Rear brake rotor heating up on 2008 awd edge. 60000 klms on vehicle. Removed wheel for inspection. Rotor moves but there is resistance to turning.

jack up and support vehicle -remove wheel -remove caliper -remove rotor can also look up for a video ---how to replace rear brakes saturn vue or equinox

It can be wheel out of balance,
warped brake rotor,worn brake pads hanging up, bad bearing , worn suspension components.
does it shake at all speeds? i would jack up the wheel from ground, first test wheel for wobbling and if yes bad bearings, then take of wheel and inspect brake pads for being really thin and use straight edge ruler, check rotor for straightness, either one replace pads and rotor. inspect strut for oil leakage, ect

Here is how I adjusted my parking brakes:
Jack rear of car up and place on jackstands (safety first) Take the rear wheel off, observe how freely rotor turns while turning by hand.
Align one of the lug bolt holes with the adjusting wheel inside. Mine was at alignied with one of the holes at the 2 o'clock position. Hold a flashlight into the hole to see what the tooth of the wheel inside looks like and insert a flat blade screwdriverthrough the hole and catch beetween 2 teeth.Start moving the screwdriver handle upward (tip of the screwdriver moving downward)to turn the adjusting wheel clockwise, do about 2 turns and turn the rotor to see if there is a slight resistance turning the rotors and adjust more or less depending on the resistance.You only want some slight resistance to much and it will drag all the time and wear out your parking brake pads prematurely

Those are special calipers. The piston cannot be just compressed back into the caliper - it needs to be turned as it is compressed or you can ruin the caliper.There is a kit you can rent from AutoZone or many independent auto parts stores that will perform both functions at the same time.
Block fron wheels and raise vehicle passenger side. Remove wheel. The caliper is on the top rear side of the assembly you're looking at.There are 2 long bolts you'll need to remove to take the caliper off the vehicle. Don't remove the brake line or open the bleeder screw ( either of these moves will add to your work!! ) Insert a large flat blade screwdriver in between the rotor and outboard brake pad and pry away from the vehicle slightly to release the pads from the rotor. Slide caliper upwards and towards the back of the vehicle to separate from rotor. The pads will come in a full set ( all 4 pads for both side of the rear ) . Look at your replacement pads and determine if they have a retainer clip holding them in place or a compression clip. Remove outboard pad first then inboard. Match old pads to replacement pads. Inspect rotor for grooves and irregular surfaces - if any grooves or irregularity present, remove rotor and take to an auto parts store for refinishing.Compress caliper piston with kit and allow 5 minutes for pressure to bleed back into the master cylinder.install rotor if removed and wipe surfaces with brake clean. Install inboard then outboard pad and place caliper on rotor, then mount to vehicle. Install wheel, repeat procedure for drivers side, then PUMP BRAKE PEDAL 5 TIMES BEFORE TRYING TO DRIVE VEHICLE to set pads on rotors.

Check this procedure about REMOVAL & INSTALLATION (see Figure 1)

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove 2 / 3 of the brake fluid from the brake reservoir using a clean syringe or equivalent.
3. Raise and safely support the vehicle with jackstands.
4. Mark the relationship of the wheel to the hub and bearing assembly.
5. Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
6. Remove the caliper and suspend it from the strut with a wire hook or suitable piece of wire. Do NOT disconnect the brake hose or allow the caliper to hang from the brake line!
   

If the original rotor is still on the vehicle, it may be retained with star washers, so you must remove and discard these retaining washers.

1. Remove the rotor assembly by sliding it off the hub. If it is stuck on, use penetrating oil and tap lightly until free.
   

Fig. 1: The rotor can be removed by sliding it straight off the lug studs

To install:

1. Install the brake rotor over the hub assembly.
2. Install the brake caliper as outlined in this section.
3. Install the wheel and tire assembly.
4. Carefully lower the vehicle. Tighten the wheel lug nuts to 100 ft. lbs. (136 Nm). If the lug nuts aren't tightened properly, the rotor will warp from heat, causing premature wear and noise.
5. Fill the master cylinder reservoir to the FULL level with the correct type of DOT 3 brake fluid from a clean, unsealed container.
6. Firmly depress the brake pedal three times before moving the vehicle.

