I would like to remove the ALA990K ignition disabler from my 2001 Saturn SL. It is not functioning correctly and I having a hard time starting the car after entering personal code. Since all Saturn dealers are out of business, is there an easy way for it to remove or disabled it? Do I need to go to a repair shop or can simply cut the wires from ALA99K to the ignition? Thank you, lou
Re: I would like to remove the ALA990K ignition disabler...
The wires from the ignition switch probably has this spliced into them. Remove/cut ALA990k out of harness and match the same color wires and splice them back together.
the problem is not the bcm. the passlock security sensor is in the cylinder and housing, if the cyl and or housing was replaced the system must be relearned. if you replace the bcm you still need to relearn the system or it still will not start.
It is a chain and its not the easiest but it could be worse.It is as follows: 1.9L SOHC Engine
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
Drain the engine oil.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Negative battery cable
Right front wheel and splash shield
NOTE: Place a 1 in. x 1 in. x 2 in. long block of wood between the torque strut and cradle to ease removal and installation of the torque engine mount.
3 right side upper engine torque axis to front cover nuts and the 2 mount to midrail bracket nuts, allowing the powertrain to rest on the block of wood
Drive belt, tensioner and pulley
Power steering pump attaching bolts and set the pump to the side with the lines still attached
A/C compressor from the bracket and set aside with the lines attached
Camshaft cover
Using a strap wrench or a piece of wood wedged between the damper spoke and the lower side of the engine front cover, hold the damper and remove the bolt. With a suitable 3-jaw puller and the slots cast into the damper, pull the crankshaft damper/pulley assembly from the crankshaft.
Install the special oil seal replacement tool SA9104E, to be sure the front crankshaft timing sprocket is held firmly in place and prevent guide damage. Install with the flat side towards the crankshaft sprocket.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Front 4 oil pan bolts and cut the seal away from the front cover
Front cover bolts and carefully pry the cover away from the cylinder block at the pry location tabs, which are provided. Remove the cover from under the hood or through the wheel well
Front cover oil seal from the cover
NOTE: During timing chain and sprocket removal, position the crankshaft 90 degrees past Top Dead Center (TDC), to be sure the pistons will not contact the valves upon assembly.
Carefully rotate the crankshaft clockwise so the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket and keyway align with the main bearing cap split line (90 degrees past TDC).
Remove or disconnect the following:
Timing guides and tensioner
Camshaft sprocket bolt, using a 7⁄8 in. (21mm) wrench to hold the camshaft. Then, remove the timing chain and camshaft sprocket
Crankshaft sprocket
To install:
Inspect the chain for wear and damage. Check the inside diameter of the chain, it should be no more than 16.77 in. (426mm). Inspect the chain guides for wear or cracks and the timing sprockets for teeth or key wear. Replace components as necessary.
Verify that the crankshaft keyway is positioned 90 degrees clockwise past TDC (keyway at 3 o'clock). The keyway should align with the split between the bearing cap and engine block.
Bring the camshaft up to No. 1 TDC by loosely installing the sprocket and rotating the sprocket until the timing pin can be inserted. The camshaft contains wrench flats to assist in turning the shaft. The dowel pin should be at 12 o'clock when the camshaft is at TDC.
Install the crankshaft sprocket, then rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise 90 degrees up to No. 1 TDC (keyway at 12 o'clock).
Position the chain under the crankshaft sprocket and over the camshaft sprocket. The timing chain should be positioned so that 1 silver link plate aligns with the reference mark on the camshaft sprocket and the other aligns with the downward tooth (at the 6 o'clock position) on the crankshaft sprocket. The letters FRT on the camshaft sprocket must face forward, away from the cylinder head and excess chain slack should be located on the tensioner side of the block.
Install or connect the following:
Timing pin to verify proper alignment of the camshaft and sprocket. Torque the sprocket bolt to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
NOTE: Do not allow the camshaft retaining bolt to torque against the timing pin or cylinder head damage will result.
Timing chain guides with the words FRONT facing out. Install the fixed guide first and verify the chain is snug against the guide, then install the pivot guide. Torque the bolts to 19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm) and verify that the pivot guide moves freely
Retract the tensioner plunger and pin the ratchet lever using a 1⁄8 in. No. 31 drill bit inserted in the alignment hole at the bottom front of the component
Tensioner. Torque the bolts to 14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm), then remove the drill bit
Make one final check to verify all components are properly timed, then remove all timing pins.
