the tread depth of the tire is reduced to 1.6 mm (0.06 in.) or less, the wear indicators will appear.

Your situation is not not abnormal. Since you can't rotate due to different sizes front & rear & they are high performance "Y" speed rated tires 30K is really pretty good