SOURCE: excessive fuel consumption
I could recommend a product I use on my own cars called SeaFoam. You can buy it at most autoparts stores like PepBoys and what it does is clean out alot of the carbon buildup, which improves gas milage and gets the engine running like new. Just follow the instructions on the back.
SOURCE: 2003 GMC Duramax Diesel won't start
I see that you had the injectors replaced 20,000 miles ago. I would still check the oil to make sure it is not overfull. The new injectors could be bad. If the oil level is not overfull then get a paper towel and touch the dip stick tip on the paper towel while oil is on the dip stick. If it's only oil it will not spread. If it has diesel in the oil the oil with spread. If this test doesn't show the injectors to be bad then you have three other possibilities. The FICM (fuel injection control module), the fuel pressure regulator, or the injection pump. It's hard to pinpoint what the problem is without running more tests and the only way to run those tests is with the computer the dealership has. Just so you know your injectors are still under warranty until 100,000 miles. Most likely you will have to take it to the dealership to get you truck fixed. I hope this helps you some.
SOURCE: Renault Laguna 2.2 diesel cutting out and difficulty starting
Hi, I had the same fault on my Laguna 1.9dci. you have a faulty injector. possible one or more. changed one on mine and it got better but then a second had to be done, now problem completely gone.
SOURCE: Toyota Surf Diesel starting problem
Injectors could be blocked but i would go with an injector pump or fuel pump.
SOURCE: 1999 Chrsler Sebring LXi v6 2.5L. Car dies.
I had the same problem with my 1999 Chrysler Sebring 2.5L V6 Convertable. It started stalling at intersections; would lose RPMs' and die while driving it; and would not start unless it sat for a few minutes. Once it started, you'd have the scenario start all over again...
I hadn't kept up my maintenance schedule like I usually do, so I did the usual; I replaced my spark plugs and wires, changed the oil and filters, ect...
Finally, after it doing the same thing and wasting a ton of time and frustration on the side of the road, I took it to a mechanic that put it on his $9,000 diagnostic machine. The verdict; CRANK SHAFT POSITION SENSOR!
The Haynes Manual will tell you wrong on its location for the 1999 Lxi 2.5L V6 convertable; it is NOT LOCATED BEHIND THE BATTERY TRAY. The crankshaft position sensor is actually located about 4 to 6 inches below the distributor, which is about dead center of the motor, on the transaxle housing.
You do have to take off the tire and the skirt cover to get to it. I had to purchase two long socket extensions just to get to the bolt that mounts the sensor to the transaxle housing; but it was well worth the 20 bucks...
All in all, it took me three hours to find the damn thing, and then to figure out what I needed to take the old one off and get the new one installed.
The $65 dollars that I spent to find out what the problem was is worth it....
Now, the car runs better than ever....
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