Hope this helps (remember to rate this answer).

This vehical has drum styal park brake shoes on the inside of the brake rotor so make sure the park brake isn't set and you can turn the rotor. If you can't turn the rotor you will have to look into this first if the park brake is set or sticking you won't get the rotor off if thats ok try spray with penting oil helps a little. I use a 4 or 5 lb sluge hammer and hit the rotor kinds close to the wheel studs about 5 times then hit the outer edge from the back side also works on the outerside. Don't be afread to hit hard I never broke one.

Rear disc brake pads offer better performance and are not as affected by moisture like conventional brake shoe style brakes are. Rear disc brakes are similar to front disc brakes. The main difference is that rear disc brake systems must incorporate the emergency brake system. There are two methods widely used for the emergency brake with rear disc systems. The first system is a brake shoe inside the brake disc that is actuated by the emergency brake lever. The second is a screw style actuator inside the brake caliper. When activated the brake pads are forced into the brake disc and held tightly by the emergency brake lever.
READ COMPLETELY BEFORE STARTING
Step 1 - Identify Rear Disc Brake Components
Rear disc brake assembly includes; rear brake disc, rear brake pads, brake caliper mount and a caliper mounting screw. (Note: Some vehicles do not have the rotor mounting screw.)
Step 2 - Removing the Rear Brake Caliper Mount Bolts
To replace rear brake pads and rotors the rear brake caliper needs to be removed. First loosen the rear brake caliper mount bolts and remove them. Turn counter clockwise.
Step 3 - Lift Rear Brake Caliper from The Caliper Mount
After the caliper mount bolts have been removed, gently lift the brake caliper from the caliper mount. Inspect the caliper slides; they should move freely in the caliper mount. Remove rear brake pads and hardware.

Step 4 - Removing Caliper Mount Bolts
With a socket wrench or other appropriate removal tool, loosen the rear brake caliper mounting bolts. Remove bolts and lift the caliper mount and remove it from the vehicle. Remove the retaining screw from the disc mounting hole. Tap the rotor gently to release any rust that has accumulated between the rotor and bearing hub. Lift brake rotor from wheel hub holding on tightly, using both hands. You do not want to drop the rotor.

Step 5 - Removing Rear Brake Rotor
Remove the retaining screw from the disc mounting hole, tap the rotor gently to release any rust that has accumulated between the rotor and bearing hub. Lift brake rotor from wheel hub, hold on using both hands and do not drop.

Step 6 - Install New Brake Rotor
Check the new rotor against the old brake rotor to make sure they are the same size. Clean the mating surface on the wheel hub before the new brake rotor is installed. Reinstall rotor retainer screw.
Step 7 - Reset Rear Brake Caliper
Before new brake pads can be installed, the rear brake caliper must be reset. The reset tool winds the piston back into position so the new brake pads will fit. This style of brake caliper will not compress with a clamp tool; it can only be reset with the proper reset tool.
Step 8 - Reinstall Rear Caliper Mount and Install New Rear Brake Pads
After the caliper has been reset, reinstall caliper mounting bolts and make sure the bolts are tight. Then match up the old brake pads to the new brake pads. They should be exactly the same except, of course; the old ones will be worn out. Check the new brake pads for proper fit and install any brake hardware that is required.
Step 9 - Remount Rear Brake Caliper
Reinstall the brake caliper, align brake pad hardware and reinstall caliper mounting bolts. (Note: align the rear peg of the brake pad to the groove in the caliper piston.) Recheck and retighten all caliper and caliper mount bolts. Bleed brake system to relieve any air in the system. Before driving the vehicle, push the brake pedal down and let it up slowly. This operation forces the brake pads to travel to the brake rotors. DO NOT DRIVE VEHICLE until proper brake pedal operation resumes. When test driving vehicle listen for any unusual noises during the operation of the brakes.
WARNING! Always have the vehicle under inspection on level ground, in park with the emergency brake on. Always wear protective eyewear, gloves and necessary clothing before inspection or work begins. Never crank an engine over when anyone is near the battery or engine. Always have an operational fire extinguisher close by, obey all first aid instructions in the event of an injury. Never stand in front or behind a vehicle when cranked over or running. When engine is cranked over keep hands and clothing away from rotating components. Never move a car without proper brake pedal operation.

