AWD problem? Maybe, it depends on whether your car is a manual or automatic.
Manual: clicking and rattling is commonly bearing wear in the transfer case. There's three bearings that have to replaced. The transfer case can be removed without taking the transmission out.
Automatic: The car is normally front wheel drive, and sensors control the transfer case (NOT the same as the manual) AWD clutches to connect the rear drive. This clutch system may be the issue. The symptom is more commonly a grinding sound when turning.
HOWEVER ...
The knocking /clicking sound you feel in the steering wheel is the important diagnostic. This is often caused by a worn front axle INNER CV joint. What happens is the wear makes the CV jam as it rotates. Wear can result in steering wheel shimmy, similar to an out of balance wheel/tire.
It can also result in heavy steering on turns. It's simple to check. Jack up each front wheel, and check for rotational slop between the axle and the CV carrier on the transmission. Anything more than 2mm means youneed new axles.
SOURCE: cv joint for a 1992 subaru legacy
Ok here's a couple helpfuls before i start if you have PB Blaster, that works great on spindle bolts. Another thing you will need is a long pry bar (maybe a crowbar if you had to) with a flat tapered end. You will need to remove your tire, spray the PB Blaster on the axle nut, and the 2 spindle bolts going through the strut.remove the axle nut, and the 2 spindle bolts, and seperate the strut from the spindle. Then swing the spindle and push down on it as you remove the axle spline from the hub. Once you do that, check the transmission side of the axle, to see if it has a "doul roll pin" that you need to tap out with a hammer and punch, but it may be the simple locking ring internaly at the end of the splined shaft. Then all you do is pry it back, make sure you have a very firm place to use for leverage, and give it a hard shove and it should pop right out. or you may need to repeat the prying step a few times. When installing the new axle, make sure it's snapped in completely on the transmission side so you don't damage it. Then all you need to do is reassemble it all.
Also when doing this, make sure you support the car by the body, behind the front wheel under the fender/door area. you will need to let the lower controal arm hang to do this.
Hope that does it for you,
Good luck!
SOURCE: Subaru Forester window air leak
Just replace the door seals around windows. I never heard of replacing the windows
SOURCE: 93 Subaru Legacy front suspension problem after CV joint replaced
the air bag is not ok, this is exactly what they do when they have a leak, these air bags are shot at about 100,000 miles, they start to leak at the creases, u will see cracks there.
SOURCE: 2002 subaru forester first CV joint now hub and bearing?
They should've checked everything when they had it apart for the CV...Go somewhere else (NOT THE DEALER) and have the work done. Estimate ($135-175)
SOURCE: I need yo know how to replace the cv joint and
remove axle nut,seperate balljoint from control arm,usually a good whack with a hammer on the control arm near the balljoint will free it,pry control arm down to remove knuckle assy, remove roll pin from inner axle joint now you can remove axle,most of the time the inner joint boot tears this is called the d-o-j {double offset joint} replace this boot as well,my suggestion is consider replacing axle with reman depending on mileage 100k or more.remember when reinstalling axle splines need to be lined up on inner shaft so roll pin goes in without problem good luck
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