SOURCE: the radiator keeps boiing, even after a short trip
I find it hard to imagine how these two problems could be related, so I'll start with the over-heating problem. The next time the engine is cold, remove the radiator cap and make sure that the coolant/water is up to the neck of the radiator. As you may have a blown head gasket or cracked head, starting the car now may spray lots of coolant out of the radiator. If it does, that's why it's overheating, but it may also now have a blown head gasket because it overheated. If the level in the radiator has gone down a little once you started the car (normal), you have to check some other things. With the engine still idling, top-up the coolant and replace the radiator cap fully. As the temperature on the gauge rises, check the temperature of the top hose by holding it. This should remain cold for a while, then warm all of a sudden as the thermostat opens. If it doesn't, and the hose remains cold even thought the gauge says it's warmed up, you possibly have a thermostat that's jammed shut. Otherwise, continue. The pressure in the top hose should still be fairly low and the hose easy to squeeze. Once the engine reaches the indicated normal operating temperature, you'll probably have to wait another few minutes for the thermofan to come on. This should switch off after 1 to 2 minutes and when the gauge has come back to normal. If it doesn't switch on and the temp continues to rise, you'll need a new switch, relay or cooling fan (or combination of). If it remains on, and the temperature doesn't come back to normal, you possibly have an internally blocked radiator. This should be serviced professionally - not just reverse flushed, but dis-assembled and the cores physically cleaned out. I would also recommend replacing the thermostat now no matter what turns out to be the cause. Remember, DO NOT remove the cap again until the engine is cold as water above 100 deg C will boil instantly you remove the cap (lower the pressure). Good luck.
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