No, but I would replace the rotors. Turning them usually winds up getting them warped as soon as they heat up and/or you hit a puddle of water..also, you will need a torque wrench and standard automotive tools, Jack and stands and a vice..

1 Place the Transfer shift in the 2H position.
Raise and support the front of the vehicle safely on jackstands.
2 Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
3 Loosen the hub to rotor retainer bolts.
4 Remove the brake caliper mounting bolts and carefully remove the caliper (along with the brake pads) from the rotor. Do not disconnect the brake line. 5 Secure the caliper out of the way with the flexible line still connected.

Once the hub/rotor is removed from the vehicle the wheel bearings may be cleaned and repacked or the bearings and races may be replaced. For more information, please refer to the wheel bearing procedures in General Information & Maintenance of this manual.

6 Remove the hub nut using hub wrench J-29020-A or equivalent.
7 Remove the hub cap assembly retainer bolts.
8 Remove the spindle nut, washers, and other components. Remove the hub/rotor, being careful not to drop the outer wheel bearings. As the hub/rotor is pulled forward, the outer wheel bearings will often fall forward.
9 Once the hub/rotor is removed, remove the retainer bolts securing the rotor and hub together. Inspect the hub and replace if needed.

To install:
1 With the rotor secured in a vise, attach the wheel hub to the rotor using the retainer bolts. Tighten the bolts to 47-58 ft. lbs. (61-75 Nm). Apply 2.12 oz. (60 gm) of grease to the hub before installing.
2 Carefully install the wheel hub/rotor over the spindle.
3 Install the bearings washers and other components. 4 Position the lock washer so the hub cap assembly bolt holes line up properly.
5 Install the spindle washer and nut and secure using hub wrench J-29020-A or equivalent. Preload the bearing to 3.31 lbs. (1.5 kg).
6 Install the inner cam and any shims. Install the hub cap assembly and secure in place with retainer bolts. 7 Tighten grade M8 bolts to 17-22 ft. lbs. (22-29 Nm), tighten grade M10 bolts to 40-47 ft. lbs. (52-61 Nm).
8 Install the brake caliper.
9 Install the tire and wheel assembly.
10 Remove the supports and carefully lower the vehicle.

Inner, (Large), wheel bearing has failed. This has caused the grease seal to fail.
Solution is to replace the bearing, and seal.

1.Check the bearing race in the brake rotor. If any pits, scoring, or other evidence of break down is present, the bearing race must be replaced also.

2.Check the outer wheel bearing and bearing race also. The inner bearing receives the most wear, but cleaning, and inspection of both bearings, and races is a standard procedure.

3.Observe the area on the spindle where the grease seal contacts. Insure that the spindle area is of good repair, and no scoring is evident.

The Black residue that you observe is grease mixed with brake dust.

The vehicle must be jacked up in the front, with safety stands placed in the proper area on both sides. Wheel chocks should be used behind the rear tires. The vehicle should be on a flat hard surface.

The wheel/tire is removed, then the brake caliper. The caliper is not removed from the brake hose, but hung from a hanger device, from the frame of the vehicle. (Small rubber tie down strap? Wire clothes hanger?)

Then the dust cap is removed, cotter pin, and spindle nut. Ease the brake rotor out, be ready to catch the outer bearing. Remove the brake rotor.

Rotor laying on two small wood blocks, (2x4's? 4x4?), blocks under rotor face. (Where the brake pads rub against)
Blocks placed so area of grease seal is not resting on them. Rotor is laying on blocks with outside of rotor facing up. (Outside of rotor faces outside of Tahoe)

Take a long punch, and tap out the grease seal from the inside of the rotor. Through the hole where the spindle goes through. Be careful that the punch is resting on the metal ring of the seal, and not the bearing race edge.

You need to back off the hidden emergency brake shoes that contact the interior part of the rotor. Remove the rubber plug on the inside and rear part of the hub and use a screwdriver to back off the star wheel adjuster. Unless you do this, you'll never get the rotors off.
Hint: the secondary drum type emergency/parking brake shoes may need replacement