Howdy Grichards360,
Not knowing the AGE of your AC only makes it a wee
bit harder to speculate... (good news though)...
INTERMITENT operation = cheap & easy.
SUFFICE it to say REALLY EXPENSIVE issues
are like HATE & UGLY... They stay (and accumulate).
My BEST GUESS is your system pressure is
right at the THRESHOLD where designers
have CORRECTLY (even mercifully) decided it is
marginal enough not to USELESSLY operate the
components at all...
An ideal time (and stable enough system) to
"top-up" your refrigerant charge... (see below)
unless you live in CALIFORNIA ... you should easily be able to purchase a kit to accomplish this TASK yourself.
Two CAUTIONS here:
1). Refrigerants can be quite dangerous...
(read & heed precautions (especially refrigerant TYPE)).
2). "Top-Up" is a STUNT... Proper maintenance would
dictate a serious consideration be given to PROPER
lubrication. If this is the first time in 10 or 15years you will
PROBABLY be fine...
(ELSE: study up or comment back).
Hope this helps
Carnac the Magnificent
SOURCE: 2000 Subaru Outback transmission problem
After a good deal of research and several shops suggesting a rebuild of the transmission, I decided to have the trans fluid and filters changed before doing anything. It was a tough call because it could have been a waste of $125. As soon as the spin off filter was removed you could see it was blocked. So the hydraulic pressure in the system was way down, still enough to engage reverse and enough to work all the shifts, but not enough to engage forward without a slight tap on the accelerator.
My Subaru has 240 000 km on it and I suppose the clutch pack rebuild wouldn't hurt, but as it is now it engages quickly and shifts up are noticeably smoother.
May not be the solution for every case, but it solved my situation.
does it click while reversing straight or while turning? Sounds like a stick shift. Lunging probably due to e-brake needing adjustment(if stick shift). If your car only clicks while turning in reverse you need new front axles and can probably drive that way for a while
SOURCE: 2000 Subaru Outback
It sounds as if you have a brake or c.v. joint problem. If you haven't checked your brakes check them first (cheapest to repair). Ifbrakes are fine c.v. joints are most likely the problem. When checking brakes if doing yourself check inner and outer pads as well as rotors for scoring. Good Luck.
SOURCE: When turning on my Subaru Legacy outback 2003, the
the problem is most likely in the alternator or possably the voltage regulator of the alternator, it is an easy test to run and is done for free at most automotive stores, when the alternator is cold there may be commontator and brush contact issues. the test when it is cold is you can put a voltage testor on the battery and have the scar started cold. the voltage should not drop below 10v f it does have the battery load tested. as soon as the car starts then see if the voltage is around 14.3 or so, if it is below 14 then the alternator or regulator are bad. if it is jumping all over like ya know 12, 15, 7, 14 then the regulator is bad. have them double checked and replaced.
SOURCE: My 1997 Subaru Legacy wagon
It could be the relay, But I don't think you have one, most starters are direct wired from the key to a solenoid on the starter, If there is a relay, it is the big fuse box under the hood, and is just a electric switch, not subject to cold. It sounds more like the terminals are filthy and the contacts are not connecting. Clean off all the wires with a wire brush and scrub the terminals with it, get underneath the connections too. Where the battery cables connect to the lead terminals, If I was up there I would be plugging in my car at night to keep it warm. It will start right up in the morning.
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