Install or connect the following:
Seat a new front cover oil seal using the installation tool with a press
If the engine front cover casting or assembly is replaced, the 3 torque axis mount studs should also be replaced. Torque the new studs to 19 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
drain the engine oil.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Negative battery cable
Right front wheel and splash shield
NOTE: Place a 1 x 1 x 2 in. (25 x 25 x 51mm) block of wood between the torque strut and cradle to ease removal and installation of the torque engine mount.
3 right side upper engine torque axis to front cover nuts and the 2 mount to midrail bracket nuts, allowing the powertrain to rest on the block of wood
Drive belt, tensioner and pulley
Power steering pump attaching bolts and set the pump to the side with the lines still attached
A/C compressor from the bracket and set it to the side with the lines attached
Camshaft cover
Using a strap wrench or a piece of wood wedged between the damper spoke and the lower side of the engine front cover, hold the damper and remove the bolt. With a suitable 3-jaw puller and the slots cast into the damper, pull the crankshaft damper/pulley assembly from the crankshaft.
Install the special oil seal replacement tool SA9104E or equivalent, to be sure the front crankshaft timing sprocket is held firmly in place and prevent guide damage. Install with the flat side towards the crankshaft sprocket.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Front 4 oil pan bolts and cut the seal away from the front cover
Front cover bolts and carefully pry the cover away from the cylinder block at the pry location tabs, which are provided. Remove the cover from under the hood or through the wheel well
Front cover oil seal from the cover
NOTE: During timing chain and sprocket removal, position the crankshaft 90 degrees past top Dead Center (TDC), to be sure the pistons will not contact the valves upon assembly.
Carefully rotate the crankshaft clockwise so the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket and keyway align with the main bearing cap split line (90 degrees past TDC).
Timing guides and tensioner
Camshaft sprocket bolt, using a 7⁄8 in. (21mm) wrench to hold the camshaft. Then, remove the timing chain and camshaft sprocket
Mine was doing same, but also revving up weird. I replaced the Crankshaft position sensor and it didnt work. Today I changed the Engine coolant temp sensor and it fixed my problem. Hope this helps!!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Turn the ignition switch to the on position( do not start) leave on for 20 minutes, turn it of, Repeat this tree times, the start the car and it should reset the factory security system that's enabled
the theft system is part of the main computer, you will need to change the ignition lock and get a key to remedy the issue, unfortunately there is not an alarm kill
Alot of the time the anti theft security can actually disable your starter. Check to see if there is a light on the dash that says SECURITY or a little picture of a car with a lock thru it. This would be a dead give away of the security problem. Check out this link for info and DO IT YOURSELF solutions to this problem.
Hello: The number one injector could be stuck open. to check you will have to remove fuel rail with injectors attached, energize fuel pump with key off and see if #1 injector drips/sprays fuel. YOU COULD ALSO SWAP #1 AND #2 injector and see if the misfire goes to #2 cylinder.
I went to a garage to have a problem fix, and since that time,my cut starter does not work any more,Idon't see any ligth on,Idont know what they did,And I am to far from that garage.I would like what I have to look,before spending money to a garage. Thank you. Gérard Ponton
you may have a failed ignition lock cylinder, the only for sure way to know is to take the car to a gm dealer and have them diag the car. (read the code) You can not bypass the theft system it controls fuel and ignition control module. If you have an independent repair shop with a scanner that can read a saturn control module it might be cheaper. The parts you will need tor replace isa lock cylinder new key and have the new lock cylinder coded
FIRST YOU NEED TO KNOW WHAT IS CAUSING THE PROBLEM, (1) THE IGNITION OR (2) A FUEL PROBLEM. GRAB A CAN OF STARTING FLUID FROM YOUR LOCAL AUTO PARTS STORE (BE CAREFULL USING TO MUCH OF THIS FLUID) IS TO TEST ONLY. SPRAY LIKE A ONE SECOND SPRAY AT THE AIR FILTER INLET PIPE AND TRY STARTING IT, IF IT STARTED YOU HAVE A FUEL PROBLEM IF IT DINT START THEN YOU'RE OKAY ON THE FUEL SIDE, JUMP TO THE NEXT ITEM WHICH IS THE IGNITION. REMOVE ONE SPARK PLUG WIRE AND STINCK A SCREW DRIVER ON THE WIRE AND LET THE SCREW DRIVER LEAN ON METAL TO MAKE GROUND CONTACT, TRY STARTING IT AND CHECK FOR SPARK. IF IT SPARKED GOOD CHECK THE OTHER 3 WIRES AND EITHER ONE FUEL OR THE IGNITION IS THE PROBLEM UNLESS YOUR TIMING CHAIN BROKE,. LET ME KNOW
×